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Old 09-10-2007, 01:16 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by henw
This is depressing. Any preventive measures that can be taken.
Tom
Tom

There are those, noted above, who would suggest staying home and not using your trailer as the best maintenance. However if you have over 115,000 miles of travel to points like Alaska, all of Canada, and most of our back roads you got to except some ware.

The pictures below are from inside the trailer between the battery boxes. The upper edge of the floor channel on the right has seperated from the channel and the revits on the left side have all come out. The whole front assembly has moved forward about 5/8 of an in. in the area. I plan to install a strong Al. angles to the base of the studs and Al. angle to replace the original upright piece of the floor channel and fasten the outer skin to it.

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Old 09-11-2007, 10:02 AM   #30
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howie, you seem to be writing a new book on front end separation. i may have the same problem with my '93. i've been noticing flex and gapping between frame and shell during the hitching -unhitching process and have chose to plant my head firmly in the sand on this problem.

thanks for sharing your experience as i will have to go down this same road this winter.
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Old 09-11-2007, 04:45 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by henw
"Beautiful example of what happens when the tow vehicle is super heavy duty, enough to tow the Queen Mary, and using hitch bars with excessive ratings.

This damage will happen every time, just give the coach some travel time in miles."


This is depressing. Any preventive measures that can be taken.

Tom
The overload springs should be removed from the tow vehicle, and, select a hitch bar rating that is absolutely minimal, like 550 to 600 pounds.

Also, make sure the axles are good, and the running gear is properly balanced.

Andy
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Old 09-11-2007, 05:58 PM   #32
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Andy....Weak hitch bars....I understand why.. So your saying its much better to tow an AS with a 1/2 ton than a 3/4 ton even????
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:00 PM   #33
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I ask this because We are making plans to buy a new tow vehicle in the not too far distant future. I was thinking of a 3/4 ton to pull a 25' Safari. And...We haul a bunch of stuff in the bed with a heavy canopy and tool boxes also?
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:34 PM   #34
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Red face

I haul things and need the 3/4 ton. If I go camping or a long trip I like to take things with me so I am self supportive. I would be overloaded with a half ton and a bed full of generator and tools....and camping stuff with a Gorrila slide and Bed cover that weight almost 500# without anything in them. Thats why I was asking about the 3/4 ton. I go prepared for anything....I am the one who usually is ask to help out when others are in trouble. I have always been that way and always will be. I take tools and a 250lb genny....But its quiet..lol...HONDA Eu6500i....its almost as quiet as the 2000i...but I need the load capacity. A half ton won't do it. Thank Andy..you answer my question. I talk too much...lol
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:58 PM   #35
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DFord79,

As it stands right now, based on the research I've done, the only 1/2 ton truck which stands half a chance of towing a 34'r is the Ford F-150, because it has a fully boxed frame. That said, even with a 10,000lb tow rating, I still wouldn't use a 1/2 ton to tow that much weight.

My 2005 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton CTD was rated to tow 13,000lbs. My 2001 Dodge Ram 1 ton CTD is rated to 14,300lbs. You only want to tow about 80% of the vehicle's maximum tow rating.

Towing a 34'r with a 1/2 ton is just plain dangerous and can get someone seriously injured/killed. When towing, make sure your vehicle is properly equipped, ie: proper brake controller, proper sized tow vehicle brakes (most manufacturers have tow packages), jake brake for insurance, if you're towing a decent sized trailer.

Hope that helps with your decision.

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Old 09-11-2007, 07:13 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StingrayL82
DFord79,

As it stands right now, based on the research I've done, the only 1/2 ton truck which stands half a chance of towing a 34'r is the Ford F-150, because it has a fully boxed frame. That said, even with a 10,000lb tow rating, I still wouldn't use a 1/2 ton to tow that much weight.

My 2005 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton CTD was rated to tow 13,000lbs. My 2001 Dodge Ram 1 ton CTD is rated to 14,300lbs. You only want to tow about 80% of the vehicle's maximum tow rating.

Towing a 34'r with a 1/2 ton is just plain dangerous and can get someone seriously injured/killed. When towing, make sure your vehicle is properly equipped, ie: proper brake controller, proper sized tow vehicle brakes (most manufacturers have tow packages), jake brake for insurance, if you're towing a decent sized trailer.

Hope that helps with your decision.

Frederic
I agree completely with Bigger is better when towing for safety sake. I am a fleet manager and understand pickup truck capabilities. I was just worried about this separation thing with the AS. I would tow with a ONE TON dually if it would not tear up the AS. I carry stuff....So I need more truck. MORE brakes....is a biggie too. The 80% rule is a good thing to go buy with regards to safety.
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFord79
I agree completely with Bigger is better when towing for safety sake. I am a fleet manager and understand pickup truck capabilities. I was just worried about this separation thing with the AS. I would tow with a ONE TON dually if it would not tear up the AS. I carry stuff....So I need more truck. MORE brakes....is a biggie too. The 80% rule is a good thing to go buy with regards to safety.
Duallies are a no-no for towing Airstreams, unless it is one of the 5th wheel models. With twice as many tires in the back to run over bumps in the road, and a very stiff suspension, they will eat your trailer's lunch in short order. BTW, my 3/4 ton pickup has 2000 pound payload. I'm not sure when 3/4 ton stopped equalling 1500 pounds. Even with that, towing capacity is still 8500 pounds.
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:40 PM   #38
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Camel

Quote:
Originally Posted by DFord79
Andy....Weak hitch bars....I understand why.. So your saying its much better to tow an AS with a 1/2 ton than a 3/4 ton even????
A camel.
Towing with a camel will keep your Airstream front-end in tip-top shape.


Michael
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:41 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by overlander63
Duallies are a no-no for towing Airstreams, unless it is one of the 5th wheel models. With twice as many tires in the back to run over bumps in the road, and a very stiff suspension, they will eat your trailer's lunch in short order....
Good! That'll give me an excuse to redo the trailer the right way, when the time comes, LOL!!!!!!

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Old 09-11-2007, 07:42 PM   #40
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Quote:
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A camel.
Towing with a camel will keep your Airstream front-end in tip-top shape.


Michael
So, is that a 3/4 ton, or 1/2 ton camel?
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:43 PM   #41
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Duallies are a no-no for towing Airstreams, unless it is one of the 5th wheel models. With twice as many tires in the back to run over bumps in the road, and a very stiff suspension, they will eat your trailer's lunch in short order. BTW, my 3/4 ton pickup has 2000 pound payload. I'm not sure when 3/4 ton stopped equalling 1500 pounds. Even with that, towing capacity is still 8500 pounds.
Actually most 3/4 tons have a load capacity of 3,000#'s give or take a couple hundred depending on the trucks configuration. One ton single wheels have around 4,100 give or take...and one ton duallys have between 4,800 and 5700 # carrying capacities. Just for the records. Most half tons are reated from 1400 to 3,000# if configured proper. The 3,000 half ton is only Ford tho....the rest are less.
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:35 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The overload springs should be removed from the tow vehicle, and, select a hitch bar rating that is absolutely minimal, like 550 to 600 pounds...
the era of long light a/s ended exactly 25 years ago...

when gvwr began to exceed 6000 lbs and tongue weights creeped over 600 lbs.

and that's exactly how current the above recommendation is.

SPRINGS

i went by the ford dealer 2 days ago and asked them to remove my "overload springs"

the service guys said "HUH?"

see there aren't ANY overload springs on modern trucks...

and aftermarket 'overload springs' are designed and mounted such that they are INACTIVE until the regular stack is very very compressed.

what there is is a stack of leafs...

so i asked them IF they could remove the "extra" leafs...

again they said "HUH?"

see the leaf stack is generated based on truck weight and towing capacity.

there aren't any extra leafs and just exactly which one would they remove?

and they wouldn't even CONSIDER removing a leaf on a properly rated vehicle....

it would be dangerous, affect handling, reduce load carrying, drop the rear end and do other DANGEROUS things...

if even one person follows the ridiculous suggestion to remove suspension bits, IT IS 1 TOO MANY

SPRING BARS

spring bars should be selected based on the tongue weight...

many modern a/s over 25 foot have tongue masses from 700-1300 lbs...

find one hitch maker that will suggest using bars rated LESS than tongue weight...

i'm waiting.....

back here, when doing my initial weigh in someone commented that the set up was "perfect" and 'safety was maximized'

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ers-17984.html

(i was using 1000lb bars FULLY FLEXED on a 1200lb tongue...)

followed by making the silly suggestion i reduce the bars to 750 lbs...

never mind that 750s didn't even exist for my hitch then...

or that by using inadequate bars the steering axle would UNLOAD thereby reducing control and SAFETY

while needlessly overloading the drive axle..

of course it was also suggested i REDUCE truck tire pressure UNDER the established load rating

again an UNSAFE recommendation that ford, bfgoodrich and a/s would NOT support.

so it is NOW time to STOP giving 25 year old advice based on 30 year old data...

cheers
2air'

there ARE effective ways to reduce receiver/hitch vibration...

mor-ryde offers a rubber shackle replacement that reduces vibration and air -ride provides another option.

neither alter the tow vehicle in a dangerous manner.
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