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Old 06-14-2011, 08:14 PM   #1
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Between new floor and frame?

Well, I'm about to install my new floor onto the frame and don't want to use fiberglass insulation this time around. What should I use between the frame and floor? On old cars, some use a felt like material between body and chassis. The floor is 3/4" plywood epoxied and urethaned. The frame has POR-15 treatment. Thanks for any help in advance!
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:36 PM   #2
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When built (I think) they kinda glossed over that 3/16th inch additional floor height when they sandwiched in the insulation.

On my 1972 I see some low outriggers where they are welded into the ladder frame, that height difference I am guessing might have been compensated for OR had the shell settle there and was not raised at the time of welding during a repair since all of the outriggers are not lower than the top of the box beam.

If all the spars and outriggers match the level of top of the ladder frame, excepting those that are lower to hold the plywood splice doubler plates, then use no spacers. If you have some lower I'd be inserting sturdy shims...

The back sheet I replaced got no inserts added, and I am now regretting now pulling all the flooring to eliminate completely the traces of fiberglass and envy your floor out rehab!

Best of luck to you, take care cinching up the plywood fasteners to avoid having them pull too deeply through the board - some will resist self-countersinking and some will dive half-way through w/ no/low effort!
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:45 AM   #3
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I recently did a small job. Had to replace some flooring in the forward compartment of our 31' Excella. Leaking window. Had some trouble with the floor bolts stripping out. I found that if I pre-drilled and countersunk for the bolt head then I did not need to apply so much force to sink the head. Worked out much better.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:38 PM   #4
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Thanks for your posts concerning my question. I decided to lay down on the chassis, foam insulation that comes in rolls from Home Depot. It's 1 1/4" wide by around 5/8" thick and comes in 10' rolls.
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:53 AM   #5
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Hey surfpod, I am going back and forth on floor insulation. I am worried about water collecting between the fubfloor and insulation if I have a leak. What are you useing? Any pics?
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:32 PM   #6
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I want and will post pics in the next day or so. I am also trying to figure out what to do for a layer between the chassis and plywood floor. I don't want to install fiberglass, again. But, I'm not sure I want to have plywood directly on the frame. Don't know if that layer helped with overall functioning of the shell/chassis. I POR-15'd the chassis and am very pleased with the results. I also coated the 3/4" exterior ply with epoxy and urethane, so maybe that's enough. The stuff I bought from Home Depot is basically that spongy, rubbery material used in doors, also for a layer between caps on pick up trucks.
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:18 PM   #7
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You're really overthinking this issue about a layer between the frame & the floor. When the trailer was built it was just easier and faster to lay out insulation over the entire frame than to cut it to fit between the crossmembers and the frame rails. When I rebuilt my chassis I did not put anything between the floor and the frame and it fit just fine. The way it was done originally was only for speed and ease of the manufacturing process.
Currently on new trailers they will lay linoleum over the entire floor surface and then put cabinets, walls and even carpet over the lino. It's just faster and what they cut off would be waste anyways so why spend the time and money to cut out waste material.
The spongey rubbery material you are thinking of, well the name alone should tell you not to use it. SPONGEY, why would you want a sponge sandwiched between the frame and the floor which will only trap moisture.
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
so maybe that's enough
Thats enough, you worried me... The metal-to-plywood is not a bad thing especially if you've treated the wood. The ridgid plane of the sheet plywood fastened tightly keeps frame and shell square and stiff, ejecting the fiberglass is a win-win no matter how the factory used to do it..

I used prodex under the flooring between the spars, its especially good at bouncing heat upwards. I held it off from painted plywood by a single layer of prodex and tented away at the center with two layers never to hold liquid water; so a 2-inch border and then air-gap, the border was vulkem glued up, each sheet vulkemed up and stapled so its vermin proof and room for more insulation above the belly pans.

The rubbery insulation bought might not age well, dry out and get brittle or loose its body. Remember you're building for 20, 30 years...
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:00 PM   #9
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Thanks for your input. I came to my senses and installed the plywood onto the frame directly. I'm starting to feel some progress. Appreciate the help!
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:55 PM   #10
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For floors also consider truck bed liner. A company actually markets colored versions as deck coatings. Saw it at home depot. I was thinking about using it on the down side of plywood or top of frame.
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:43 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by RestoWarrior
For floors also consider truck bed liner. A company actually markets colored versions as deck coatings. Saw it at home depot. I was thinking about using it on the down side of plywood or top of frame.
That's what I'll be doing.
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:21 AM   #12
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A bead of vulcum across the top of the frame right before you lay down the plywood will keep water from collecting on top of the frame.
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