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Lgebhardt · 08-25-2018, 04:40 AM

We had a plumbing leak that makes me want to remove the rear part of the belly pan to dry things out. I've looked through a lot of threads on belly pan removal and they all seem to be for much older trailers. Is there anything different to look out for with a 2006 vs. those older trailers? Any especially good resources you can recommend?

Lgebhardt · 08-30-2018, 03:57 PM

Anyone?

TG Twinkie · 08-30-2018, 04:25 PM

What is leaking?
Isn't the belly pan riveted on like the old coaches?
Can you post some pics?

Eric 26 Argo · 08-31-2018, 04:43 PM

As far as I know there isn't any real difference. Look at the rivets they should be buck (solid) rivets. When you go back with the pan you will have to pop rivet it back on. I used the over sized head rivets you can get them at Out of Doors Mart.
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...oducts_id=1055

If you have fixed your leak I would put a de-humidifier in the camper for a while and let the pan dry out on its own. They are not designed to be water tight, more for air-o-dynamics and thermal barrier with the insulation. If you were really concerned you could tent the camper and put the de-humidifier in there to dry it all out. It would be easier than working on your back trying to put rivets back in.

Lgebhardt · 09-01-2018, 10:21 AM

Luckily our leak was in the black tank rinse. We hooked the hose up while dumping and water poured out the bottom of the trailer around the dump plumbing. It was only on for a few seconds before I spotted the flow and turned it off. We didn't find any water inside the trailer where we could see. In poking around the dump valve plumbing everything now seems dry above there and I don't see the wet fiberglass I was expecting. The area had been repaired before and poorly closed up, so maybe a previous owner removed the insulation (or there never was any). I think this thread covers the issue we encountered.

So this question really should be two parts:
1) Is it worth removing sheet metal to inspect that area and possibly dry it out.
2) If so, how do I remove the dark grey trim metal under the rub rail that wraps under to the flat sheets of the belly pan?

Eric 26 Argo · 09-01-2018, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lgebhardt

So this question really should be two parts:
1) Is it worth removing sheet metal to inspect that area and possibly dry it out.
2) If so, how do I remove the dark grey trim metal under the rub rail that wraps under to the flat sheets of the belly pan?

1. No. Actually it is really up to you. If it bothers you and you are comfortable doing the work
2. To remove the wrap you will need to remove the belt trim first by removing the plastic insert then drilling out the rivets that hold the trim on. You will also need a razor knife to cut the sealant on top of the belt trim. Once you have accomplished that, you will then start drilling out all the rivets that secure the wrap to the camper be careful to look for hidden rivet under the banana wrap and wheel arch trim. If you have hidden rivets you may have to remove the pieces covering them up.

RichHog · 10-08-2018, 09:58 PM

We have a 2006 Safari 25 FB with the floor rot problem under the dining table/rear end. After having all of the floor replaced and resealed we also drilled some holes in the belly pan underneath the areas where the water was trapped so that if it ever leaked again at least the water would have a place to go.

TG Twinkie · 10-10-2018, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichHog

We have a 2006 Safari 25 FB with the floor rot problem under the dining table/rear end. After having all of the floor replaced and resealed we also drilled some holes in the belly pan underneath the areas where the water was trapped so that if it ever leaked again at least the water would have a place to go.

Good idea.