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Old 02-16-2009, 02:25 PM   #1
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1969 21' Globetrotter
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Cost effective frame painting system???

I am now at the stage in renovating my 1969 Globe Trotter (shell on) where I have the frame exposed and being readied for paint. I see that many who contribute to this forum recommend a product called POR-15. On going to their web site I see three things. The first is that it should not be used on previously painted surfaces, the second is that it costs about $46 per quart and the third is that they recommend two or even three coats in more corrosive environments. I can see the use of this in the most corroded areas or perhaps the worst areas until one quart is used up. In my case, I think it would take much more than a quart to cover just those areas just once where all the previous paint is gone (about 50% of the frame). Is there zinc in this paint? If not, would a zinc rich paint be a good alternative? Since it appears that POR-15 is the Cadallac of paints, is there a Buick and an Oldsmobile or even a Pontiac of paints that might also be considered? Your comments on this subject and ideas for the most cost effective frame coating system would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-16-2009, 02:52 PM   #2
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find a local sherwin -williams dealer and ask what they have in the way of industrial primers ,S.W. makes primers for alot of harsh places,oil rigs,bridges,etc they should be able to refer you to a quality product.
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Old 02-16-2009, 05:59 PM   #3
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Great question Joe.
As for zinc paint...I think zinc chromate primer has either been outlawed or heavily regulated away from the general public (sheep).

I have always suspected that POR-15 was one of the last century's greatest marketing jobs.
And have wondered why a competing product has not come along that claims at least the same effectiveness.
Chemical sleuths in the industry can surely figure out what is in the 200 dollar a gallon stuff.
I have never tried to research the mass of possible knowledge in regards to the "Real" longevity and performance of items coated with POR-15, but it certainly deserves doctoral or better scrutiny. Until otherwise explored I guess the cult following it has amassed is gonna have to be proof enough that it is primo.
Bravo to their marketing dept.

Oh and be careful believing everything you hear at a Sherwin Williams store.
They have become just another retailer IMHO.
They have some great products still I hope, but their help and managers are not experts by a long shot in most stores. Again just a marketing deal.

There used to be a brand of paint in Corpus Christi Texas that was favored almost 99% by the salt-water shoreline industries thereabouts.
It was Briner Paint. But I am not sure if it is still in biz. I'd try to find out what the offshore boys use on those rigs and would expect that they ought to have an idea of a good coating system.
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Old 02-16-2009, 06:40 PM   #4
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How about Ace Hardwares Rust Stop primer and paint, or good old Rustoleum? Both are rust stoppers, are reasonably priced and available just about everywhere. I don't think that any of these primers/ paints are a golden bullet against rust anyway. If I can get another 45 years out of this trailer, I will get it a new frame for its 90th birthday.
For $40.00/ quart I should be able to make a nice margarita with it.
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Old 02-17-2009, 03:33 AM   #5
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Tremclad or Rustoleum and a brush. I have painted rusty machinery with this stuff and it's still good after 20 years.

You need at least 2 coats preferably 3 for full coverage and protection.
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Old 02-17-2009, 05:52 AM   #6
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I've never looked for alternatives as I've found that POR-15 works great. If
someone comes up w/ a better idea, I'd certainly try it out.

Keep in mind that POR-15 must be top coated if it is exposed to sunlight. Yes, I know that the frame is under the shell but the front hitch area is not. It turns funny colors in sunlight but I don't know if it affects the durability of the coating.
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:18 AM   #7
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My dad worked in the R&D department for a major oil company and he performed a long term study of coatings for oil/gas pipelines in the Texas coastal (marshy) environment. The conclusion of his 5 year study was that alkyd based paints provided the best overall protection from the environmental conditions.

I see that Rustoleum has a line of alkyd based marine paints available at Home Depot (you may have to order but the price is reasonable).
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:19 AM   #8
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There are other options out there.

I have been investigating this to coat the A-frame, it is available without the non-slip additive. Looks promising.

Durabak Company; Truck Bed, Marine, Boat Ship Industrial & Workplace Non-Skid Coatings.
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:12 PM   #9
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loc tite

joePFZnic,
I must be in about the same stages of repair. I believe I fit in the Chevy range or I'm too tight but any way look what I found. I also called the Indusrial store of Sherwin Williams and was told the rust encapsilator is about 18.00 a gallon. Of course they suggest second and third coats of other products but at least we can go to a retailer and talk shop. This will definitely get checked out.


My brother actually has a bottle of the loc tite. info below.

Aaron




http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-75430-Extend-Rust-Treatment/dp/B000HZOHCU
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:48 PM   #10
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I am speaking as a person and not a commercial vendor now...

Eastwood makes excellent products. They are a car restoration products company. On my own trailer I have used their converter and encapsulator with excellent results. Not sure how the price compares to the other systems out there. I honestly do not give a fig about the cost, I only care about the results.

So once again that was me speaking as a person not a commercial vendor.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:35 PM   #11
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A few thoughts here:

1) POR-15 is expensive for sure. But a quart goes much further than you might think. I was able to paint two coats of it onto the back 1/3 of my trailer frame, plus the bumper, three coats in a few spots, and still have a little leftover from one quart.

2) I can't speak to the long-term benefits of POR-15, but there are others who have and will.

3) I was impressed with the way it went on, with its coverage, and with its flowability if that's a word.

4) As impressed as I was with the POR-15, I was NOT impressed with their Stirling Silver top coat. The POR-15 went on beautifully smooth, even over some heavy pitting, but the Stirling Silver came out somewhat lumpy and streaky. Next time, I will use something else as a top-coat.

5) A previous owner used silver-colored Rustoleum on the a-frame and step of my trailer, and a couple years later, the rust is popping back through. I've used it many times for indoor projects, but I will not ever use this product in an exterior application.

6) 62Overlander might be labeled as a "Commercial Vendor" but he is not a broker for Eastwood products, so you can take him at his word on that.

-Marcus
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:40 PM   #12
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Red face Fig Newtons aint cheap either..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post

I honestly do not give a fig about the cost, I only care about the results.
Seems like I heard Barney Frank say the same thing or was it Nancy Pelosi.?
You should perhaps run for Congress.

You certainly meet the stereotypical Airstreamer profile. Or as Dennis (87MH) likes to say "Spend the bucks, do it right the first time".

The rest of us are just gonna have to fake it til we make it.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
There are other options out there.

I have been investigating this to coat the A-frame, it is available without the non-slip additive. Looks promising.

Durabak Company; Truck Bed, Marine, Boat Ship Industrial & Workplace Non-Skid Coatings.
Well, it's only supplied in gal's, expensive, the sample they sent seems super tough, shelf life 1yr?. I question that if kept in the gal container.
I only need enough for the A-frame, tool box, rear bumper slide-out, and maybe the Arrow head. So I guess I'm still look'n.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:59 PM   #14
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The loc tite product I mentioned in my previos post is available at Ace Hardware. My brother is giving me a quart so I will be trying it in a day or two, weather permitting. I will take before and after pics to show results.I still plan on using a primer and top coat to cover my hitch area and all the new cross members I have to weld in. I'll keep all posted on the loc tite.

Aaron
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:24 PM   #15
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I too have had bad results with rust paint (Rustoleum, Tremclad) but only when depending on one coat. You need at least 2 coats, preferably 3 for complete coverage. Also it is rather slow drying which some people find annoying. But it does the job and it's cheap.

POR 15 works well but ONLY on rust. On clean metal it's no good at all.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Seems like I heard Barney Frank say the same thing or was it Nancy Pelosi.?
You should perhaps run for Congress.

You certainly meet the stereotypical Airstreamer profile. Or as Dennis (87MH) likes to say "Spend the bucks, do it right the first time".

The rest of us are just gonna have to fake it til we make it.
Not very sure I understand the logic here. Earlier you were talking about oil rig paint as being a good solution. I can promise you the sun will rise tomorrow and that oil rigs are not painted with rustolium from a rattle can purchased from the Home Depot. Yes the POR15 cost about $200 a gallon, but you do not need a gallon, you need a quart. 87MH is correct. Do right once. The product I have used is just a little less than the POR15, but just about the same cost. I have been very happy with it's performance thus far. Good luck with paying for oil rig paint. I also want to say that very few on this forum fake it. Some are trying to make it, but very few here fake it. Maybe our priorities are different or maybe our needs are different, I just don't know. But I do not see the point of doing an okay job when the means to do an excellent job are easily within your reach.
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:46 PM   #17
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I used POR15 on the frame of a '29 oldsmobile in 1998. Frame was wire brushed not sand blasted. Both rails from the firewall to the ft bumper had solid original paint. 10 yrs later the POR has held perfectly over the rusted areas, but pealed off the original paint areas ! Lesson learned yet agian, read and follow directions! Can came with a booklet that said it needed some rust to work. I'm about to paint the frame on my '64 AS. It has a lot of orig paint. Going to go with implement primer/paint from a local farm eqp. dealer. Low cost, made for a harsh enviornment, why not?
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I used POR15 on the frame of a '29 oldsmobile in 1998. Frame was wire brushed not sand blasted. Both rails from the firewall to the ft bumper had solid original paint. 10 yrs later the POR has held perfectly over the rusted areas, but pealed off the original paint areas ! Lesson learned yet agian, read and follow directions! Can came with a booklet that said it needed some rust to work. I'm about to paint the frame on my '64 AS. It has a lot of orig paint. Going to go with implement primer/paint from a local farm eqp. dealer. Low cost, made for a harsh enviornment, why not?

Just walked in from the garage using Por 15 on my TR6 frame. It goes a long way and works great. The cleaner and metal prep they sell works great also. BTW don't get on you, you will wear it for a week.



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Old 03-11-2009, 03:38 PM   #19
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Hi Jim ain't it fun!. Do'nt think either one of us is gonna pull our safris' to far with these rigs!
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:29 PM   #20
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Hi Jim ain't it fun!. Do'nt think either one of us is gonna pull our safris' to far with these rigs!
Oh yea and right next to the TR is a MGA waiting to go back together. I took the MGA apart to have it painted to take on my Honeymoon and the painter screwed it up. I have been so busy since I got married I have just found time to think about putting it back together. BTW I got married in 1990.
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