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Old 06-12-2005, 12:15 AM   #29
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I used my great big grinder and burned the heads off the bolts. Made a lot of smoke but very effective.
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:33 PM   #30
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Elevator Bolts

I got mine from Fastenal if there is not one near you they will ship to you- painted black, worked just fine
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...rowse&c=600009

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Old 06-20-2005, 08:38 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
I used my great big grinder and burned the heads off the bolts. Made a lot of smoke but very effective.
I started doing that, at first. The old ply started fire - this is a bad idea if the wood is splintered or eroded with age (which is why my floor is being replaced). Fortunately, I had a bucket of water there that saved the gem.
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:33 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailer Girl
I got mine from Fastenal if there is not one near you they will ship to you- painted black, worked just fine
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...rowse&c=600009

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I picked mine up at Fastenal also. Reminds me of the Maytag repairman. The gal working the desk was really glad to see another human. She gave a a tour of the store and introduced me to the guys in the back.

I think most of their stuff is either mail order or direct ship.

I'll go back there next week and take them some donuts.
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:35 PM   #33
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Just some clarification...

1. Elevator bolts, just holding the plywood to the steel frame, I will probably go with plain steel or zinc-plated. There shouldn't be any dissimilar metal reaction, right? I just need to worry about moisture. I realize stainless steel may still last longer, but there's over 100 of these bolts needed.

2. Elevator (or other) bolt, thru the aluminum U-Channel-the plywood floor-then steel outrigger. I would think that since there are only a handful of these then splurging for stainless steel bolts is worth it here. Dissimilar metals here and since these are sitting close to the edges of the floor, more likely to get wet.

3. The screws holding down the U-channel to the plywood floor. Do they make aluminum wood screws? If so, I've never seen them. Nevertheless, I should use wood screws, but with what finish? The selection from McMaster-Carr is:

Material Type
Steel
Stainless Steel
Brass
Silicon Bronze

Finish
Plain
Zinc-Plated
Black Zinc-Plated
Black-Finish
Bronze-Plated
Corrosion-Resistant Coating
Galvanized
Hot-Dipped Galvanized
Passivated


A little more complex than I thought it'd be.

Please critique my logic on #1 and #2 and offer advice on #3.

Thanks!

(Nice to revive a 2-year old thread.)
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:40 AM   #34
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Any opinions?
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:02 AM   #35
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I used the black finish for the main floor and corrosion-resistant bolt in the channel. Primed and repainted them after install.

Outside channel bolts were fanged (to make it easier to tighten from the bottom side), inside channel bolts were not.

The channel bolts, take more stress than the others. I wouldn't want to use aluminum there because it would be too soft, even if you have an issue with dissimilar metals (the factory used steel bolts).

Be careful with Stainless steel: it may seize up on you before fully tightened.
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:50 AM   #36
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Thanks SG...

Considering that seize factor, SS might not be a great idea.

The Fastenal guy thought that regular steel would start to rust basically the next day and that zinc-coated might give me a few years before starting to rust. That worried me a little until I recollected that it was a PITA to get the floor off and the bolts out during the demo phase ..... and these were plain old steel bolts of 45 years. Even if the steel was made better back then, I think anything would be good for awhile.
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