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Old 08-01-2013, 10:05 AM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
1977 31' Sovereign
Narvon , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 48
Checking frame??

Hi,
Just got my 67 Safari back. Had the wheels/ brakes checked and fixed. Good to go now.
Will be polishing exterior and then sealing seams before doing interior.
I would like to check the frame out. I do have separation in the rear(bath).
Can I take off the bottom panels to check frame with out taking off upper panels?
Do I take off the trim around the bottom of the trailer to begin?
I am sure I will need to replace some sub floor in the bath area which I think I can do from inside, or maybe when the bottom panels are off.
Thanks for the tips. Can't wait to start. I will post some pics....if I can.
Ken
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:35 AM   #2
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I assume when you say "panels," you are talking about the interior skins? If so, then yes, you should be able to take them off without removing the upper ones--just beware that there may be pop rivets hidden under the overlap. I don't see how this is going to help you evaluate the condition of the frame, though. To do that, you are going to have to get into the rear bellypan.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:37 AM   #3
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1967 22' Safari
1977 31' Sovereign
Narvon , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 48
belly pannels

I was not clear-sorry.
I need to check the frame from below I guess.
I would like to take off the belly panels to do this.
I checked again and think I can take them off w/o taking off
the bottom exterior trim.
I would like to use POR 15 on any rust I see.
Would it be to hard to replace the sup floor in the rear bath from inside?
Do I need to take off the whole body to replace just that section?
Thanks so much, Ken
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:34 PM   #4
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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Yes, it sounds like you are talking about dropping the bellypan. On the 60's vintage trailers, the belly skin wraps up over the C-channels at the base of the walls, so you'll have to take a good look and see what can be done. A previous owner may have already cut into the belly, in which case it may take nothing more than drilling out some pop rivets.

There are plenty of folks that replace sections of floor without doing a complete shell-off. It is challenging, and will likely require you to create additional sections in the sheet, but is certainly easier than removing the entire shell if the rest of your floor is in good shape. Make sure you check the rest of your floor thoroughly along the perimeter, so that you can be confident that the damage is limited to the one area.

good luck!
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:05 AM   #5
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1967 22' Safari
1977 31' Sovereign
Narvon , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 48
Thanks,
I checked the belly pan and it seems that there is a seam under there and I should be able to drill out those rivets! The seam runs front to back direction.
Once I have the belly pan off, I should be able to see what's going on in there.
Knowing that there is rear separation going on, what do you think would be the best approach to get that corrected?
Anything else I should be checking while under there?
Much appreciated.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:30 PM   #6
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1964 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
enosburg , Vermont
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By "unzipping", drilling the rivets on the center seam and the flats you can lower the belly pan enough to see the frame. Before you start you may want to pull it up on ramps and block it securely. You need some extra height to allow the two pan sections down enough so you can get between them to see and work. The axle will restrict the pan lowering some, you MAY want to cut a couple feet of the pan sections from the center line to the outside behind the axle and patch with aluminum strips on reassembly, just an option. If the original rivet holes in the pan are weakened you can get large rivet heads on 3/16 rivets, they work very well. When you're under there remember there is 40+yrs of filth, rust, ect and a black water tank that may drop on you! Check the black water tank supports while you're in there. Now is the time to fix if needed, you'll never be any closer.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:36 AM   #7
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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For the rear end separation, this is usually caused by the wood subfloor rotting out and leaving a gap between the frame and the shell so that they can move independently. If the wood is that rotten, then the frame is usually seriously rusted/rotted/disintegrating as well. So you may end up have to rebuild/reinforce your frame in the rear. The other thing to expect is that the rear hold down plate (that bolts to the frame, and rivets to the rear back panel) will likely be rusted away. If you have a piece of trim wrapping around your trailer covering the rivet line that connects the shell to the frame, remove it and look carefully at the condition of the skin around those rivets in the rear. If it is like mine, the skin will be severely corroded, cracking, and tearing out around the rivets.

Correction of the separation basically goes in this order:
-repair and paint with POR-15 the rear part of your frame and rear hold down plate
-replace rotted subfloor
-repair corroded/damaged skin if needed
-rebolt the shell to the frame through the subfloor.

good luck!
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:41 AM   #8
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1967 22' Safari
1977 31' Sovereign
Narvon , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 48
Thanks for the great info.
It is the unknown that is scary about opening it up, getting this good info is making it a lot more comfortable to do.
I am starting the polishing and sealing process now and will get into the floor/frame next.
I will try to post some pics as I progress. I am sure I will have more questions.
This is a great forum and would not attempt to do this w/o it.

ANY BODY IN THE AREA WHO WOULD LIKE TO STOP BY FOR A LOOKSIE??
Would be glad to have a "mentor" and chew the fat some.

Thanks Again!
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