Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-14-2012, 05:57 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Valdosta , Georgia
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 9
Double skins issue

Well I have started the demo of my 72 31'er. Floor damage is what I expected so far and the frame is in fair condition. I have dropped the back half belly pan, removed the rear 4' of flooring, and opened the interior skins in the rear area. Here are a few things I have run into and questions I have:

1. When I tried to removed the bannana skins on the rear end side, I have found that there appears to be TWO layers of exterior skin. I took off the band trim, drilled out the rivets on the skin and found that there is another side skin that is riveted every 1 1/2" behind the outside skin. This is keeping me from getting to the rivets. The banana skin is ofcourse under this second skin. This is from the battery and h/w heater doors forward.
Is this normal and how do I get to the rivets or is this a sign that someone actually added a second skin for some reason???

2. I have seen alot of talk of what type of plywood to use but I have not seen anyone list using Gold Bond floor decking. We use this in the construction trade all the time because it is designed to handle water. Did not know if there is a weight issue or something else I do not know about?

3. I am moving the bath from the rear to the middle and I am also adding a grey water tank. Can anyone tell me what frame cells the tanks go in for a mid bath unit?

4. The belly pan is between the frame and akle brackets, will it simply slide out or are their rivets or something in there??

A couple of other general questions:

1. What is the reason for replacing the axles? I see alot of adds for axles but mine appear to be straight and I plan to repack bearings and rework the brakes.

2. Is it better to simply remove the existing edge caulk from around the window frames and reseal? I read someones post that if you have original windows that it is best to not drill out the rivets and re-set the windows.

3. I HATE the look of the A/C covers. Was thinking of making covers out of aluminum to have a better AS look. Has anyone already done this??

I appreciate anyones input. My plan is to redue the trailer will all new modern woodwork, flooring and rope lights, kind of old outside and new inside.
__________________

__________________
GaCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 06:41 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,649
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCamper View Post
Well I have started the demo of my 72 31'er. Floor damage is what I expected so far and the frame is in fair condition. I have dropped the back half belly pan, removed the rear 4' of flooring, and opened the interior skins in the rear area. Here are a few things I have run into and questions I have:

1. When I tried to removed the bannana skins on the rear end side, I have found that there appears to be TWO layers of exterior skin. I took off the band trim, drilled out the rivets on the skin and found that there is another side skin that is riveted every 1 1/2" behind the outside skin. This is keeping me from getting to the rivets. The banana skin is ofcourse under this second skin. This is from the battery and h/w heater doors forward.
Is this normal and how do I get to the rivets or is this a sign that someone actually added a second skin for some reason???

There is the upper skin and the lower banana wrap skins. Both skins attach to a C-channel and sometimes there are hidden rivets holding the banana skins on. You have to use a wood chisel to cut the heads off to remove the banana skins. Starting at the straight sections there is a second channel that surrounds the floor edge.


2. I have seen alot of talk of what type of plywood to use but I have not seen anyone list using Gold Bond floor decking. We use this in the construction trade all the time because it is designed to handle water. Did not know if there is a weight issue or something else I do not know about?

Marine plywood not chip board and not treated wood. Chip board will rot and fall apart if it gets wet and stays wet. Seal it with poly or epoxie to keep water out. Treated has acids that will attack the metal.

3. I am moving the bath from the rear to the middle and I am also adding a grey water tank. Can anyone tell me what frame cells the tanks go in for a mid bath unit?

4. The belly pan is between the frame and akle brackets, will it simply slide out or are their rivets or something in there??

I expect rivets and I expect they won't come out without removing the axels.

A couple of other general questions:

1. What is the reason for replacing the axles? I see alot of adds for axles but mine appear to be straight and I plan to repack bearings and rework the brakes.

The rubber springs get hard and you loose shock absorption which makes your trailer fall apart. Same for unbalanced tires.

2. Is it better to simply remove the existing edge caulk from around the window frames and reseal? I read someones post that if you have original windows that it is best to not drill out the rivets and re-set the windows.

Remove caulk and clean and put Trempro-635 around the windows at the top and Parbond for small gaps. There are other adhesives/sealants but those are the two most common.

3. I HATE the look of the A/C covers. Was thinking of making covers out of aluminum to have a better AS look. Has anyone already done this??

Is yours cracked?

I appreciate anyones input. My plan is to redue the trailer will all new modern woodwork, flooring and rope lights, kind of old outside and new inside.
Good luck sounds like a BIG project. Remember the floor must go between the body and frame and you must have a good connection to the frame at the back.

Perry
__________________

__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 09:23 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,912
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Please don't get defensive but leave OSB panels for houses - think marine and blue-water cruising yacht designs to get your work to last.

Y'alls Georgia humidity working 24/7/365 in the out-of-sight and hidden places gets a chip flooring at a disadvantage pretty fast, there is enough people here cussing trailer builders for fitting OSB in at the factory.

This job is that difficult and involved hopefully there is no one that would put a 10 or 15 year board in when you're replacing a 40-year-old floor.

Weyerhaeuser Gold Bond floor decking spec sheet to compare if anyone is interested.

I used a MDO overlay hardwood faced plywood that is used in outdoor advertising signs and concrete forms and paid $42 a sheet.

On the double side skins - its a fast repair to overlay new skins to cover gouged or rippled panels.
__________________

Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,649
MDO will come apart as well. That is the stuff that explodes when water hits it.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 09:42 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,841
I'll try to answer some of your questions
1) Overlaying a new skin on top of a damaged one has been a common repair method. I really don't agree with this method because if moisture gets inbetween the two unsealed panels corrosion will start. You have a few choices here, one to remove the section completly to gain access to the rivets and then reinstall, or two, just peel back the outer skin enough to get a angle drill in and drill out the rivets. A third option is to use a sharpened putty knife from the inside and shear them off.
2)All I know about the OSB is that owners are having problems with it blowing apart. Marine ply is the best choice followed by exterior grade ply which is what I used, My wallet is of the smaller variaty.
3) Can't help you here as I do not know where the stock configuration was located on the frame. But look at it this way it's your trailer and you can configure it any way you want, I am changing my 21' to a side wet bath and have had to get all new tanks. lots of planning here to allow for gray tanks, plumbing etc.
4) The chances of the belly pan sliding out from under the axles is remote. To quote Dirty Harry "Do You Feel Lucky" I had to just loosen the axle retaing nuts and bolts and it (I only had one)slipped down enough to pull the belly pan out. Trailer jacked up of course.
General
1) A good way to check the rubber rods in the torsion axle is to jack the trailer up an observe the tire wheel assembly. If it drops with the trailer going up then chances are you are alright, if it stays in the same position then the rubber has hardened up and its time to open the wallet.
2)I have a good explanation on this on my thread below at the end some where on my opionions of the foam gasket used from the factory.
3)Why not, sounds fun to me.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html
__________________
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 10:13 AM   #6
Tool Hoarder
 
Currently Looking...
West , California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCamper View Post
Well I have started the demo of my 72 31'er. Floor damage is what I expected so far and the frame is in fair condition. I have dropped the back half belly pan, removed the rear 4' of flooring, and opened the interior skins in the rear area. Here are a few things I have run into and questions I have:

1. When I tried to removed the banana skins on the rear end side, I have found that there appears to be TWO layers of exterior skin. I took off the band trim, drilled out the rivets on the skin and found that there is another side skin that is riveted every 1 1/2" behind the outside skin. This is keeping me from getting to the rivets. The banana skin is ofcourse under this second skin. This is from the battery and h/w heater doors forward.
Is this normal and how do I get to the rivets or is this a sign that someone actually added a second skin for some reason???

2. I have seen alot of talk of what type of plywood to use but I have not seen anyone list using Gold Bond floor decking. We use this in the construction trade all the time because it is designed to handle water. Did not know if there is a weight issue or something else I do not know about?

3. I am moving the bath from the rear to the middle and I am also adding a grey water tank. Can anyone tell me what frame cells the tanks go in for a mid bath unit?

4. The belly pan is between the frame and akle brackets, will it simply slide out or are their rivets or something in there??

A couple of other general questions:

1. What is the reason for replacing the axles? I see alot of adds for axles but mine appear to be straight and I plan to repack bearings and rework the brakes.

2. Is it better to simply remove the existing edge caulk from around the window frames and reseal? I read someones post that if you have original windows that it is best to not drill out the rivets and re-set the windows.

3. I HATE the look of the A/C covers. Was thinking of making covers out of aluminum to have a better AS look. Has anyone already done this??

I appreciate anyones input. My plan is to redue the trailer will all new modern woodwork, flooring and rope lights, kind of old outside and new inside.
I agree with Perryg114 Wabbiteer and Aerowood, I would stick with MGP ( I used Aquateck) it worked great for me. I added a grey tank just aft or the rear axles. I had to weld frame support for them, easy if you are removing the sub floor. I believe that moving the bath to the middle is tricky but doable. Truckasauras has a thread in the floor frame section worth reading. I also had a few shoddy repair jobs with sandwiched sheet metal. Aerowood is correct if you can replace the whole panel. Mine was on the rear street side and I was able to remove clean seal and re rivet the right way. To replace a 30' +/- was a bit too much (choose your battles). I had to cut my belly pan at the axles. Just do it and replace the pan its easy. Also replace the axles its easier and safer in the long run. Without starting a huge discussion on axles, there are a lot of threads that deal with this. Read them!!!
One last thing the windows (not the frames) are easier to deal with when they are removed. I am out the door after this post to do just that. Silicone is the devil!! I have one window the po completely shellacked with silicone and something else. I have to remove all the windows clean polish re gasket and re install. Four need new glass!! Better coffee up. Good luck check out my thread and blog there may be some ideas (of what not to do) for you!!
__________________
marzboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 12:33 PM   #7
1 Rivet Member
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Valdosta , Georgia
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 9
Great feedback from everyone. Thank you very much. I am sure there will be many more questions as I progress.
__________________
GaCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 01:41 PM   #8
Tool Hoarder
 
Currently Looking...
West , California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
Images: 3
I used these tanks for black and grey
__________________
marzboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 10:16 AM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
1974 27' Overlander
Twisp , Washington
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
Just a clarification...

Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
MDO will come apart as well. That is the stuff that explodes when water hits it.

Perry
MDO is Medium Density Overlay, or paper faced plywood. VERY good stuff, I use a lot of it for a lot of different purposes. Available in several grades, the stuff used for concrete forms is the best.

What you're thinking of is MDF, or Medium Density Fiberboard, which is basically pressed sawdust. It's also an excellent product in the right application, but you're right, it doesn't like getting wet. It's also extremely heavy, and won't hold fasteners on the edges. That said, I've left pieces out in the weather for a long time, and although the edges will take on water and swell, it still holds together. But I wouldn't use it for flooring on a travel trailer. Later.

Dave
__________________

__________________
daved20319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Clearance lights issue jsprad Lights - Interior & Exterior 3 08-20-2011 10:28 AM
Sealing Skins stowaways Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants 4 05-22-2011 01:58 PM
Back-up Lights - TV - issue Pinchy Lights - Interior & Exterior 3 05-10-2011 07:24 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.