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Old 02-15-2005, 02:44 AM   #1
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Bellypan removal.

l'm starting the process of removing the bellypan and have a few quick questions.

1. should I remove all the propane lines before attempting to remove the bellypan?
2. once I remove the banana wrap, it seems there are larger size rivets do I need to remove these to remove the bellypan? if so, how, are they the same as all the pop rivets (1/8" drillbit)?
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Old 02-15-2005, 04:44 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobolo
l'm starting the process of removing the bellypan and have a few quick questions.

1. should I remove all the propane lines before attempting to remove the bellypan?
2. once I remove the banana belt, it seems there are larger size rivets do I need to remove these to remove the bellypan? if so, how, are they the same as all the pop rivets (1/8" drillbit)?
FWIW I did drop the LP lines to make removing the belly pan easier, plus I plan on replacing the LP lines in the near future. The rivets in my belly pan are larger than 1/8"...but I can't remember what size! Most of mine were corroded, I removed them using a sharp edged putty knife...shearing them off. I then went back and drilled the stubs out of the frame.

Aaron
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:37 PM   #3
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I guess I didn't phrase my question well, because I'm not getting the responses I hoped for. so I guess I'll post a picture and ask again

To remove the bellypan/banana wrap, must I remove all the rivets around the bottom of the shell on the exterior? My over arching intention is to remove the whole shell this weekend, so in addendum to this question, must remove these rivets to remove the shell also.. I hope this clarified things

http://www.airforums.com/photo...p?i=7983&c=502


thanks
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:58 PM   #4
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yes, all of the rivets along the bottom have to come off. The banana wrap goes up behind the outer skin and the is bent over into the channel that is bolted to the floor. I had to remove the inner skin so I could straighten out the tabs on the banana wrap so that it would come off. Good luck.
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Old 02-17-2005, 04:09 PM   #5
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Here's a crude sketch of what a section through the side would look like.
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Old 02-18-2005, 08:07 PM   #6
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Thanks that's exactly the info I needed.
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Old 04-15-2005, 01:36 PM   #7
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Just wanted to say thanks for the info. I am taking my bellypan off as well and this really clairifies things.
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Old 04-15-2005, 02:36 PM   #8
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Thumbs down Danger! Will Robinson! Danger!

A consideration for 60s trailers (and I don't know if you might be lucky enough to have a later model assembly than that shown in 62 Overlander's sketch) is that removing those rivets may open a bigger can of worms than just opening up the bellypan. Bear in mind that if you remove the connecting rivets, you will also be releasing the shell that connects the (upper) outer skin to the subfloor and the inner skin. It makes for a very tough reassembly, since there are so many layers that may go askew.

That diagram shows it well--I had a hard time picturing this "domino effect" until it was sketched out for me too (thanks, Colin ).

For this reason, many folks prefer to cut off the bellypan, removing it from lower than is visible from a standing postion. That way the upper skin remains attached. Later, flat sheets of aluminum can be riveted back on to the uncut parts of the belly pan. It makes for a far easier re-attachment.

Mary
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Old 04-15-2005, 06:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireflyinva

For this reason, many folks prefer to cut off the bellypan, removing it from lower than is visible from a standing postion. That way the upper skin remains attached. Later, flat sheets of aluminum can be riveted back on to the uncut parts of the belly pan. It makes for a far easier re-attachment.

Mary
The factory finally figured this one out too My 75 is done that way, only odd thing is that the service manual shows the banana wrap under the side metal, but it was not really installed that way, the wrap is over the top of the sides, meaning any water that gets in behind the low beltline is headed straight for the belly pan the underside of the frame and outriggers...trade one set of problems for another

Aaron
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Old 04-15-2005, 08:38 PM   #10
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I agree that it would be highly desirable to leave the body sides attached to the bottom u-channel if at all possible. If you are intending to remove the body from the frame having the u-channel attached will help hold everything together at the bottom of the wall while it is off of the frame.

I also happen to be of the opinion that the body does not need to be fully removed from the frame unless frame repairs actually require the frame to be taken somewhere else to have the work done. Otherwise it is my opinion that pretty much any repair work can be done with the shell on. By the way I also happen to think that you can do most floor repair and replacement without removing the belly pan if the belly pan itself is in good shape and does not actually need replacement. I took off about 1/2 of mine and left the front 1/2 in place through out the whole floor removal and replacement process.

For anyone that has not seen them you might want to check the following thread and especially my post # 52 for some links to shell on floor repair discussions.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...2&page=2&pp=20

Note that the third thread works better with the following pointer:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=14804

Malcolm
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