I have new floor in place in my 73 overlaner and I am ready to bolt it to the c-channel. I have seen many a thread about what size bolts to use, but I cannot find those threads today. I want to buy the correct bolts, washer and lock nuts. I also need the size and length of the two bolts that go at the end of the rails, 3" metal and wood floor. Would somebody please give me the correct sizes and lenghts. Any other added advice would be welcomed.
Once both of these are screwed in they are flush so you can put down what ever flooring you like. You may need to pull away any wood splinters that might popup.
My '67 originally used 1/4-20 x 2" Elevator bolts at all locations. Nut spin-off was prevented by bending the bolt "stick-out." The bolts at the "C" channel were installed with the nut side up.
When I put in my new floor, I plan to use 1/4-20 Stainless Elevator bolts and nylon insert nuts. I also plan to use guide tab washers under the nut in the "C" channel.
Where'd you get the guide washers? I ordered "tabbed" elevator bolts from McMaster's so I can insert them, then put the nut on from underneath without needing a helper to hold the elevator bolt head. Got the tabbed idea from 2333 (Craig).
Zep
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I like the ribbed elevator bolts, but they also do not come in SS. Using Stainless Steel may be overkill though, for the interior bolts... a definate plus at the "C" channel though.
I tried to order the wafer head screws with wings from Out-of Doors today but they only showed 15 pcs in stock. I did however find them at Albany County Fasteners and they were very reasonable.
I am planning on using some elevator bolts (mainly in the bath area where I have removed the belly pan) but I plan on using these screws (wafer head) in other areas. I will probably use SS or HDG hex bolts in the c-channels to the outriggers.
I would be wary of 10 gauge screws - maybe too fine shafted to withstand much floor heave, motion plus thermal expansion plus changing wood moisture content equal visits from Woodwarp N. Screwsnapper. If you follow through using them I'd increase their numbers used by 25%, ie: 5 instead of 4....
10g .19 ~3/16"
12g .22 ~7/32" 14g .25 ~1/4"
I found #12 - 24 thread-per-inch equal to the originals from Fastenal - they made me buy 150 of them but they are epoxy coated and also are longer than originals since I found some binding by only one thread where the flooring joiner plate overlays a spar.
I went with stainless steel and used 1/4 and 3/8 inch bolts. I used the same bolts that were used by airstream. I found some bolts I cut off in the channel and I still had a cut off 3/8 inch bolt in the metal plate. Everything is done and looks great. You can see my pics on 1973 overlander restoration thread in the category floor and frame replacement.
I would be wary of 10 gauge screws - maybe too fine shafted to withstand much floor heave, motion plus thermal expansion plus changing wood moisture content equal visits from Woodwarp N. Screwsnapper. If you follow through using them I'd increase their numbers used by 25%, ie: 5 instead of 4.... .
That's very good information. I do plan on using the elevator bolts on the fore and aft sections of the floor where it is easy to lay the belly skin down. Where I will probably use the wafer head screws is in the center sections where there should be less torque.
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