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Old 08-24-2011, 10:19 PM   #15
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1976 31' Sovereign
Pittsburgh , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Mikal as long as the shell is properly supported it can remain off the chassis for quite some time.

It took me ten weeks to lift the shell, build the frame, attach the new floor and axles etc and get the shell back on. I tried to work on it every day but sometimes work and the weather got in the way. I don't think you can do it in a weekend. It all depends how much frame /floor repair you need to do. Right now I'm about half way through the polishing stage then I will be installing awnings, sat dish and solar panels. then the shell gets sealed and I move on to the inside.

Yes I would replace the axles at the same time it's much easier to do then.
If I had it to do over again I would fix the shell, leaks, seals, panel replacement first before pulling the shell. That way once you do the frame and floor and the shell goes back on it's sealed up and you don't risk damaging the new floor from any leaks. Once the shell is back on and the belly is insulated and installed then move inside to insulation, wiring, plumbing, reinstall the inner skins. Then the bulkheads and furniture, appliances can be installed. Some things will overlap like part of the plumbing and wiring must be done along with shell and belly replacement and some of it won't be finished until the furniture, bulkheads and appliances go back in.
Thanks for the list and advice. I need to put some thought into timing since we are heading into the cold time.

I am happy to hear that I should fix the windows and seal up the beast prior to pulling the frame, at least I can work those tasks on warmer winter days.

Would I be able to reposition my rear bath to the center when I pull everything or would I need to by new tanks etc?

It seems that the center bath is preferred by most on the forum and I can see why it would make a more attractive "master bedroom".

Do center baths have the " sag " that everyone notes with the rear bath?

Thanks!

Mikal
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:40 AM   #16
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Mikal the idea of repositioning the bath from rear to center has been thought of before. There are a lot of issues besides moving the tanks. Vent pipe locations running up through the roof, window locations, water heater locationa and the interior rear end cap is different. Your water heater location in the rear gets in the way of any bed that you would want to put in the rear. The two windows in the mid bedroom get in the way of a relocated mid bath. You would need to patch the current holes in th errof where the vent pipes exit and cut new holes for new vent pipes. The waste tanks would need to be relocated and new mounting pans & brackets built. A new belly pan would need to be made to cover the new location of waste tanks. Then you would need to make a new interior end cap and also your new rear bedroom would have only one window at thr rear of the trailer.

Yes center baths do suffer from the same sag just not as much. The same issue exists on all airstreams and that is the bumper cover directing water back against the shell causing it to leak into that connection point, rotting the floor and corroding the rear holddown plate and the frame. It's just that rear baths with the weight farther back put more stress on that point than center baths.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:59 PM   #17
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1976 31' Sovereign
Pittsburgh , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Mikal the idea of repositioning the bath from rear to center has been thought of before. There are a lot of issues besides moving the tanks. Vent pipe locations running up through the roof, window locations, water heater locationa and the interior rear end cap is different. Your water heater location in the rear gets in the way of any bed that you would want to put in the rear. The two windows in the mid bedroom get in the way of a relocated mid bath. You would need to patch the current holes in th errof where the vent pipes exit and cut new holes for new vent pipes. The waste tanks would need to be relocated and new mounting pans & brackets built. A new belly pan would need to be made to cover the new location of waste tanks. Then you would need to make a new interior end cap and also your new rear bedroom would have only one window at thr rear of the trailer.

Yes center baths do suffer from the same sag just not as much. The same issue exists on all airstreams and that is the bumper cover directing water back against the shell causing it to leak into that connection point, rotting the floor and corroding the rear holddown plate and the frame. It's just that rear baths with the weight farther back put more stress on that point than center baths.
I am glad to get answers to these questions now rather than half way through an ill-fated rehab.

Thanks again!

Mikal
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:21 PM   #18
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
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We were planning to change ours from a rear bath to a mid bath but gave up the idea because we couldn't get the storage we wanted with a mid bath due to the windows and because most of our hatches would have been rendered unusable. I didn't want to cover or relocate windows and we didn't want to lose the hatch storage. It is doable but as WC pointed out, it's a lot more work than leaving the bath in the original location. We spent some quality time with blue painters tape and some mock ups of appliances and cupboards, bathtub, etc made out of cardboard boxes to get a general idea of how much room we needed for areas, walkways, etc. It helped a lot to do that, and when we had what we thought we wanted we outlined areas with the tape as we worked on things. The tape is gone now (and I miss it) since we put the new floors in and are starting the building process. I may put new tape down since the floor is covered with rosin paper!

Kay
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:05 AM   #19
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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I split mine in the middle with a 45* saw cut, then glued screwed and used a piece of plywood for backing on the joint, just notched it out where it would interfere with cross members.

Aaron
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:49 AM   #20
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Wasagachris,

I looked over your thread where you pulled your shell, and had a couple of questions: If you disconnect the shell from the C-channel, it seems that the bottom edge of the shell would have very little meat for it to rest on when supported by the sawhorses. I'm guessing that it was resting on the cribbing, but wanted to confirm. This leads to the next question: How was the cribbing attached to the ribs? Did you drill a bunch of holes to make this happen?
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
Wasagachris,

I looked over your thread where you pulled your shell, and had a couple of questions: If you disconnect the shell from the C-channel, it seems that the bottom edge of the shell would have very little meat for it to rest on when supported by the sawhorses. I'm guessing that it was resting on the cribbing, but wanted to confirm. This leads to the next question: How was the cribbing attached to the ribs? Did you drill a bunch of holes to make this happen?
You are correct that the shell skin has little or no meat for it to rest on the sawhorses. Here is the set up: sawhorses with 4x4's spanning under the shell, 2x6 vertical spacer blocks attached at the bottom to the 4x4's and attached at the top to the 2x6 horizontal cribbing. The horizontal cribbing is attached to the shell ribs with carriage bolts. Yes I did drill holes into the ribs to attach the cribbing to the ribs with the carriage bolts.
For the end caps the C channel stays attached to the shell but the shell skin actually hangs down over the channel so I had to put small 2x4 spacers between the bottom of the C channel and the top of the 4x4's. I also used the vertical spacer blocks to attach the 4x4's to the cribbing.
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