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Old 07-03-2010, 10:14 PM   #1
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1963 16' Bambi
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C Channel How-To

So, I have the floor removed on my 63 Bambi, and its down to shell,frame and belly pan. When installing the new plywood floor, would it be easier to remove the C channel from the interior now, and then attach it to the plywood floor before installation? Also, if i were to remove the C Channel, how exactly am I supposed to do that-is it only attached via buck rivets on the exterior? If so, how does one remove buck rivets? Inside, the pop rivets can be drilled out, but I don't think exterior ones can...thanks.
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:38 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by roadtrip07 View Post
So, I have the floor removed on my 63 Bambi, and its down to shell,frame and belly pan. When installing the new plywood floor, would it be easier to remove the C channel from the interior now, and then attach it to the plywood floor before installation? Also, if i were to remove the C Channel, how exactly am I supposed to do that-is it only attached via buck rivets on the exterior? If so, how does one remove buck rivets? Inside, the pop rivets can be drilled out, but I don't think exterior ones can...thanks.
I get the drift that you completely removed the old floor without removing the inside lower skins. That floor must have been rotten all the way around. I really don't know how you could do this.

You can't install a new floor without removing the lower inside skin. You have to be able to drill down through the C-channel (maybe even using the pre-exisiting holes) and into the tips of the outriggers. Then you have to install the "elevator" bolts thru the C-channel, flooring, and outrigger. You don't have to remove the exterior skin from the C-channel.

You can remove the C-channel. it is only attached with the bucked rivets to the shell. Bucked/solid rivets are easy to drill out. With some practice, you can guide a wandering drill bit to go through the rivet center and drill the head off (you also have to keep drilling to get the shaft of the rivet out--the shaft expands when the rivet is bucked, so it should be tight in the hole and if you just drill the head off, later it is very difficult to keep the bit centered on the remaining shaft). My advice is to put the drill bit on the center of the head before you start it rotating, then start slow until you've created a small dimple. After that, it's reasonably easy to keep aiming the drill bit to the center, even if it's wandering a little. It is impossible to control if you touch the head with the drill rotating.

If you drill out the bucked rivets, you have to replace them, either with new bucked rivets or with Olypmpics. If you have access to both sides of the rivet, there is no excuse not to buck them, even if the tools cost $200 (IMHO).

Zep
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Old 07-04-2010, 12:08 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
I get the drift that you completely removed the old floor without removing the inside lower skins. That floor must have been rotten all the way around. I really don't know how you could do this.

You can't install a new floor without removing the lower inside skin. You have to be able to drill down through the C-channel (maybe even using the pre-exisiting holes) and into the tips of the outriggers. Then you have to install the "elevator" bolts thru the C-channel, flooring, and outrigger. You don't have to remove the exterior skin from the C-channel.

You can remove the C-channel. it is only attached with the bucked rivets to the shell. Bucked/solid rivets are easy to drill out. With some practice, you can guide a wandering drill bit to go through the rivet center and drill the head off (you also have to keep drilling to get the shaft of the rivet out--the shaft expands when the rivet is bucked, so it should be tight in the hole and if you just drill the head off, later it is very difficult to keep the bit centered on the remaining shaft). My advice is to put the drill bit on the center of the head before you start it rotating, then start slow until you've created a small dimple. After that, it's reasonably easy to keep aiming the drill bit to the center, even if it's wandering a little. It is impossible to control if you touch the head with the drill rotating.

If you drill out the bucked rivets, you have to replace them, either with new bucked rivets or with Olypmpics. If you have access to both sides of the rivet, there is no excuse not to buck them, even if the tools cost $200 (IMHO).

Zep
It was almost rotten all the way around, so I guess that's how it was possible. I'm quite sure this is a stupid question, but please excuse me-I'm an extreme newbie. What are you referring to when you say outrigger?
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Old 07-04-2010, 07:49 AM   #4
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... What are you referring to when you say outrigger?
We were all newbies once and I still don't know the right names for some of the windows, etc.

An outrigger is the steel support that extends outwards from the main frame rails. They are curved on the bottom and have a flange on top to support the floor.

For example, there is one on either side of the step and one fore and aft of each wheel well. I think there are about six more, total. They are often sufficiently damaged by rust as to have to be replaced. You can get them for about $15 each at Out of Doors Mart, but then you need someone who can weld.

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