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Old 02-21-2016, 08:15 PM   #15
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1994 34' Excella
San Antonio , Texas
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At the end of last year I removed the carpet and cut out two each 2'x2' sections of plywood where water leakage along the sides near the front of the A/S caused minor rot to the floor. It was soft upon walking on these two small areas. A template was made from cardboard and the new plywood was notched and beveled (using a wood file) to accomodate the tight fit (bolts and C-Channel lips. I used a rubber mallot to hammer in the plywood then secured the plywood with self tapping screws. I completed the task because the frame started to separate on the front end. We took a three hundred mile trip afterwards and the work appears to be holding. Good luck on your project. jd
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:16 PM   #16
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If not wanting to take the belly wrap off, why not just cut out some small access holes for getting a wrench underneath?
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delongj View Post
At the end of last year I removed the carpet and cut out two each 2'x2' sections of plywood where water leakage along the sides near the front of the A/S caused minor rot to the floor. It was soft upon walking on these two small areas. A template was made from cardboard and the new plywood was notched and beveled (using a wood file) to accomodate the tight fit (bolts and C-Channel lips. I used a rubber mallot to hammer in the plywood then secured the plywood with self tapping screws. I completed the task because the frame started to separate on the front end. We took a three hundred mile trip afterwards and the work appears to be holding. Good luck on your project. jd
Always have been curious about front end separation. Do you have any pics?
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:27 AM   #18
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I guess my earlier comment didn't go far enough ! the bolts through the out riggers tie body INCLUDING th side wall to the frame ! the side walls help to support the frame . the plywood flooring ( fastened to the crossmembers ) add lateral support.
the walls support the frame , the frame supports the walls = much stronger together than separate ! the original designers thought this through = 50 year old tt's that still hold together . do it right / do it wrong it's your trailer , the bolts serve a purpose !!!!!!!
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:14 PM   #19
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1991 34' Excella
Yukon , Oklahoma
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Interior skins removed, belly pan off as well. I have read somewhere that once I remove these boots that the shell could crush in the C-channel. Has anyone heard of this? Do I need to brace this some way?
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:43 AM   #20
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I only redid sections, but I say this will not happen.

You may need wedges for either side of the plywood you are slipping in, but the shell will not crush in.


Talis gentium ceciderunt.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:55 AM   #21
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1973 23' Safari
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Getting ready to put my subfloor back in. The edges of my old subfloor were pretty rotted in many places - so I have a couple questions on alignment:
1. Should the new plywood floor extend and be flush with the end of the outriggers? Or extend over a bit?
2. Should the plywood be seated all the way in the c-channel? When removing the old subfloor, it looked like the plywood sat about 1 inch into the c-channel, leaving 1/2 of the c-channel empty. But there could have been some shifting due to the rotted subfloor
3. Based on the answers to the, should the outer edge of the c-channel line up flush with the end of the outrigger?

Would appreciate any input here.
Thanks so much,
Greg
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:28 AM   #22
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I did mine shell on and cut some small pieces from the old floor then stuck them in under the c channel at each outrigger then used Kant Twist clamps to hold it all together as I did the work on it.
This prevented the shell from dropping.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:29 AM   #23
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1989 32' Excella
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I'm replacing a rotted floor section (18"w x 28"l) under the fridge/cabinet on my 1989 Excella and plan to place a piece of 3/16" steel to span the outriggers, bolt through the c-channel, bolt to the outriggers (j-bolts) and run self-tap screw through the new plywood. The plywood will then be notched to fit around the new c-channel bolts(fitting the plywood into the channel). I think with the plywood attached to the new steel support everything should hold together safely, any thoughts appreciated.
The rest of the OSB floor has survived the 2-1/2 LB hammer test and is dry. However, there are some black (mildew) stained spots near the door, any advice on killing/sealing this area to prevent possible spores in the air before I cover the OSB with new flooring? Thanks
JDB
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:44 AM   #24
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There are a few choices for locking the remaining surface mold in place and preventing it's spread. Here are a couple:

http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/...-petrifier.php

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...-wood-hardener
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:31 PM   #25
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Clorox
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:34 PM   #26
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Oh, and when dry seal the wood with a good penetrating sealer so that any further moisture beads up like a waxed surface.I did this on my '87 Excella 32. Works great.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:50 AM   #27
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I'm surprised that AS would use OSB at the factory for the floor deck- its not known to be very durable in damp conditions. The life of OSB can be extended by thoroughly sealing all surfaces after cutting and fitting prior to installation. That's all 6 sides! Don
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:54 AM   #28
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There was a time when plywood experienced a significant price spike, a crazy spike.

Even today where prices of OSB and plywood are in more of a parity, newly constructed homes are filled with OSB.

There was a time where OSB was thought to be a good product and the way of the future....


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