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07-03-2016, 02:43 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1968 22' Safari
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 80
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Best method to remove elevator bolts
Lisa and I removed our first section of subfloor yesterday (68 Safari Land Yacht). It looks pretty much as expected - surface rusted frame, lots o' icky stuff on the belly pan, etc. We are now going to methodically remove the rest of the floor.
I was able to see the c-channel close up and personal for the first time and get a look at exactly how the shell attaches to the frame through the subfloor (upward facing c-channel is riveted to the shell, bolts pass downward through that, through the subfloor and, lastly, through the frame where a nut is attached before bending the end of the bolt). I was not surprised that the perimeter elevator bolts used for the purpose are all quite rusted.
So, what is the best method for removing those? I'm thinking an oscillating tool with a metal-cutting blade, slipped between the subfloor and c-channel should do the trick. Of course, that will do more harm than good if the pass-through hole in the frame is threaded. Is it?
Is there a better, more widely accepted method for removing those bolts - assuming that they are completely fused by rust, as are mine?
Thanks to all, as usual.
Jay & Lisa
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07-03-2016, 04:32 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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make a tool...
I got a hole saw......made a template tool (hole in a board).....drill out the area around the bolt. Lift out the flooring and then use vice grips to break the bolt...very easy.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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07-03-2016, 04:38 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2005 25' Classic
1986 32' Excella
1965 22' Safari
2006 22' Interstate
Newark
, Delaware
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 145
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I used a hole saw and template as well. Bolt cutters freed most of the bolts from the frame. After cutting off the top I used a hammer and punch to pound the stubborn ones out for the frame.
It is not threaded.
Dave
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07-03-2016, 04:48 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
1962 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,996
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Very good tip.
__________________
Hittenstiehl
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07-03-2016, 05:25 PM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1968 22' Safari
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 80
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Thanks
Thanks. Why didn't I think of that?
What role does the template play? Why not just use the hole saw to cut around the bolt? Am I missing something?
Also, I can't do this with the perimeter bolts, the ones through the c-channel. Oscillating tool?
Thanks again!
Jay & Lisa
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07-03-2016, 06:35 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1976 29' Ambassador
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Ranch
I got a hole saw......made a template tool (hole in a board).....drill out the area around the bolt. Lift out the flooring and then use vice grips to break the bolt...very easy.
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I won the AS subfloor lottery, as mine was secured using oversized phillips screws. A little reluctant after all these years, but a little impact driver persuasion with the right sized bit, they all came out, except the ones that spun freely.
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07-03-2016, 06:37 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1976 29' Ambassador
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splyb
Thanks. Why didn't I think of that?
What role does the template play?
Jay & Lisa
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My guess is that the template stop the bit from "walking" around the bolt. Holesaw bit usually has a center bit that keeps it from wandering off, but in this case, that would be squarely on the bolt.
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07-03-2016, 06:38 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
2005 25' Classic
1986 32' Excella
1965 22' Safari
2006 22' Interstate
Newark
, Delaware
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 145
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Exactly, Chae.
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07-04-2016, 05:29 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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Don't forget to make your pattern for your floor before removal. It would be a beast to do after the fact.
I used a skill saw for elevator bolt removal.
Set the blade for a fuzz under 5/8 and plunge the blade in next to head of bolt on all 4 sides. Same effect as the hole saw. I used bolt cutters for the ones under the channel. My floor was so rotted at the perimeter it pulled out pretty easily then nipped the rusty bolts.
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07-04-2016, 06:45 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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I used a Harbor Freight vibrating tool in mine and a 4in, angle grinder on the ones where I had better access. Removed all the floor from the axles to the rear. Cutting the bolts dulled the blades in short order and I used a lot of them. It was the perfect tool for cutting down the center line of the frame rail and outriggers so that patches (just inside the door) would have a nice ledge to sit on.
__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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07-04-2016, 01:18 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1972 29' Ambassador
golden valley
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
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Elevator bolts
It may be best to avoid the oscillating tool as it could damage the c channel. The blades are also very expensive and wear too quickly. I had good luck grabbing the bent part of the bolt with a large pliers and bending it back-and-forth till it broke, especially with the very rusty ones. I used to 4 inch angle grinder and a Dremel tool with a mini cutting wheel as back up. Good luck with your project.
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07-04-2016, 07:29 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Excella 500
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 43
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Thats funny
I used a hole saw and guide on my floor also
Worked great
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07-04-2016, 07:42 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1973 23' Safari
1970 27' Overlander
Boerne
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 222
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The hole saw with the template works great for the bolts in the plywood. For the C channel bolts and others not accessible with the hole saw, a grinder with a cut-off blade works great from underneath (assuming your belly pan is off). A lot faster than an oscillating saw.
Greg
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08-25-2016, 09:22 AM
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#14
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New Member
1966 24' Tradewind
Salt Lake City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
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First time writer, long time reader
3 quick questions stemming from this thread! I'd be SO grateful for any info.
Here's the scenario:
- Replacing subfloor from axels to rear
- Shell-on
- Belly pan-on
- Minor rot (not enough to remove subfloor with elevator bolts in place)
Questions:
1. For hole pattern method: once subfloor is removed, is bolt-cutters the best way to remove the elevator bolts?
2. Along C Channel: When using an oscillating cutter (FEIN was recommended highly), do I slide the blade between the subfloor and the C Channel, or between the C Channel and Bolt head?
3. With Belly Pan on, how do I re-attach the new subfloor once it is in place?
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08-25-2016, 05:53 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
2003 22' International
South Bend
, Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 78
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Use an angle grinder inside the channel to cut the bolts. An oscillating tool will take forever or longer. Just tried an oscillating tool and bolts are too hard. Grinding wheel goes right through them.
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08-25-2016, 05:56 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
2003 22' International
South Bend
, Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 78
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I pushed grade 5 bolts up from the bottom of channel, through the new subfloor and used nylock nuts. Not sure how you could do it without access to the underside. Had to have wrench on both sides to tighten.
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08-26-2016, 08:46 AM
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#17
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New Member
1966 24' Tradewind
Salt Lake City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
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Thanks!
Thanks guys! Much appreciated. Great advice.
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08-26-2016, 09:05 AM
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#18
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New Member
1966 24' Tradewind
Salt Lake City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
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One more quick question. Are you talking a 4.5" angle grinder? Would i just angle it down into the channel? I've found a few 2" angle grinders that would fit into the channel, but not sure they're heavy duty enough for the job.
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08-27-2016, 09:33 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
2003 22' International
South Bend
, Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 78
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Once the word is removed you can just cut them out of the channel. If your wood is still intact and surrounding the bolt then you may have to get through the wood first. But no, don't angle down through the wood. Remove the lower aluminum skin so you can access the tops of the bolts. Try the previous mentioned thread. My process involved my wood being so rotten I was able to clear out the channel of all wood leaving only the bolts exposed.
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