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Old 06-18-2007, 07:23 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  2005 22' International CCD
Woodland Park , Colorado
Posts: 54

Bent Frame on 2005 22' Intl - How bad is it?

Just removed the fresh water tank on our 2005 22' International we purchased in February to replace due to overfilling (see overfilled water tank. Tank came out easily, thanks to the advice from other forum members. However, once the tank and cover were removed we discovered a bent frame. There is no way this was caused by overfilling the tank, however we never would have noticed it had we not removed the tank as it was hidden by the tank cover.

The first two pictures are of the right side frame just forward of the wheels. You can see the bend in the lower section of the frame. Not seen is that the vertical section is bent inward, and there is about a 2" horizontal crack just behind the electrical lines (where you can see the rust spot). Picture #3 is the same section but from the outside. The crack is just above where the outer sub-floor starts (you can see a bit of rust there). Picture #4 is of the left side of the frame, from the inside, showing a similar but much smaller dent on the lower section of frame. No crack here and the vertical section is straight. The last picture is of the cracked floor caused by the overfilled water tank.

We are pretty disappointed in finding this on a 2 year old trailer that we've owned for less than 6 months. The funny thing is we never would have found it had we not had to remove the tank.

So.... How bad is it and what do we need to do to repair? Can we simply have the frame pounded straight and some reinforcing pieces of steel welded on? Can we leave it alone? (the crack makes me think no).

Please help. Appreciate any information you can provide. jk
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:38 PM   #2
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Profile:  2005 30' Safari
South , Texas
Posts: 131

Where the damage is...

It almost looks as if the previous owner/shop tried jacking the trailer up right there and then tried to bend it back into shape. I think that you should talk to Airstreams factory repair people and see if the frame is "heat treated". If it is then you cannont weld, If it is not heat treated then you could have a angle or strap welded over the crack.

How hard was it taking the tank out?
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:44 PM   #3
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Profile:  2005 22' International CCD
Woodland Park , Colorado
Posts: 54

Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariSS
It almost looks as if the previous owner/shop tried jacking the trailer up right there and then tried to bend it back into shape. I think that you should talk to Airstreams factory repair people and see if the frame is "heat treated". If it is then you cannont weld, If it is not heat treated then you could have a angle or strap welded over the crack.

How hard was it taking the tank out?
Removing the tank was pretty easy. Remove 3 brackets and the left side of the tank cover, Prop the left side of the tank up, drop the right, disconnect the hoses and pull the tank out. Took about an hour. the hardest part was disconnecting the fill hose and the hose pulling the water to the trailer. All the hoses were connected to the left side of the tank.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:10 PM   #4
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Profile:  1948 16' Wee Wind
1964 19' Globetrotter
Denver , Colorado
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Cold fix ...

The lower C channel of your chassis frame was deformed, cold, by the force of water pressure. I'd clamp a thick flat piece of metal, perhaps a 1/2 inch thick rectangular bar maybe or a small section of railraod rail with the flat bottom down, to the inside of the C channel between the adjacent cross members. Then, with a 4 or 5 pound sledge hammer, pound the lower lip of the C channel, still cold, flat again. Repeat on the other side frame rail.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:33 PM   #5
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Northern Suburbs , Illinois
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Looks to me like it's just the lip and not actually a bent frame, or I should say, what I was thinking a bent frame is. This should be fairly easy to get back into shape.

I was thinking that the whole side frame was also distorted.
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:12 PM   #6
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... plus some heat for the crack

I jusr read your description and learned about the vertical crack, which is not visible in the photos. Have that crack repaired. I would imagine a welding shop could repair it, but to be on the safe side call Airstream customer service first to confirm that the frame rails can be welded.
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:55 PM   #7
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I don't think it all was the tank... it wouldn't bend the rail inward. That said, I would just pound up the bent c-channel, and then re-inforce the crack. A piece of steel welded to it would do the trick. Then cover it up, and forget about it. If the trailer is tracking straight, (and from your trip report, it seems to be), then you are good to go. Wonder what did bend the frame inthe first part though. Probably jacking in the wrong place is my guess in the abcense of an accident.

The OSB is kind of blown out. I'd either cut it all out and replace it, or sister a large rectange up under the OSB (if there is room) with constructive adhesive and screws.... don't go through the floor though!
Marc
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:52 AM   #8
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Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
1975 27' Overlander
2007 28' International CCD
back to PEI... waiting for R1R... , Canada
Posts: 373
Images: 11

do you think plywood would handle the pressure better than OSB?
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:39 AM   #9
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I thought all Airstream floors were made of plywood and not particle board as shown in your photos?
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:31 AM   #10
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osb was used as flooring in the 16s and 22s in '05...

now just the 16s. a single sheet.

take a few more pics and send 'em to j/c...

or have an experienced service shop look.

agree the area should be reinforced.

also need to weigh the unit...

not much carry capacity on that mode as i recall.

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:50 AM   #11
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Profile:  1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Posts: 797

All the advise on repairing the frame sounds good to me. The OSB floor however, may not return to its original flat surface so a relief cut following the crack may be in order to let the floor to set flat again. Before installing a reinforcment doubler double check and see if they will be enough room for the doubler between the tank and floor before installing.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:58 PM   #12
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Profile:  2005 22' International CCD
Woodland Park , Colorado
Posts: 54

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
All the advise on repairing the frame sounds good to me. The OSB floor however, may not return to its original flat surface so a relief cut following the crack may be in order to let the floor to set flat again. Before installing a reinforcment doubler double check and see if they will be enough room for the doubler between the tank and floor before installing.
Thanks for that tip. we were debating how to repair the floor. we were looking at simply attaching a reinforcement piece from the bottom to avoid having to cut up and replace the floor covering. the downside is a ridge will still remain in the floor from the crack. will try cutting a relief along the crack and see if that helps. if so, i am fairly certain a 3/8" piece of plywood would fit between the tank and floor. if needed, i could remove some of the styrofoam on the bottom of the tanks to help it fit.

would it be best to cut the reinforcing piece flush to the front and back cross rails or do i need to leave a gap?

btw, i am in contact with airstream on the frame damage. sent them some pics and they are going to get back to me with some advice... jk
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Old 06-19-2007, 04:53 PM   #13
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Its not inportant that the doubler be flush with the cross members just as long that you have a few inches of doubler on each side of the crack, 4 inches would be a minimun for me if you can achieve that.
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:04 PM   #14
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Profile:  2004 25' Safari
Northern Suburbs , Illinois
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I could swear our 2003 19' had OSB as well. Maybe that was a change for the '05 model year.
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