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Old 09-20-2015, 09:24 PM   #1
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2015 25' Flying Cloud
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Best Way To Level An AS, Front to Back

OK gang. What is the best way to level an AS? We've used our brand new 25' Flying Cloud all summer and we love it. However, it never seems level no matter what I do. So I finally brought my 6 foot level out to where we park our AS and set it on the floor. Guess what? When setting the level in the center of our AS, it's essentially level. However, after setting the level in the front and back ends, I find that my AS slopes down in the front and the rear by about an inch. Apparently my AS is humped at the axel and goes down in both directions. I guess it's not a big deal, but is this normal? Maybe I should put a 1 foot level in the freezer and level my AS based on that reading and forget about the floor being level. Or maybe I should climb up and set the level on the roof (just joking).
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:42 PM   #2
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Best way? No idea, I have not tried them all. Fridge manual says put level in freezer. After insuring level side to side and fore and aft I installed this just under front window.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:51 PM   #3
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I placed a 6 foot level along the center rivet line on the outside of the trailer to level front to back and verified with a circular bubble level in the freezer. Once level, I installed a small exterior bubble level on the exterior near the jack to make it easy. Same thing for side to side leveling.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:59 PM   #4
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Take it back...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ltorgy View Post
OK gang. What is the best way to level an AS? We've used our brand new 25' Flying Cloud all summer and we love it. However, it never seems level no matter what I do. So I finally brought my 6 foot level out to where we park our AS and set it on the floor. Guess what? When setting the level in the center of our AS, it's essentially level. However, after setting the level in the front and back ends, I find that my AS slopes down in the front and the rear by about an inch. Apparently my AS is humped at the axel and goes down in both directions. I guess it's not a big deal, but is this normal? Maybe I should put a 1 foot level in the freezer and level my AS based on that reading and forget about the floor being level. Or maybe I should climb up and set the level on the roof (just joking).
A new unit should be square and flat... if it is not then there is a manufacturing defect that will probably cause significant issues down the road. I would at the very least consult AS about it lack of a flat floor.
Do it during the warranty period for sure and get it noted into its "history" in the event it develops issues later... then you have a legal leg to stand on if things go south.

Chuck
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:32 PM   #5
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I use a torpedo level on the freezer plate.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:59 PM   #6
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We level based on the kitchen counter and call it a day. If you really have such an "out of level" unit, I'd speak with Airstream about this.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:16 AM   #7
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The guys at Jackson Center say to place a level on the entry door sill and use the tongue jack.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:29 AM   #8
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Leveling

I have been leveling other makes for years but I can only do it with a circle level. Something about using a regular level just doesn't work with my brain. Level the freezer shelf (I guess that's what is still recommended) and then find a corresponding spot in the trailer, I use the kitchen counter. Then, always use that spot. I guess you could put a level outside--or is there one on the jack?--we level side to side with blocks and front to back with the tongue jack.

When I use the little bubble in the circle kind of level, it is easy for me to see where it's off just by raising the level at various spots. Then you'll know what you need to raise.

We are picking up our Airstream this week.

Pam
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:37 PM   #9
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Leveling

Frist thing:

1. Check the pad you are parking on with a level, if dirt, check to see if your wheels are not in a hole on one side. A quick check with a level in front of the frig. will tell you if you need to put blocks under the wheels on one side.

2. Then level from front to back with the bubble on the jack, ( remember you need to level this bubble on a very space flat surface's so you can set the bubble).

3. Jacks down, never over tighten the jacks just very firm and I use a 3ft level in front of the Frig. then I give each jack a half turn with a hand wrench for a firm fit. AS will tell you not to level your AS with the jacks as this will cause damage to the under carriage, then your are all out of whack each time you try to level.

Then the BOSS (Wife) will check out the inside for the finial approval, we get the trailer leveled in 15 minutes or so about 95% of the time doing this.
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:47 PM   #10
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Two Bubble Levels

When we get to a campsite my wife usually says "Looks good... let's move in". I am more sensitive to out-of-level so I installed two RV bubble levels (the type that are about 3" long side to side and have a curved tube with marks showing how far out of level the trailer is). When I got these I leveled the trailer using a 4' carpenters level across the trailer floor and front to back in the center. We have a FB model, so I did this just inside the door in the center of the living/kitchen area. I have an aftermarket flag pole bracket mounted to a plate that is "U" bolted to the tongue jack post. That's where the side-to-side level is. I screwed it in place for security and to keep it true over time. The front-to-back is inside the propane tank cover near the top and stuck on with the double sided tape that came affixed to the bubble level.

When we arrive and back the trailer into position I check the side-to-side with the truck still running. If it is more than 4" out of level, I move the trailer. Less than 4" I use Anderson Camper Levelers (the red curved things) under both wheels on the low side. When I get within 1" either way of level, I call it done. Before I unhitch I check front to back. If I need to lower more than 4" according to the level (which is actually much more given the distance from the measurement spot to the tongue) I do not put blocks under the jack since I will hit bottom before I come level. Otherwise, I usually use two 2x6x12" blocks to speed the process. As I adjust the tongue jack I keep the propane tank lid open to watch the level. When it reads 0", I'm done.

It never occurred to me that our trailer might be bowed. I'll have to check to see if I'm as level up front as that method gets me in the back.
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:15 PM   #11
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use your warranty before using creative solutions

As stated above, your frame (and floor) should be flat. Make the dealer fix it and prove it to your satisfaction. That's what you paid all that $ for

An easy leveling tool is a marble or ball bearing… set it on your counter. It'll roll downhill if not level.

Good luck!
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltorgy View Post
Apparently my AS is humped at the axel and goes down in both directions. I guess it's not a big deal, but is this normal?
Ours has also has a bit of a hump at the axle, so it's not just you. I was rather surprised and disappointed by this-- I don't think it should be that way. We also have a spot by the lounge where you can see the floor flex a bit when someone walks over it, and that makes one wonder how many such spots exist in the trailer. That could also really throw you off if you're checking for level at the floor and standing anywhere near the level.

After our first weekend out, it became clear we had to check for level at the stove top (and freezer), and hope that the rest of the trailer would cooperate. Are you familiar with that scene in The Long, Long Trailer where Lucy had to wire her griddle in place and the eggs went sliding off? Yeah... it was sort of like that. I had to hold the skillet in place the entire time.

Fortunately, the stove top and the floor of the freezer seem to be-- more or less-- on the same plane while the counters, tabletop and floor are all slightly different. And when we level the trailer both side-to-side and front-to-back by checking both the stove and freezer, the rest of the trailer feels more level throughout (and when we check various spots with a level, it actually is much better in both directions).

You might give that a try next time, and see if you get better results. In our floorplan, the stove and refrigerator are right next to one another, while yours are across the aisle, which may or may not make a difference.
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltorgy View Post
OK gang. What is the best way to level an AS? We've used our brand new 25' Flying Cloud all summer and we love it. However, it never seems level no matter what I do. So I finally brought my 6 foot level out to where we park our AS and set it on the floor. Guess what? When setting the level in the center of our AS, it's essentially level. However, after setting the level in the front and back ends, I find that my AS slopes down in the front and the rear by about an inch. Apparently my AS is humped at the axel and goes down in both directions. I guess it's not a big deal, but is this normal? Maybe I should put a 1 foot level in the freezer and level my AS based on that reading and forget about the floor being level. Or maybe I should climb up and set the level on the roof (just joking).
The Airstream frame will flex a bit more than most other RV's but an inch over 12 to 16 feet? Are you sure it's that much? Let me suggest a few (possibly stupid) things. Check your tire pressure on the trailer. If your tires are low it might be POSSIBLE that when you stand in the very front, you yourself are causing the Airstream to teeter forward, and when you're standing in the rear, it might totter backwards. Try leveling it at the wheels and setting your stabilizer jacks - firm but not tight. Then try the level under the dinette, with you standing outside the door to eyeball it, and in the front, set the level in the garage (outside access door) and try the level again looking in through the door. If you've got that much of a hump with no one in the trailer something is not right.

Good luck, Paula
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:51 PM   #14
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I use an iPhone app named RV Companion which has a bubble level component in both dimensions (two levels, front to back and side to side). I place the phone on the floor away from the traffic pattern.

I like that it tells me how many inches side to side I need to adjust. It uses the dimensions of the trailer track width to compute it.

However, it does not have this "how many inches" feature front to back. I guess since the tongue jack is infinitely adjustable within its range, the author thought it is not needed. But there are situations where the slope towards the back may be so severe one may need to put all wheels on blocks to allow the tongue jack to drop down far enough. I have a ProPride hitch and the amount of front drop is limited. I would like to know this before I unhitch.


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