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Old 06-09-2005, 05:52 PM   #15
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I think it should be mentioned that Airstream did not use elevator bolts origionally. They were round head carrage type bolts. I think the elevator bolts are much better though.......

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Old 06-09-2005, 06:33 PM   #16
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I found SS online. However they did not have the little teeth and tended to turn when tightened.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:23 PM   #17
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One-year-old rusty zinc covered bolts do indicate a problem, which is why I'm refinishing the frame (with sandblast, primer, and paint) and replacing the floor.



Ocean vessels use replaceable zinc plates in the cooling system to minimize the corrosion to the steel; the zinc attracts the ionization, caused by friction, salt water, and the transfer of heat.



So, I don't understand why anyone would want to make the bolts that hold the flooring, frame, and shell together the target of corrosion by using zinc coated bolts. . . I would rather use non-zinc covered bolts and add a replaceable zinc plate that would take the corrosion. Who wants to tear their Airstream apart more frequently than necessary?



Airstream may not have used galvanized bolts; and evidence indicates they didn't use zinc coated ones either!
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:23 PM   #18
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Try Inventory Sales Company for any type fastener... screws, bolts, nuts, rivets, etc.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:40 PM   #19
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I am told by the local Airstream repair shop not to use Stainless Steel. They say it seizes up at some point and won't let you tighten or loosen the bolt/nut.

They use a bolt pictured here (if I attached the picture correctly). They gave me their last one and told me where they purchased it. So, I made a visit to the company, who told me they had never seen such a bolt. The bolt looks to be coated with aluminum, and is of a steel core (magnets like it). Does anyone know where these can be had?

(See my profile pics to see the bolt.)


Calvin
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:02 AM   #20
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Elevator Bolts

Hi Calvin, I used this type of elevator bolt assembly. It can be had at any decent hardware store. Mine are plated I think. If you have any questions by all means ask away.

Chris

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Old 06-10-2005, 10:51 PM   #21
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Well, with your advice and web links, I have settled my search and purchased steel flanged elevator bolts. Thanks for your input!!

The next task is to remove the old floor. Is there a forum that addresses methods of how to cut the old bolts - to free the old ply?

Calvin
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:11 AM   #22
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Some ideas

Hi Calvin, There are a lot of good threads on here about replacing the floor entirely or just part of it. Do a search on "Floor Replacement" or something similar. There is enough information on here that I didn't need to ask very many questions actually. I just went to town on it !

The way I did my floor was the back section and then the front section. Doing it this way allowed me to leave the shell partially attached to the frame. I didn't have to go through making the bracing for the ribs etc. I just had to support the back section from the center of the roof bow. It worked well for me and everything lined up when I was ready to put it back together. But then it looks like you have a larger AS which might mean you'll have to do it a bit differently. Good luck with your project ! Feel free to ask any qustions you might have. Everyone on here is very helpful.

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Old 06-11-2005, 01:13 AM   #23
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Removing bolts

I used a pair of vice grips and just broke the bolts off. It was the easiest way for me. -- FYI
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Old 06-11-2005, 06:25 AM   #24
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I don't think I'd have the arm strenth to break the bolts off. We mostly used a dremel, with the metal cutting disc. It just cut them off.

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Old 06-11-2005, 06:34 AM   #25
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Here is a method that I used with great success. Took about 4 hrs.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...4&page=2&pp=78
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:26 PM   #26
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Don,

Tried your link, but didn't find the referenced information.

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Old 06-11-2005, 01:41 PM   #27
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Calvin,

The process is to cut out the floor on either side of the crossmembers, leaving a narrow strip of plywood on top of the crossmember. You can find the location of the screws visually by spotting the tails.

Use a Sawzall to cut vertically through the plywood just to one side of the screw, then turn the saw sideways and cut horizontally through the plywood and screw.

The pictures are in posts #79 and #80 of thread #6554
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Old 06-11-2005, 11:29 PM   #28
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Don,

Thanks for the info. You got me thinking.

I found another way: use a keyhole bit and drill to cut a hole around the bolt. Then, after the old ply is free and removed, I used bolt cutters to cut the easily accessable bolts (works well). The perimeter bolts in the channel/frame work got the grinder and punch treatment.

I now have the front sheets of old ply removed and the new bolts ordered. The new marine grade ply is ready to be cut to shape after a little welding around the steps, some primer, and paint.

Thanks for your help.
Calvin
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