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GetOutDoors · 06-10-2005, 09:51 PM

Well, with your advice and web links, I have settled my search and purchased steel flanged elevator bolts. Thanks for your input!!

The next task is to remove the old floor. Is there a forum that addresses methods of how to cut the old bolts - to free the old ply?

Calvin

C Johnson · 06-11-2005, 12:11 AM

Hi Calvin, There are a lot of good threads on here about replacing the floor entirely or just part of it. Do a search on "Floor Replacement" or something similar. There is enough information on here that I didn't need to ask very many questions actually. I just went to town on it !

The way I did my floor was the back section and then the front section. Doing it this way allowed me to leave the shell partially attached to the frame. I didn't have to go through making the bracing for the ribs etc. I just had to support the back section from the center of the roof bow. It worked well for me and everything lined up when I was ready to put it back together. But then it looks like you have a larger AS which might mean you'll have to do it a bit differently. Good luck with your project ! Feel free to ask any qustions you might have. Everyone on here is very helpful.

Chris

C Johnson · 06-11-2005, 12:13 AM

I used a pair of vice grips and just broke the bolts off. It was the easiest way for me. -- FYI

fireflyinva · 06-11-2005, 05:25 AM

I don't think I'd have the arm strenth to break the bolts off. We mostly used a dremel, with the metal cutting disc. It just cut them off.

Mary

markdoane · 06-11-2005, 05:34 AM

Here is a method that I used with great success. Took about 4 hrs.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...4&page=2&pp=78

GetOutDoors · 06-11-2005, 12:26 PM

Don,

Tried your link, but didn't find the referenced information.

Calvin

markdoane · 06-11-2005, 12:41 PM

Calvin,

The process is to cut out the floor on either side of the crossmembers, leaving a narrow strip of plywood on top of the crossmember. You can find the location of the screws visually by spotting the tails.

Use a Sawzall to cut vertically through the plywood just to one side of the screw, then turn the saw sideways and cut horizontally through the plywood and screw.

The pictures are in posts #79 and #80 of thread #6554

GetOutDoors · 06-11-2005, 10:29 PM

Don,

Thanks for the info. You got me thinking.

I found another way: use a keyhole bit and drill to cut a hole around the bolt. Then, after the old ply is free and removed, I used bolt cutters to cut the easily accessable bolts (works well).

The perimeter bolts in the channel/frame work got the grinder and punch treatment.

I now have the front sheets of old ply removed and the new bolts ordered. The new marine grade ply is ready to be cut to shape after a little welding around the steps, some primer, and paint.

Thanks for your help.
Calvin

greg176 · 06-11-2005, 11:15 PM

I used my great big grinder and burned the heads off the bolts. Made a lot of smoke but very effective.

Trailer Girl · 06-19-2005, 09:33 PM

I got mine from Fastenal if there is not one near you they will ship to you- painted black, worked just fine
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...rowse&c=600009

Trailer Girl

GetOutDoors · 06-20-2005, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg176

I used my great big grinder and burned the heads off the bolts. Made a lot of smoke but very effective.

I started doing that, at first. The old ply started fire

- this is a bad idea if the wood is splintered or eroded with age (which is why my floor is being replaced). Fortunately, I had a bucket of water there that saved the gem.

markdoane · 06-20-2005, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trailer Girl

I got mine from Fastenal if there is not one near you they will ship to you- painted black, worked just fine
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...rowse&c=600009

Trailer Girl

I picked mine up at Fastenal also. Reminds me of the Maytag repairman. The gal working the desk was really glad to see another human. She gave a a tour of the store and introduced me to the guys in the back.

I think most of their stuff is either mail order or direct ship.

I'll go back there next week and take them some donuts.

2333 · 08-22-2007, 09:35 PM

1. Elevator bolts, just holding the plywood to the steel frame, I will probably go with plain steel or zinc-plated. There shouldn't be any dissimilar metal reaction, right? I just need to worry about moisture. I realize stainless steel may still last longer, but there's over 100 of these bolts needed.

2. Elevator (or other) bolt, thru the aluminum U-Channel-the plywood floor-then steel outrigger. I would think that since there are only a handful of these then splurging for stainless steel bolts is worth it here. Dissimilar metals here and since these are sitting close to the edges of the floor, more likely to get wet.

3. The screws holding down the U-channel to the plywood floor. Do they make aluminum wood screws? If so, I've never seen them. Nevertheless, I should use wood screws, but with what finish? The selection from McMaster-Carr is:

Material Type
Steel
Stainless Steel
Brass
Silicon Bronze

Finish
Plain
Zinc-Plated
Black Zinc-Plated
Black-Finish
Bronze-Plated
Corrosion-Resistant Coating
Galvanized
Hot-Dipped Galvanized
Passivated

A little more complex than I thought it'd be.

Please critique my logic on #1 and #2 and offer advice on #3.

Thanks!

(Nice to revive a 2-year old thread.)

2333 · 08-24-2007, 09:40 AM

Any opinions?

GetOutDoors · 08-24-2007, 10:02 AM

I used the black finish for the main floor and corrosion-resistant bolt in the channel. Primed and repainted them after install.

Outside channel bolts were fanged (to make it easier to tighten from the bottom side), inside channel bolts were not.

The channel bolts, take more stress than the others. I wouldn't want to use aluminum there because it would be too soft, even if you have an issue with dissimilar metals (the factory used steel bolts).

Be careful with Stainless steel: it may seize up on you before fully tightened.

2333 · 08-24-2007, 10:50 AM

Considering that seize factor, SS might not be a great idea.

The Fastenal guy thought that regular steel would start to rust basically the next day and that zinc-coated might give me a few years before starting to rust. That worried me a little until I recollected that it was a PITA to get the floor off and the bolts out during the demo phase ..... and these were plain old steel bolts of 45 years. Even if the steel was made better back then, I think anything would be good for awhile.