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Old 04-10-2015, 11:51 AM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
Fairbanks , Alaska
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
Body lift and tank questions

I will be lifting the body off of a 1968 Safari. I have read a ton of threads, and it seem like I have a grasp on the minimal reinforcements needed inside the body. I will be lifting with jacks and placing on saw horses, then getting 3 buddies to help me put it on the ground.

First question: The edges of the body sure look like they wrap under the frame. Is this a problem when you pull off the body. I have had 3 people look at it, and it sure doesn't appear to be the belly pan wrapping up. Do I just remove the rivets on the bottom and will it just slip right off?

Second question: I have seen both people leaving the C channel attached to the body, and people leaving it attached to the frame. Which is "correct"?

Third question: How much does the body on this weigh (sans insulation, wire, inner skin, and AC)?

Third question: We will be putting in a composting toilet, and will be removing the blackwater tank and replacing it with a greywater tank. Is there a direct replacement?
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:54 PM   #2
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1966 17' Caravel
Newport , North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,286
Pretty cool first the belly pan covers the bottom and the band around the bottom edge covers the rivets holdin the skin to the c channel and the belly pan there is also a hold down plate on the hitch end. C channel of or on your preference since I removed the rivets anyway I pulled the skin and the channel was attached to the floor. You will have some hidden rivets by the door so use caution! Also before you start Make a template of the front and rear floor (curves are hard to do without it) use some 1/4 inch paneling. There are bolts through the c channel hold it to the frame and floor so cut those puppies. There are lots of threads with the how too!.
You can do it just take your time and lots of pictures like csi pictures!
Welcome and enjoy
Cliff
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Old 04-11-2015, 12:53 AM   #3
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1967 22' Safari
Fairbanks , Alaska
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
Thanks! Wouldn't it be easier to template the floor with the body off, but channel still on? Then I could just lay the new plywood on top of the channel and trace around it from underneath on the outside edge? I have some structural repairs to do before I start this (snow load popped some rivets on the ceiling), but will probably start drilling rivets on Monday. Hopefully if I can get the body off by next weekend, we can take the frame in for blasting.

Thanks again,

Seth
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Old 04-11-2015, 05:21 AM   #4
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1966 17' Caravel
Newport , North Carolina
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Seth if there is enough floor for a template that would be cool but in most cases the floor on one end or both is for the most part history! Frank of frankstrailerworks has an awesome method for templating the curves adding the area of the channel with a piece of wood of the same width. The drill and about 15 bits will work for most of the rivets and for the hidden ones by the door a wood chisel works great! By that time you will be thinking sledge hammer and crowbar but that would be a great time for a beer and a break!
Cliff
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:00 AM   #5
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,137
Hello badpaddler. Welcome to Air Forums, and welcome to your vintage Airstream project. Doing a "full monty" body off rebuild is a huge project, an expensive one, and a rewarding one. When done, you'll have a nice cozy place to stay while bad paddling down some Alaskan river. And the bears have a harder time getting in an aluminum camper!

I think your trailer will have spray foam insulation. It is a bear to get off the frame. The blasting will probably do the trick.

The side skins do in fact wrap around the outriggers and attach to the bottom, flat belly pan. See photo below. I replaced the belly pan on my 66 Trade Wind, but I did not pull the shell off. My frame and subfloor was "good enough" except for the area under the rear bath.

The body is pretty flimsy when not attached to the frame and subfloor. Finding the corner radius once the body is pulled may not be accurate enough. I only did my rear bath area. I traced the corners, and then I installed the new piece of subfloor. I did use my belt sander to tweak the new floor piece to the corners, but it was time consuming.

Waste water holding tanks are a big deal on these old trailers. See the low volume black tank below. I just bit the bullet and installed new 25 gallon tanks under the subfloor, similar to my 86 Airstream. The old black water tank in our trailers ain't very big, and is in the rear most frame bay. I prefered to have the water tanks closer to the axles. Something to consider since you have it all apart anyway.

You might like starting a rebuild thread in the Airstream Knowledge base toward the bottom of the Forums page. Select trailers, and then select Safari, and your year. Many "full monty" threads are there, and there is where folks interested in mid sixties trailers visit to see who is doing what.

David
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:25 PM   #6
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1967 22' Safari
Fairbanks , Alaska
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
Thanks for all the info guys. It is beyond appreciated. Seeing as how I really don't think there are any major frame issues, is it even worth my while to pull the body on it, or would you suggest simply pulling a section of floor out, refinishing the frame, and putting the new flooring back it? How much reinforcing would it take to get the body to come off in a straight forward fashion? I will definitely start a thread for this one. I already has some pictures of the roof where the ribs had snapped out of snow load.

Thanks again!
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:48 PM   #7
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1967 22' Safari
Fairbanks , Alaska
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Hello badpaddler. Welcome to Air Forums, and welcome to your vintage Airstream project. Doing a "full monty" body off rebuild is a huge project, an expensive one, and a rewarding one. When done, you'll have a nice cozy place to stay while bad paddling down some Alaskan river. And the bears have a harder time getting in an aluminum camper!

I think your trailer will have spray foam insulation. It is a bear to get off the frame. The blasting will probably do the trick.

The side skins do in fact wrap around the outriggers and attach to the bottom, flat belly pan. See photo below. I replaced the belly pan on my 66 Trade Wind, but I did not pull the shell off. My frame and subfloor was "good enough" except for the area under the rear bath.

The body is pretty flimsy when not attached to the frame and subfloor. Finding the corner radius once the body is pulled may not be accurate enough. I only did my rear bath area. I traced the corners, and then I installed the new piece of subfloor. I did use my belt sander to tweak the new floor piece to the corners, but it was time consuming.

Waste water holding tanks are a big deal on these old trailers. See the low volume black tank below. I just bit the bullet and installed new 25 gallon tanks under the subfloor, similar to my 86 Airstream. The old black water tank in our trailers ain't very big, and is in the rear most frame bay. I prefered to have the water tanks closer to the axles. Something to consider since you have it all apart anyway.

You might like starting a rebuild thread in the Airstream Knowledge base toward the bottom of the Forums page. Select trailers, and then select Safari, and your year. Many "full monty" threads are there, and there is where folks interested in mid sixties trailers visit to see who is doing what.

David
Thanks David! How did you plumb in your waste water tanks after you relocated it towards the axle? We will be putting a composting toilet in, so will only need a grey water tank, but am curious as to how you would plumb in the outlet for it and be able to ensure you have the slope to do it. Would you suggest putting in an underfloor tank for freshwater, or one located above floor?

Thanks,

Seth
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:52 PM   #8
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,137
I purchased my waste water holding tanks from Inca Plastics in California. They have been serving the RV industry for decades with polyethylene roto molded tanks. They cost about $250 each and shipping is a significant expense since the tanks are rather large. Check their website. They have a huge catalog that can be downloaded.

The tanks I selected have a slope molded into them. They also have a 3" drain connection molded into them. And the one's I selected have mounting shoulders molded into them making hanging the tanks easier. I selected 17" wide tanks as they fit into the 19" frame bay below where the toilet had to go.

Inca also sells these neet grommets that allow an easier toilet and drain pipe connection as opposed to spin welding fittings onto the tank in the exact locations. Grommets allow flexibility in locating the drain piping.

I purchased a direct replacement fresh water tank for the front of my trailer. That is where the fresh water fill port is located on my trailer. My trailer has the front gaucho floor plan (not the dinette) so the fresh water tank does not disturb my interior layout.

I had to build a waste water tank cover out of aluminum as the tanks I selected hange 5" below the frame rails. I had to insulate the tank compartment and run a furnace heat duct to it. My 86 Limited has a similar design. I drain the tanks with Valterra slide valves, again similar to my 86. This isn't true to form for a 66 Airstream, but I elected function over originality. I don't plan on showing my trailer, I plan on traveling with it.

Maybe my project will help you decide on how to do your project.

David
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