LOVE IT! I'll be wearing it this weekend at the NJ State Rally. next i want a print to add to my Airstream art collection that hangs in my Airstream room.
I haul things and need the 3/4 ton. If I go camping or a long trip I like to take things with me so I am self supportive. I would be overloaded with a half ton and a bed full of generator and tools....and camping stuff with a Gorrila slide and Bed cover that weight almost 500# without anything in them. Thats why I was asking about the 3/4 ton. I go prepared for anything....I am the one who usually is ask to help out when others are in trouble. I have always been that way and always will be. I take tools and a 250lb genny....But its quiet..lol...HONDA Eu6500i....its almost as quiet as the 2000i...but I need the load capacity. A half ton won't do it. Thank Andy..you answer my question. I talk too much...lol
As it stands right now, based on the research I've done, the only 1/2 ton truck which stands half a chance of towing a 34'r is the Ford F-150, because it has a fully boxed frame. That said, even with a 10,000lb tow rating, I still wouldn't use a 1/2 ton to tow that much weight.
My 2005 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton CTD was rated to tow 13,000lbs. My 2001 Dodge Ram 1 ton CTD is rated to 14,300lbs. You only want to tow about 80% of the vehicle's maximum tow rating.
Towing a 34'r with a 1/2 ton is just plain dangerous and can get someone seriously injured/killed. When towing, make sure your vehicle is properly equipped, ie: proper brake controller, proper sized tow vehicle brakes (most manufacturers have tow packages), jake brake for insurance, if you're towing a decent sized trailer.
Hope that helps with your decision.
Frederic
__________________ SFC Frederic Lynes 1971 Sovereign International 2004 F-350 King Ranch EX-WBCCI # 8371 AIR # 8239
As it stands right now, based on the research I've done, the only 1/2 ton truck which stands half a chance of towing a 34'r is the Ford F-150, because it has a fully boxed frame. That said, even with a 10,000lb tow rating, I still wouldn't use a 1/2 ton to tow that much weight.
My 2005 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton CTD was rated to tow 13,000lbs. My 2001 Dodge Ram 1 ton CTD is rated to 14,300lbs. You only want to tow about 80% of the vehicle's maximum tow rating.
Towing a 34'r with a 1/2 ton is just plain dangerous and can get someone seriously injured/killed. When towing, make sure your vehicle is properly equipped, ie: proper brake controller, proper sized tow vehicle brakes (most manufacturers have tow packages), jake brake for insurance, if you're towing a decent sized trailer.
Hope that helps with your decision.
Frederic
I agree completely with Bigger is better when towing for safety sake. I am a fleet manager and understand pickup truck capabilities. I was just worried about this separation thing with the AS. I would tow with a ONE TON dually if it would not tear up the AS. I carry stuff....So I need more truck. MORE brakes....is a biggie too. The 80% rule is a good thing to go buy with regards to safety.
I agree completely with Bigger is better when towing for safety sake. I am a fleet manager and understand pickup truck capabilities. I was just worried about this separation thing with the AS. I would tow with a ONE TON dually if it would not tear up the AS. I carry stuff....So I need more truck. MORE brakes....is a biggie too. The 80% rule is a good thing to go buy with regards to safety.
Duallies are a no-no for towing Airstreams, unless it is one of the 5th wheel models. With twice as many tires in the back to run over bumps in the road, and a very stiff suspension, they will eat your trailer's lunch in short order. BTW, my 3/4 ton pickup has 2000 pound payload. I'm not sure when 3/4 ton stopped equalling 1500 pounds. Even with that, towing capacity is still 8500 pounds.
I ask this because We are making plans to buy a new tow vehicle in the not too far distant future. I was thinking of a 3/4 ton to pull a 25' Safari. And...We haul a bunch of stuff in the bed with a heavy canopy and tool boxes also?
My solution was to buy a Class V AirSafe air hitch. It delivers everything the manufacturer promises, and allows the use of my weight transfer bars. With this hitch, my 3/4 ton truck's harsh suspension is effectively isolated from the trailer's. Each gyrate independently over the potholes and railroad tracks of today's highways. For me, it is the answer to the dilemma you write so insightfully about.
As the repair continues I may have lucked out a bit better than some. There was no indication the floor had seperated from the frame, all floor bolts were in tact. I did however remove the 2 that were between the battery boxes in order to mount a 1 1/4 in Al. angle to replace the standing web of the floor channel, torn off during the deterioration. This angle is now held down by 4 new bolts and an additionial flat strip of Al. to act as a large flange under the bolts.
The attached picture shows the angle in place before the bolts were set. I used under belly revits through the outer skin and into the angle because the larger diameter would offer additional bearing area against future failure.
As the repair continues I may have lucked out a bit better than some. There was no indication the floor had seperated from the frame, all floor bolts were in tact. I did however remove the 2 that were between the battery boxes in order to mount a 1 1/4 in Al. angle to replace the standing web of the floor channel, torn off during the deterioration. This angle is now held down by 4 new bolts and an additionial flat strip of Al. to act as a large flange under the bolts.
The attached picture shows the angle in place before the bolts were set. I used under belly revits through the outer skin and into the angle because the larger diameter would offer additional bearing area against future failure.
Lookin good HowieE.
As mentioned by others I also have a ClassV Airhitch.
Put 40,000 on it after I did a front end repair. The front end is still tight.
700 lb bars, E350 7.3l td, dually.
Michael
2Air, you rock !
__________________
Click hereAirstream Posters & Tee's byMicheal Joseph Depraida WBCCI No 8892 | VAC | KC2TQU
Is that front hold down plate a cure-all? I thought AS was using heavier panels? Is this problem more likely to occur in heavier (Classic) or longer 31-34 footers? Just curious. What can be done to prevent? How expensive would it be for AS to build the fix right into the trailer (might be naive here). Would sure make me sick--best of luck
Is that front hold down plate a cure-all? I thought AS was using heavier panels? Is this problem more likely to occur in heavier (Classic) or longer 31-34 footers? Just curious. What can be done to prevent? How expensive would it be for AS to build the fix right into the trailer (might be naive here). Would sure make me sick--best of luck
That problem can occur on any size Airstream.
It's usual cause, is from vibration.
That vibration can be a combination of super duty tow vehicle, using excessively rated hitch bars, along with lack of proper running gear balance.
The world has changed since the 1950's and 1960's and 3/4 and 1 ton diesel trucks are the norm today. Wouldn't it be nice if Airstream would re-engineer their trailers to be able to take the strain? I imagine all of the other SOBs have.
We don't tow with cars and station waggons anymore. (except at Can-AM RV in Canada Welcome to Can-Am RV Centre: I particurly like the Jag and the little Mercedes towing a 34 footer) Because of weight restrictions and safety concerns, we don't use 1/2 ton trucks to tow with anymore. We don't travel on the old non-interstate highways for the most part anymore. If I paid $40 to $90 thousand dollars for a new Airstream and it promptly proceded to rip apart, I would be very disapointed.
On the subject of the 34 foot Airstreams, I would like to know what other truck other than a "heavy duty" could pull the thing adequately and safely? I tried to pull mine with a 3/4 ton long wheelbase Chevy with a 350 gas engine and it wasn't up to the task (the truck chasis was, though).
AIRSTREAM - modify your trailers so that they can be towed with modern trucks.
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