Body Separation

HowieE · 08-18-2007, 04:38 PM

This pucture shows how the body on my 19 34ft. has come loose from the floor and frame. When the trailer is hitched to the truck this gap srinks to 0. However when there is little or no load on the jack the gap opens as shown.

Looking into the gap i can see the channel that goes around the floor and it appears to still be attached to the frame. Thus I think the seperation is the skin and framing has come free of the floor.

I am considering removing the interior skin behind the coach and seeing if there is material to reattach things.

Any thoughts?

2airishuman · 08-18-2007, 04:58 PM

as i understand it....

the initial inspection and repair for this

'front end separation' starts from the outside.

-remove the blue trim and the beltline at least as far back at the curved segments...

-at this point most of the failed or stretched rivet holes will be visible.

-then make the decision to pull the sofa, mouse fur and lower sections of inner skin.

the inner skin isn't really contributing much structural support in this area.

so new holes/rivets can be placed interspaced in the outer skin, IF those lower segments aren't completely replaced.

the frame has 'flexed' some as a result of using appropriate w/d gear...

so this is an example of just how UNDER designed the modern a/s trailer is...

of course someone will blame this on over hitching or too much truck..

that tired, lame excuse is a complete load of crap.

front end separation like this, and the skin tearing seen in the bunk house units...

IS the new rear end separation issue revisited.

a/s has incrementally removed rivets, and bracing and structural elements in the name of...

lean/efficient design

to the extent that we are towing eggshells made from paper mache...

cheers
2air'

**wahoonc** · 08-18-2007, 07:30 PM

HowieE,
On my 75 the problem was an unknown leak had rotted out the floor and the bolts were missing

apparently they had rusted and sheared. If yours is built the way mine was (and no reason not to believe it) there is a large steel plate at the front. There is an aluminum channel that sits on top of the plywood. This whole assembly is thru bolted with 2 good sized bolts. If the bolts are loose, the plywood is bad, or the bolts have pulled thru the channel you will get problems like you have.

Here is a Picture of mine with the plywood out. The big black thing in the center is the steel plate. The bolts go in about where the frame comes up at an angle.

After taking another look at your picture...are the rivets in the plate sheared? Do you have the plate?

Aaron

ArtStream · 08-18-2007, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wahoonc

HowieE,
On my 75 the problem was an unknown leak had rotted out the floor and the bolts were missing

apparently they had rusted and sheared. If yours is built the way mine was (and no reason not to believe it) there is a large steel plate at the front. There is an aluminum channel that sits on top of the plywood. This whole assembly is thru bolted with 2 good sized bolts. If the bolts are loose, the plywood is bad, or the bolts have pulled thru the channel you will get problems like you have.

Here is a Picture of mine with the plywood out. The big black thing in the center is the steel plate. The bolts go in about where the frame comes up at an angle.

After taking another look at your picture...are the rivets in the plate sheared? Do you have the plate?

Aaron

Hi Aaron!
The 1991 does not have a center plate like yours does.

**wahoonc** · 08-19-2007, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Artstream

Hi Aaron!
The 1991 does not have a center plate like yours does.

OUCH! I am not an engineer (and I sometimes question if Airstream has any on payroll) but I cannot see how you could eliminate that plate and still have a durable system...but that is my opinion.

Aaron

ArtStream · 08-19-2007, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wahoonc

OUCH! I am not an engineer (and I sometimes question if Airstream has any on payroll) but I cannot see how you could eliminate that plate and still have a durable system...but that is my opinion.

Aaron

Don't get me started on seperation.
I've seen things no AS owner should ever have seen

ArtStream · 08-18-2007, 07:35 PM

Yea, what 2air said.

There is a standard fix for this all to often issue.
Once you remove the belting take some photo's, you may need to add a panel to the front area between the battery boxes.

I spent some time at the factory a few months back and most owners were there for just such a defect. About 1,500 to 1,800 in factory repairs, 99% labor,

Michael

Pick · 08-19-2007, 06:37 AM

Airstream folk do not subscribe to the "throwaway" philosophy of life. As such we are constantly working on ways to repair or improve our Airstreams, much like Harley Davidson folk.

There are very few "perfect" products out there. Those that think they can build a perfect Airstream should start a business that takes new Airstreams, tears them apart and rebuilds them to perfection. Stand by for sticker shock!

mello mike · 08-19-2007, 09:05 AM

Sorry to hear about your problem. When I saw the title of the thread I assumed it was another 1970s era Airstream with this problem. I'm surprised this is still an issue with newer Airstreams. You'd of thought Mother Ship would have learned their lesson by now.

**wahoonc** · 08-19-2007, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pick

Airstream folk do not subscribe to the "throwaway" philosophy of life. As such we are constantly working on ways to repair or improve our Airstreams, much like Harley Davidson folk.

There are very few "perfect" products out there. Those that think they can build a perfect Airstream should start a business that takes new Airstreams, tears them apart and rebuilds them to perfection. Stand by for sticker shock!

That is one of the main reasons I went vintage...for less than 1/4 the cost of a new 31' classic. I can completely gut, upgrade and rebuild my vintage unit. For about 1/3-1/2 the cost of a new one I could pay someone else to do it for me. (I work cheap

)

Aaron

Ganglin · 08-19-2007, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 2Airishuman
that tired, lame excuse is xxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
Last edited by john hd : Yesterday at 10:25 PM

2air said a bad word - I'm telling Mommy.....

henw · 09-09-2007, 04:06 PM

What is a front hold down plate and how difficult to install is it?

Tom

ArtStream · 09-09-2007, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henw

What is a front hold down plate and how difficult to install is it?

Tom

I'm not sure a hold-down plate can be installed on models with a utility box welded between the front brace.

Older models did not have the utility box.

M

ArtStream · 09-09-2007, 05:54 PM

"The problem I see with this approach is that row of revits will become the future seperation fail point. If that happens there will be no way to cover the failure."

HowiE,
I see no way around this delemia, the attachment point will always be the point of failure.

I attached a piece of flat stock behind the exiseting C channel for reinforcement and added a new piece of sheet aluminum skin.

Your plan to add a band sounds like a good one.

Michael