C channel advice in 1971 Overlander restoration.

[chilipepper]

I had some pieces of aluminum bent up to replace the rear c channel on my overlander that was broken off at the two frame attachment points. No one around here had aluminum longer than 4 feet so that is what I ended up with. So as you can see in the photos there is the piece I need to replace and the pieces I have to use to replace it with. I had them make the legs a bit longer to give a little more to mount too. I also had them make up a new stainless hold down plate as well. What would be the best way to transition from the old channel to the new? Also, is there any other practical way to make the curved bits than cutting slots and trying to re-create the original radius? Thanks!

[chilipepper]

Hmm... Must be a stumper of a question!

[aquinob]

Anything is possible, but that is probably beyond what most folks can do. The c channel just has to connect the ribs down to the floor, it doesnt have to be really pretty. As for the transition, they may have welded them originally, but probably the best you can do is over lap it some with a bolt in the middle to hold it together.

[chilipepper]

Thanks for the reply Bob! I think what I'll end up doing is taking it to the chop saw and marking about 1" marks along the radius. I'm hoping that will allow enough of a bent to make the corner. Since I have to use two pieces to eventually replace the one continuous piece that is in there, I'll make the splice in the center of the trailer and that way it will have the rear hold down plate to reinforce the splice. On the outer ends I'll try and get it under the old C channel and see if I can run it under about 6 inches and get one or two elevator bolts in there.

I'll try and update this thread as I progress for future reference.

[RM66caravel]

I know that mine is a different year but I had the c channel made a little higher and then ended up cutting most of it back to get it to fit.!
Cliff

[chilipepper]

Cliff. I had the same thought and tried to measure things out multiple times. However, as it seems with all projects so far there will certainly be some snafu to create a few more hours of time and labor!!

Thanks for the reply!

[morganobenn]

Ryan
I am thinking doing something similar. Will probably buy some commercially available "u" channel. To make the curved section, I am thinking of slitting the channel periodically to approximate the original "curved" section. I will put a flat piece of metal in the bottom (cut to fit the arc) and bolt that to the floor; I think that will give it near the original strength. I think a flat piece of metal that will fit the bottom of the channel would be a good way to make a strong joint where to piece butt together.

Best wishes for your success; let us know how it goes.

Owen Bennett (aka Morganobenn)

[chilipepper]

Thanks for the reply. No matter how you plan it is kind of a pain in the butt. I ended up cutting the length to fit, then had to hammer out the angle to get it bend around the radius without wanting to bend up off of the floor. I had a piece of 1/8" stainless plate I traced the radius on and cut it out just as you described. In this plate I added another bolt either side of the frame rail. One went through the stainless hold down plate and the other just sandwiches the c channel and plywood. It should be considerably stronger than the original method in my opinion. I have one side done and the other to complete.

[morganobenn]

Ryan
Thanks for the photos. I agree that this approach is stronger. Good luck in closing out.
Owen

[mccrosti]

If you ever get a chance to see a 50s Airstream opened up, you will see the C channel is many different pieces.

[perryg114]

That should work. I did something similar on mine.

Perry

[TennTex]

Nice work - and much stronger than original.

Alan