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Old 07-11-2011, 06:58 AM   #1
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Finally fixing the floor

Well, after years of talking about it, I finally started dismantling the bathroom in order to fix the standard-issue rear floor rot. (and of course, while I'm at it, this is the time to upgrade holding tanks).
I've been putting it off, waiting for the right combination of time and money to happen...and not wanting to take it off-line during camping season. I've finally accepted the fact that this simply isn't going to happen. gotta bite the bullet, accept that there ain't gonna be any camping for a while, and just get on with it.
Got the sink/lav out yesterday. (after a late start). no turning back now!

First question: how do I get the drains out of the sink and shower, without damaging the abs plastic?
I disconnected the sink via the slip-joint in the trap; It looks like the drain is threaded into the tailpiece...but I'm not sure. don't want to over-torque anything, and break the plastic.
I imagine that the drain itself is attached like an interior sink...plumber's putty, etc. how do you get that apart?
(I figure the drains need to be removed in order to paint/re-finish the fixtures).
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:03 AM   #2
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Congratulations!

Chuck,
Glad to hear you are getting started. It is always easier after you start removing things. We're all rooting for you!
As for the sinks, the bath sink has a normal bar sink drain. The ABS pipe threads onto the metal sleeve of the drain. I used some big channel lock pliers to get it apart. It took a bunch of grunting. I had the whole sink removed from the trailer before I took the drain out. It is all standard plumbing stuff.
Good luck!
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:08 PM   #3
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I got the pipe off ok. didn't take much torque at all...but what about the actual drain piece, itself? there's a nut on the underside that will (obviously) need to be removed--but will that be all that needs to be done?

on another note: whomever had this bathroom out the last time put it all back together using rivet washers. interesting...don't see them mentioned much here.
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Old 07-11-2011, 04:31 PM   #4
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Yes Chuck. There is a backing nut that holds the drain in place.

When I re-installed the bathroom, I used the rivet backing washers where plastic was riveted to plastic and I had access to the area. Now they have been mentioned twice here!
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:40 PM   #5
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I guess my concern is that the plumber's putty that they use to seal the base of a drain when they install it...does that set up like super-glue, or does the drain come out easy once you get that backing nut off?
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:30 PM   #6
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It is just a water sealant. It'll come right off.
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:36 PM   #7
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Of all the floor replacement threads I've read over the years, I've never been able to figure out one thing:

How do you cut the little bit of wood that under the c-channel? I can see cutting across the floor w/ a circular saw, until you get within an inch or 2 of the wall, and you can't go any further...you could cut the last inch with a hand-saw...but how do you get between the frame and the shell?
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:03 PM   #8
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Chuck,
Are you referring to the seams where the floor sheets butt together? If so, they are only attached together in between the main frame rails. There are a few staples on the outer edges of the joints holding the sheets together.
If not, a jig saw and a Dremel will do the trick. I used a coping saw in a few places for tight cuts.
Got any pics yet?
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:26 PM   #9
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No, because I wasn't planning on replacing the whole 4' wide sheet of floor. a: its only the last 8-12" thats bad. b: to get to the 4' mark, I'd have to gut 3/4 of the trailer.
So my thought was to just go up to the first cross member. (I'll have my welder/brother-in-law tack a piece of angle iron to the x-member, so there'll be a "nailer" for the new piece of floor).
So picture me taking a circular saw, setting it to 3/4" depth, and doing a plunge cut in the middle of the floor, and pushing across toward the wall....that shoe is going to bump into the wall and prevent me from cutting all the way to it...and then there'll be an inch and a half of wood sandwiched between the c-channel and the frame. how to cut through there?

(maybe it would be easier to just pull the bunks and cabinets out. but where to put them in the mean time?)
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:47 PM   #10
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I used a Porter-Cable Oscillating saw with a metal cutting blade. I removed the inside skin and removed the screws. Then I removed the plywood from the channel with a straight screwdriver. The plywood that wanted to stay in the channel I massaged out with the Porter-Cable saw.

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Old 07-12-2011, 06:57 PM   #11
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ah. I was thinking "one of those". my dad has the craftsman version.
my carpenter buddy has the fancy one...
You can't cut metal with those, though, can you? (screws...bolts, etc).
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
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ah. I was thinking "one of those". my dad has the craftsman version.
my carpenter buddy has the fancy one...
You can't cut metal with those, though, can you? (screws...bolts, etc).
There's a metal cutting blade for it. I tried to cut a screw with it. The problem was, it loosened the screw and then the screw just 1/4 turned with the saw stroke. The metal cutting blade went to no visible teeth in quite a hurry:-)

I like the saw. I use it quite often. It works good to undercut door jambs in remodel jobs too.
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Old 07-13-2011, 04:43 PM   #13
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Got any pics yet?
Almost forgot. "no pics--didn't happen"


Floor Project 2011 - Photo Gallery

looks pretty much like the south end of every other northbound 70's 'stream, undergoing the same project.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:20 PM   #14
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Where's Mike Rowe when you need him...?

I'm sure you will be glad when this "little project" is behind you ~

Shari
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