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Old 01-27-2010, 03:43 PM   #1
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Blasting Frame

Anyone try to media blast surface rust from frame? I saw a small sprayer with a 1qt. capacity to run at 5.6 scfm@90 shooting walnut shells ,glass bead,baking soda and the like at Harbor Freight.
It is basically for spot blasting.Anyone tried blasting or does this sound like a waste of time.
The frame is in pretty good shape with light to med. surface rust.
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:00 PM   #2
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That little blaster would take forever,with light rust,I would just use Rustoleum ??,or better .
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:00 PM   #3
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If you have alot of time you could use one of those hand held blasters. They really don't work well for large areas as you will be constantly refilling it as the media is used up pretty quickly. I have had a MAC tools unit for years and they really are only good for very small areas.

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Old 01-28-2010, 07:28 AM   #4
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If you're only dealing with surface rust I would either scuff it up with sandpaper or a wire wheel, then Opsho it and paint of your choice. You could use the little blaster for tougher areas.
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:20 AM   #5
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For the big areas I use a side angle grinder with a wire cup and/or wheel. It's dusty but I get good results.
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:26 AM   #6
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Might try one of these, then maybe it could be passed around here after your done.
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:45 AM   #7
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I bought this on sale from Sears for $49 last year. But then, I sand blasted the entire frame of Little Girl. I went through three 50 lb bags of black abrasive that I picked up at Menard's. It worked quite well, once I figured out that the ceramic nozzle was installed into the gun too far. It was just blowing air without any grit. Pulled it out a 1/4 inch and then it worked perfectly. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...d=sand+blaster
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:58 AM   #8
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blaster

Thanks Minno,What size and scfm compressor did you use?
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Old 01-28-2010, 12:23 PM   #9
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A 5hp 60gal wont keep up after a few minutes of blasting.
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:10 PM   #10
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If you are using true abrasives one doesn't need high air pressure, its air volume at lower pressures that gets a majority of the work done - and every time you stop and reposition the tool etc the compressor has make-up time. I *am* of the opinion the POR-15 philosophy is best, remove loose rust and encapsulate everything as is - bead or sand blasting does not disciminate between good or bad, it removes way too much good metal !

I nabbed a 240VAC craftsman compressor off craigslist and a cheap sand blasting tank from HF and with three bags of coal-slag blast media I did all four wheels and all the hidden nooks and joint angles the air die-grinder with abrasive pancake discs could not reach. Total cost less than $300; recycle the media by screening it through and old window screen or similar to get the pulverized junk out and re-shoot the grains..
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Old 01-31-2010, 11:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaysteve View Post
Thanks Minno,What size and scfm compressor did you use?
A Sears 5 hp, 22 Gal compressor, rated at 6.4 SCFM at 90 PSI. Kept up with me just fine - I never ran out of blasting air. If you watch what you're doing, you can discriminate between rust, old paint, and good metal.

Chris
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:27 AM   #12
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Anyone know how much POR15 I order to do a 28ft. frame,steps etc?
This includes Marine clean,Marine prep,POR15 rust proof,an perhaps POR15 topcoat.
pints or quarts?This stuff is pretty pricey so I don't want to waste.
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Old 03-15-2010, 02:17 PM   #13
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Sandblasting...

Here's some of what I've learned through trial and error.

-Sandblasting is a finicky undertaking. You must have the right combination of dry blast aggregate, compressor, blasting gun, and nozzle.
- if you are using a siphon feed blaster, your blast media must be bone dry, whatever it is
- if you plan to do any amount of blasting, either buy a lot of replacement ceramic nozzles or a tungsten carbide nozzle. Your blast stream deteriorates as the nozzle wears.
- play sand, also very economical, is the best blast media for cleaning steel; walnut shells are not corase enough and will clog a siphon feed sandbalster with a 3/16" nozzle.
- glass beads are an excellent blast media but also very expensive. Various media sizes are available. I only use fine glass beads to blast something where I want to minimize surface damage, such as electric terminals in light housings.
-I have a twenty gallon, twin cylinder, single stage Jenny compressor with an 8 hp gas motor. My blaster needs 6.2 CFM at 80 p.s.i. If I run the blaster without releasing the trigger, the compressor will feed adequate air continuously and recovers within 30 seconds or less when you are not continuously blasting.
-Again, your compressor, blaster, nozzle, and blast aggregate must all be selected to work together.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-15-2010, 03:17 PM   #14
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Having worked at a manufacturing plant that used glass beads for "sand blasting" metal parts, I'd take it to a paint shop or somewhere that does metal working and have it done professionally. The dust from the sand blasting process can really damage your lungs and eyes, if you don't have the proper face mask and breathing filters. And, I don't think the ones at Home Depot provide adequate protection for the really fine silica dust that is produced.

Just my opinion...
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