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Old 08-28-2016, 09:28 PM   #1
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C-Jack or Scissors

Hey all,
I have a 33' 1972 Streamline that I'm doing the full monty on. I am so sick of wire-wheeling rust off the frame....and I'm only 1/4 done.

While I have easy access, I figured I'd test-mount the new jacks. (Originally, it had some sort of hydraulic frankenstein jacks. Dumped those leaky beasts.)

He's the question for you experts: BAL C-jack or some sort of Scissor Jacks. Pros and Cons?

Thanks for your input!
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:27 AM   #2
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Note about picture - The angle irons hanging down are where I'd attach the jacks. For the C-Jacks I do plan on using the brace they sell to brace over to the other jack on the other side of the trailer.
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:38 AM   #3
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I would have frame sand blasted does better job than wire wheel [ gets all nooks and crannies that wire wheel can't get at. In our area one will come to property to blast several others take to them . 1 I no of uses glass beads, coconut hulls, sand, and black beauty. If you have air compressor can pur. cheap blaster from hf or I made one from 20lb propane tank but hassle to make. Sand is white silica sand available at brick dealers and some big box stores.
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:50 AM   #4
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If you have the room in the trailer to hide them, you can also consider 4 tongue jacks.
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:39 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
I would have frame sand blasted does better job than wire wheel [ gets all nooks and crannies that wire wheel can't get at. In our area one will come to property to blast several others take to them . 1 I no of uses glass beads, coconut hulls, sand, and black beauty. If you have air compressor can pur. cheap blaster from hf or I made one from 20lb propane tank but hassle to make. Sand is white silica sand available at brick dealers and some big box stores.
Thanks for the advice. I'm already far down the road with the wire brush, so I'll stick with it. Luckily, I live in a dry climate, so, rust is not a big worry.

Eric
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericpeltier View Post
Hey all,
I have a 33' 1972 Streamline that I'm doing the full monty on. I am so sick of wire-wheeling rust off the frame....and I'm only 1/4 done.

While I have easy access, I figured I'd test-mount the new jacks. (Originally, it had some sort of hydraulic frankenstein jacks. Dumped those leaky beasts.)

He's the question for you experts: BAL C-jack or some sort of Scissor Jacks. Pros and Cons?

Thanks for your input!
I'm at the same place with mine and this is what I was told. The C jacks are nice because the suck up right next to the frame but you can only use them to stabilize the rocking of your trailer. The scissor jacks can stabilize, level and even help you when changing a tire. The down side to scissor jacks are they hang lower offtheframe so there's a chance you'll rip one off if you go over something on the road or coming out of a gas station or driveway. One solution might be to use c jacks toward the tongue and scissor jack just behind the axel. That is if you axel comes down as far as the scissor jacks. A best of both world maybe. That's just a theory. I haven't installed any on mine yet.
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:00 PM   #7
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The C jacks are much sturdier than the older stabilizers. They can hold 3-5000lbs depending on the length. Capable of being used for some leveling. Probably good for changing a tire in a pinch. They stay more flush than scissor jacks which stick down quite a bit, reducing chance of dragging them.
They need support on a cross member in the inner end of the jack. May be something to weld in before covering the belly up. They have a cross beam you can put on them if the cross member doesn't line up.
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:14 AM   #8
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You might wish to consider whether it's advisable to utilize jacks for levelling an Airstream. The frames of some AS are not capable of being used to support much, as indicated by the rear-frame injury some suffer from bottoming out and the advice to avoid rollers, etc..
If the frame is supported other than at the axles and tongue it may be possible to seriously hurt your trailer. (I'm not talking about multiple-supports, such as should be used when the axles are changed-out. I mean such as at the corners where stab jacks are used. Those on the rear might be harmful if too much weight is lifted.)

Eric, it looks like you've already made good progress and the next suggestion might be too late for your interest...but, ...
Another method to deal with rust may be to use Ospho or phosphoric-acid rust treatment. This will convert the rust (iron-oxide) to a hard, protective surface treatment that can be painted directly over the treatment after it dries. I've done this on other steel structures and utility trailer frames and it's been very satisfactory. (When I win the lottery I'll buy Thor and we'll start galvanizing them like salt-water boat trailers.)

Joking-aside... I can't see why a shell-off restoration wouldn't make use of cold-galvanize paint. It's been 20 years and two hurricanes since I used that stuff on bare 4" angle-iron at the Gulf-coast beach house and there's virtually no rust and the grey galv.-paint is still doing fine. It's not a glossy-look, but it's durable, and except for the A-frame/tongue, not particularly visible on an AS.)
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