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Old 11-01-2011, 06:19 PM   #15
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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5/8" exterior lap siding is 48-1/2" wide and has a lap-joint on each long edge, very much like the original flooring in my '64 safari. One face is rough-sawn and the other is an imperfect surface (knotholes), but suitable for the top of a sub-floor. It was about $27.50 per sheet when I bought mine a few years ago.

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Old 11-01-2011, 09:34 PM   #16
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Lufkin , Texas
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Thanks Rich! I wanted to make this as sturdy as possible so I was thinking 3/4, I also thought the original was 5/8 not 1/2. I don't want to increase the weight too much so 5/8 sounds like a good compromise.

I have some friends that work at the GP plywood mill in Camden so I hope to get a great deal.

I purchased some 3/16 x 2-1/2 bar stock today to box in the c channel over the axles to the rear. I Hope to remove the droop. How much droop should there be?

I noticed this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f228...tml#post925884 and I dont want to create a problem or add unnecessary weight.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:45 PM   #17
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The main frame rails are now straight. I started off this weekend unsure of how much metal I would add and ended up adding 20' of 2.5"x3/16 flat bar.

I stared off by supporing the front with jack stands and jacking the rear to lift the axles off of the ground. I expected the frame would sag slightly in this condition but it actually had about a 1" bow upward.

To correct this I tacked two temporary masts above the axles about 3 ft tall and draped a chain over each one hooked into the rear of the frame and around the front of the chain. I then tighted the chain with a ratcheting turnbuckle until there was about a 1" bow down. while holding this I boxed in the channel with stich welds doing the bottom welds first and then the top.

After completing the welds and removing the chains and jacks the frame is surprisingly straigt. With my laser level shooting from front to back I have less than 3/16 in variation from front to back. Hopefully this will stay that way with less strain when the shell is back on. Maybe I will not break any outriggers this time.

I can'y believe how bad the stress concentration in just in fron of the axles. The factory boxes in the front of the frame but stopped just as the axle mounting plate starts. In the back the frame is really strong due to the extensions for holding the tanks. There are basically three different strength sections, rear, over the axles, and the front. That would be OK if there was a better transition between them. I may add one more piece before I cover it up. I now have two outriggers to put back on and then a lot of clean up and POR15.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:53 AM   #18
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You applied the mid evil rack technique to your frame and no photos????
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:43 PM   #19
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The Rack

I would hate to dissapoint. Here is a photo of the rack.

Notice I welded my temporary mast directy to the axle tube. Never do this on axles you are going to keep. I have to have replacements. I could smell the rubber burning even though I only made small tacks that i just broke off when I was done.
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:35 PM   #20
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I would hate to dissapoint. Here is a photo of the rack.

Notice I welded my temporary mast directy to the axle tube. Never do this on axles you are going to keep. I have to have replacements. I could smell the rubber burning even though I only made small tacks that i just broke off when I was done.

cool....
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:13 PM   #21
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Darkspeed

How do you get your links to post with a clean [description] and not http://...
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jslowery
Darkspeed

How do you get your links to post with a clean [description] and not http://...
Type the text you want as a link , then select it, then paste the actual URL to that highlighted text.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:58 PM   #23
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Bike Rack?

I saw a couple of really nice Airstreams yesterday in St. Augustine Texas. One had a bike rack on the rear and that has really got me thinking. I may add a little reinforcement to the frame and put one on as well. It would be very useful and now would be the time. I have heard this is a bad idea but the moment created by an extra 40 pounds off the back is probably less than some of the other junk I have carried. Grey and black water tanks are at the back and add at least 80lbs at 8 ft behind axles when full. What do you think?
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:32 AM   #24
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Better to put them on the front of your tow vehicle.

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Old 02-04-2012, 09:41 PM   #25
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I have finally Been able to get back on the airstream. I purchased some trempro 635 and have been very disappointed. It sets very hard/permanent compared to what was removed. Does anyone know of anything more comparable to the original? What I have removed on the inside of the shell along the seams could be reused if It was clean, still very pliable and sticky.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:00 AM   #26
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Most likely it was butyl tape. My '64 Bambi II had a lot of it inside as well.

Butyl RV Putty Tape
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:20 PM   #27
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I have finally Been able to get back on the airstream. I purchased some trempro 635 and have been very disappointed. It sets very hard/permanent compared to what was removed. Does anyone know of anything more comparable to the original? What I have removed on the inside of the shell along the seams could be reused if It was clean, still very pliable and sticky.
Vulkem sealer works great.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:34 PM   #28
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Vulkem sealer works great.

Andy
I now have some Vulkem. It is closer to what I am looking for but still not the same. It is not like the butyl tape I have either. This seems like a sticky cookie dough or taffy. Any other ideas?
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