Bolts in the C Channel

[Greg1410]

Getting ready to put my subfloor back in. The edges of my old subfloor were pretty rotted in many places - so I have a couple questions on alignment:
1. Should the new plywood floor extend and be flush with the end of the outriggers? Or extend over a bit?
2. Should the plywood be seated all the way in the c-channel? When removing the old subfloor, it looked like the plywood sat about 1 inch into the c-channel, leaving 1/2 of the c-channel empty. But there could have been some shifting due to the rotted subfloor
3. Based on the answers to the, should the outer edge of the c-channel line up flush with the end of the outrigger?

Would appreciate any input here.
Thanks so much,
Greg

[Dingo Girl]

I did mine shell on and cut some small pieces from the old floor then stuck them in under the c channel at each outrigger then used Kant Twist clamps to hold it all together as I did the work on it.
This prevented the shell from dropping.

[MAJORJDB]

I'm replacing a rotted floor section (18"w x 28"l) under the fridge/cabinet on my 1989 Excella and plan to place a piece of 3/16" steel to span the outriggers, bolt through the c-channel, bolt to the outriggers (j-bolts) and run self-tap screw through the new plywood. The plywood will then be notched to fit around the new c-channel bolts(fitting the plywood into the channel). I think with the plywood attached to the new steel support everything should hold together safely, any thoughts appreciated.
The rest of the OSB floor has survived the 2-1/2 LB hammer test and is dry. However, there are some black (mildew) stained spots near the door, any advice on killing/sealing this area to prevent possible spores in the air before I cover the OSB with new flooring? Thanks
JDB

[SeeMore]

There are a few choices for locking the remaining surface mold in place and preventing it's spread. Here are a couple:

http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/...-petrifier.php

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...-wood-hardener

[Devananda-E9]

Clorox

[Devananda-E9]

Oh, and when dry seal the wood with a good penetrating sealer so that any further moisture beads up like a waxed surface.I did this on my '87 Excella 32. Works great.

[Don Doucette]

I'm surprised that AS would use OSB at the factory for the floor deck- its not known to be very durable in damp conditions. The life of OSB can be extended by thoroughly sealing all surfaces after cutting and fitting prior to installation. That's all 6 sides! Don

[J. Morgan]

There was a time when plywood experienced a significant price spike, a crazy spike.

Even today where prices of OSB and plywood are in more of a parity, newly constructed homes are filled with OSB.

There was a time where OSB was thought to be a good product and the way of the future....


Talis gentium ceciderunt.

[Tbeck11931]

Spray the mold down with undiluted white distilled vinegar and let it set for an hour.
I them mixed bleach and water and sprayed it on light covering.
This seemed to have killed everything

[Siegmann]

Originally Posted by Tbeck11931

Spray the mold down with undiluted white distilled vinegar and let it set for an hour.
I them mixed bleach and water and sprayed it on light covering.
This seemed to have killed everything

Fortunately it didn't quite kill "everything". I guess you had good ventilation or diluted the bleach well enough.

Bleach + Vinegar = Toxic Chlorine Gas. While the combination does create a good disinfectant, these two common cleaning agents should never be used at the same time. Why: Adding any weak acid to bleach will release toxic chlorine and chloramine vapors.

[Rayvynus]

I just gutted my 74 sovereign...I cut three rows down the subfloor, middle and 4 inches from edge. I recut the edge closer to c channel with sawzall right near it...was able to pry old plywood in chunks out with a nail puller, flat bar and hammer. This was time consuming but worked. Bolts and screws have to be cut out with zip disk or sawzall, careful with sawzall if it bounces you get a nice gouge in lower belly pane. did that once oops... Have it set on off cuts of plywood on all outriggers to keep hull stable. Adding new steel in center of frame for new subfloor. ALWAYS have edges of subfloor on frame, glue together at all seems. Always have new subfloor sideways, never put plywood the lengthways, it's shear strength is from end to end. So as the structure moves it can absorb the vibration. I will be giving my new subfloor 3 coats of protection, edges is a must. Use cardboard templates to get curves right and cut plywood with a jigsaw to match. New bolts through c-channel through subfloor on edges is a must. Once floor is in you can safely remove belly pan edge pieces and bolt floor down, then just pop the pan back up. I will also be using pl 300 subfloor glue where it contacts frame for massive extra strength, along with new screws.

[emck]

Wondering about frame on technique. The rear corner of my AS is rotted. I've cut some of the subfloor plywood out to check things out. Should I replace the entire back sheet of plywood side to side? And how do I sneak it into the c channel if I do. I haven't taken the bottom skins off yet as I am kind of scared to. Will this become an evidently easier task once I take the skins off the interior? I am dreading the replacement of the subfloor, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Erin
New owner of a 1983 limited 34'
Enthusiastic though sometimes sceptical of my abilities.

[J. Morgan]

It is not that hard to replace the last sheet of plywood. You will be able to push the frame down and slide the new piece in through the back of the trailer.

You will have to remove the interior skins to do the job.

Superat stultitia.