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Old 05-27-2011, 11:54 AM   #1
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1964 22' Safari
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Bracing for 'Shell-Off' on 60s safari

Just wondering if anyone who has raised the shell on their trailer has any last minute advise before I build the braces to lift the shell off my 64 safari. Any photos would be helpful. I am nervous about lifting it.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:17 PM   #2
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I lifted mine with a minimal amount of braces. 1 cross 2x6 a few inces off the floor at the last bow, another at the front bow and one above the wheel wells. I tied those 3 cross members with 4 - 2x4's, 2 on each side, front to rear. The front-to-rear were simply meant to keep the foward and rear cross members from twisting over as I jacked under each of them.

Each of the cross members were bolted thru the ribs with a pair of 1/4-20 bolts/nuts and washers.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:09 PM   #3
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Agree. When I did it I put two bolts on each 2x6 end to prevent twisting.
The main point of bracing, IMHO, is not so much to keep the shell from warping.. it is to support the weight of the shell.
You will see when you jack it up that the shell wont bend or twist much - if at all..
Just try to keep the weight as evenly distributed as you can.. piece of cake if you don't mind getting dirty.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:11 PM   #4
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Did it myself with two floor jacks and 4 jack stands. no problem. Just make sure to do it slowly to make sure you got all the rivets. You can do it! If you want some pics let me know and I will pm them to you.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:18 PM   #5
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Thanks all, much appreciated. Some photos would be great marzboy! Did you all put the bolts thru one side of the U-shaped rib or thru both?
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:19 PM   #6
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My situation was so bad that I had to brace twice. First an emergency bracing just to get the shell weight off the chassis, then a second to lift and support.

Problems that I had to overcome:
1) Under the cross braces (bolted to the shell frames on each end) were where the jack and supports went. So after it is jacked up and supported.. where is the weight supported? On the jack stands (I used cinder blocks and 2x6 blocks.. a bunch of them). Where are the jack stands (or blocks)? On the floor.
So you have your saw horses and I want to transfer the weight from the jack stands to the 4x4s. The jack stands are in the way and they are supporting the shell.
2) The second issue was.. the cross braces are above the level of the bottom of the shell so you cant put the cross braces directly on the 4x4s. You need something else between the 4x4s and the cross braces.
I solved both of these problems thus:

Knee walls that span under 2 cross braces.

It is kinda hard to tell in the pic but there are knee walls on each side and each of them span under 2 cross braces.
Notice that the knee walls are resting on boards that are sitting on saw horses.

What this allows you to do is to place a beam in the middle of the trailer under and between the two cross braces and jack there. And you can put the supports (jack stands) anywhere inbetween where the knee walls are and between the cross braces so that the support for the shell is entirely out of the way of the knee braces and the 4x4s.

It solves the second problem by giving you a spacer between the cross braces and the 4x4s so you dont bend up the bottom of the shell.

I'd build 4 knee walls. Two for the back and two for the front.
Then with 4 cross braces you can do this method.
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:42 PM   #7
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Hi Knox I did carridge bolts thru the ribs and screwed "L" angle to the side of the ribs to keep everything straight.
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:58 PM   #8
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Wow, I'm feeling inadequate...
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:06 PM   #9
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or you could build a deck inside your trailer!

I think mine was overkill, tips; make sure you can lift it high enough to clear the wheel wells and take it slow. Bear in mind if you just bought the lumber it's going to be shrinking and moving with the season(s) anyway so being on the 1/64" isn't going to matter that much.

Good luck.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:52 PM   #10
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Or, you could lift it through the vent & hang it from a tree......
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:33 AM   #11
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Wow, thanks for all the help. My plan is to brace it up and put on sawhorses then drive the undercarriage out, cut a new subfloor using the templates, and send the frame off for sandblasting and POR-15. Then new axle and back under. I wonder how hard it will be to get the undercarriage back exactly under the shell when the time comes? I guess I will find out.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:28 AM   #12
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Measure everything and take lots of pictures!
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxvegas View Post
Wow, thanks for all the help. My plan is to brace it up and put on sawhorses then drive the undercarriage out, cut a new subfloor using the templates, and send the frame off for sandblasting and POR-15. Then new axle and back under. I wonder how hard it will be to get the undercarriage back exactly under the shell when the time comes? I guess I will find out.
It won't be hard. As you are backing it in you will see the side of the shell and the edge of the trailer and be able to make small adjustments as you back it in.
If you are off just a tad, the shell will move itself or you can rack it over manually a little as you are lowering it.
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