Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-16-2005, 10:27 PM   #1
I love Airstreams...
Commercial Member
 
leefields's Avatar
 
1989 29' Land Yacht
Haines City , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 290
Images: 4
Talking belly pan ....needed....or not?????

do i need a belly pan....i would prefer to replace entire floor....there is enough rot....i want to cover with 5/8 marine plywood....sprayed top and bottom to seal....and spray bottom with an expanding foam....something along the lines of a bedliner coating........i would like to run electric lines via conduit along the frame....

i am in the orlando area and have stripped entire to the shower stall and toilet....so now i have to consider this....seems like a belly pan is not really needed.....correct me ....please
__________________

__________________
1953 Spartan Mansion

Ram 3500 DRW LB SuperCrew
PCS Professional Coach
AIR# 6366
leefields is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2005, 10:54 PM   #2
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by leefields
do i need a belly pan....i would prefer to replace entire floor....there is enough rot....i want to cover with 5/8 marine plywood....sprayed top and bottom to seal....and spray bottom with an expanding foam....something along the lines of a bedliner coating........i would like to run electric lines via conduit along the frame....

i am in the orlando area and have stripped entire to the shower stall and toilet....so now i have to consider this....seems like a belly pan is not really needed.....correct me ....please
Weeeeell, not exactly 100% necessary....but definitely a good thing for protecting the bottom of your floor, keeping things covered, preserving originality, and aerodynamics.
The bellypan itself has little or no structural purpose. You will have to have a belly wrap, otherwise the entire trailer will look incomplete, might as well connect the wrap with straight sheets to complete the repair.
In other words, put it back after, or we'll take your trailer away!
__________________

__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2005, 11:11 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,422
It's not needed for any structural reason but it is one of the traditional things that helps make it an Airstream. On the other hand, Airtream itself, 4 or 5 years ago and just for a short while, put out a model without a belly pan.

I would go to the trrouble of putting it back on. It will protect things, look nicer and ride smoother.


Sergei
__________________
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2005, 11:55 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
InsideOut's Avatar

 
1956 22' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen , Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 11,793
Images: 108
From one '64 GT owner to another...

Hang in there & do it right!

Besides, with road debris & moisture the wood flooring even if saturated with sealer, will be more subject to damage & eventual failure without a belly pan. Your trailer has survived 40+ years, why, after putting all that work into it, wouldn't you want to protect it as best as you can to give it a chance at another 40? It's like going to the trouble of baking a cake and not frosting it ~

Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002

RMVAC | WBCCI DenCO Unit | Sisters on the Fly | Tin Can Tourists
BIRDY - our 1956 Safari | 1964 Serro Scotty
InsideOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2005, 07:21 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 822
Images: 14
If you don't mice won't have a place to build their nest. Poor little things !!!!
pieman
__________________
Mike Lewis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2005, 01:34 PM   #6
3 Rivet Member
 
aztlanco's Avatar
 
El Paso , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 233
Send a message via AIM to aztlanco
Leefields;
Let's not forget the insulation between the floor and belly pan. It's there to help you stay cool (in Fla.) and toasty up North.
Ernie,
'58 Traveler, 18ft.
__________________
aztlanco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2005, 06:44 PM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
Johndigbydog's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Eagle Lake / Eastport , Florida / Maine
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 62
Images: 29
johndigbydog@verizon.net

Hi- Am wondering if you have finished the floor project yet...I have a 66 Safari and am preparing to start mine. I am in the Lakeland area and would appreciate a look-see of the project if possible. Thanks John
__________________
Johndigbydog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2005, 10:08 PM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 27' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 48
Send a message via Yahoo to dustyrhodes
Question Floor Replacement

I am contemplating floor replacement next. I think this is the time as I need to ensure the integrity of my frame. We are slowly repairing the leaks. There are no longer any puddles inside when it rains.

We have almost everything out now, however the interior skins are still on and I am reticent to remove them to replace the floor. I now have a visual on the C channel as you can see from the rusted bumper. I have read several forums about replacement with interior skins off and with the top removed although I can not imagine how that is done. I also read that some restorers have replaced the floor with the interior skins on. I need a weigh in.

HELP! please

I am still foggy on which is the best way to go. I have developed another great phobia. I am afraid that I will keep taking the Overlander apart and have nothing left to work with but dust.

On a brighter note, 2 of our fantastic fans are in since we had a mid 50 degree day to seal them with vulkem. They are awesome. I read that it was possible to use tin snips to enlarge the opening to accomodate the larger vent. Several blisters later - I can testify to a Rotary-Pneumatic-Cutting-Tool-3000, kindly provided by the Auto Hobby Shop. Cut my work down for 2 hours to about 2 minutes.

Sometimes I marvel at technology and sometimes I just marvel! To add to the madness we are simultaneously rebuilding a motorcycle in a box 1974 Harley Sprint - since I can't afford the deisel for my tow vehicle.

Great Holiday weather in Huntsville, AL
Jennifer
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00002-1.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	17.8 KB
ID:	17159   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00002.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	17.8 KB
ID:	17160  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00003.jpg
Views:	83
Size:	16.0 KB
ID:	17161  
__________________
dustyrhodes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2005, 10:12 PM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 27' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 48
Send a message via Yahoo to dustyrhodes
Talking Oops

I am very bad with attachments!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00004.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	22.5 KB
ID:	17162  
__________________
dustyrhodes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2005, 02:31 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustyrhodes
I am contemplating floor replacement next. I think this is the time as I need to ensure the integrity of my frame. We are slowly repairing the leaks. There are no longer any puddles inside when it rains.

We have almost everything out now, however the interior skins are still on and I am reticent to remove them to replace the floor. I now have a visual on the C channel as you can see from the rusted bumper. I have read several forums about replacement with interior skins off and with the top removed although I can not imagine how that is done. I also read that some restorers have replaced the floor with the interior skins on. I need a weigh in.

HELP! please

I am still foggy on which is the best way to go. I have developed another great phobia. I am afraid that I will keep taking the Overlander apart and have nothing left to work with but dust.

On a brighter note, 2 of our fantastic fans are in since we had a mid 50 degree day to seal them with vulkem. They are awesome. I read that it was possible to use tin snips to enlarge the opening to accomodate the larger vent. Several blisters later - I can testify to a Rotary-Pneumatic-Cutting-Tool-3000, kindly provided by the Auto Hobby Shop. Cut my work down for 2 hours to about 2 minutes.

Sometimes I marvel at technology and sometimes I just marvel! To add to the madness we are simultaneously rebuilding a motorcycle in a box 1974 Harley Sprint - since I can't afford the deisel for my tow vehicle.

Great Holiday weather in Huntsville, AL
Jennifer
Jennifer,

I definitely favor floor replacement with the body in place. With your vintage rig and the way the u-channel/c-channel is constructed it would be dificult (maybe impossible) to take the body off of the frame without unfastening the body from the u-channel which does not seem like a good idea to me at all unless there are other circumstances involved. Leaving the body on gives you a covered place to work too. Check out my posts for details of how I have done it. Also feel free to ask specific questions as you get further along. Someone on the forums will usually come up with a good answer.

Malcolm (malconium)
__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 01:15 PM   #11
4 Rivet Member
 
ankornuta's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Lowell , Massachusetts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 435
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustyrhodes
We have almost everything out now, however the interior skins are still on and I am reticent to remove them to replace the floor. I now have a visual on the C channel as you can see from the rusted bumper. I have read several forums about replacement with interior skins off and with the top removed although I can not imagine how that is done. I also read that some restorers have replaced the floor with the interior skins on. I need a weigh in.

HELP! please
Jennifer
I too have a 26 footer; a two-door 1958 Cruiser. I've been prepping to lift the body for a while now. Last weekend I removed the lower interior skins, this weekend I removed the rest, and this upcoming weekend I'll be lifting the body. I can tell you that by removing the lower interior skins the "clamshell" design suddenly clicked in my mind. I would have to say that removing at least the lower interior skins will make your floor replacement MUCH easier.
__________________

__________________
ankornuta is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing Belly Pan garp Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 5 07-06-2016 01:48 PM
where belly meets floor meets shell JrnymnJay Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 6 01-09-2006 01:05 PM
Fixing the Floor 61BambiCanada Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 6 01-06-2004 10:21 AM
Need HELP! Need help quick - dropping the belly pan escapeez Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 8 12-30-2002 07:03 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.