Does anyone know how this product hold up? Any special care needed when using a refinished tub, sink, or shower pan?
Tim,
Mine is holding up really well. Even where the shower hose ( metal) rubs on the finish, ther is no sign of wear.
We've been to Baja, had sand crusted babies in there, and all sorts of traffic in the bath ( mine is a wet bath where you walk inside the shower pan every time you enter the bath"room") with no problems or peeling so far.
I had mine done by a refinishing company, but I guess the 2-part store bought stuff is just as good.
Tim,
Mine is holding up really well. Even where the shower hose ( metal) rubs on the finish, ther is no sign of wear.
We've been to Baja, had sand crusted babies in there, and all sorts of traffic in the bath ( mine is a wet bath where you walk inside the shower pan every time you enter the bath"room") with no problems or peeling so far.
I had mine done by a refinishing company, but I guess the 2-part store bought stuff is just as good.
Uwe,
If you don't mind me asking, (even if you do it's too late ) how much did it cost to have it professionaly redone?
If my memory serves, you had your bathroom totally disassembled didn't you? So I suppose you had it done then. I would like to have something done in place so I don't have to dismantle the bathroom.
Tim, I paid $ 250.00 for the bath pan, the toilet riser cover, and the vanity top/sink assembly. This includes several hours of prep work.
I then decided to have them do the tambour as well, and paid a little extra for this. I forget how much.
It is definitely cleaner to do it once it is removed, but it is possible to do it with everything in place, especially if you're using the brush-on system mentioned above.
I can not see spraying the parts while they are in place, and get a good result. It's too tight, and overspray would be inevitable, resulting ina hazy finish.
I cannot figure out how to remove the bathtub from its drain pipe. Do you how I can reach the nut attaching the pipe to the drain assembly?
The chrome bezel in the bathtub IS the nut. It's threaded into the P-Trap. Put a couple of screwdrivers into the drain and cross them and you should be able to turn it out.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
The chrome bezel in the bathtub IS the nut. It's threaded into the P-Trap. Put a couple of screwdrivers into the drain and cross them and you should be able to turn it out.
I had to warm up the pipe dope on mine a few weeks ago to get it to turn. Broke one of the inserts prior to applying heat, it did come out. I found a replacement at Home Depot.
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'77 20' Argosy MH (Peanut)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
Member of VAC www.balrgn.com www.balrgn.com/Airstream.htm
Well, was I surprised to find this old thread pulled off the shelf!!
I actually made a tool to unscrew the the tub drain from a P-trap. I used a pipe about 1-1/4" diameter and cut four 1/4" notches (12, 3. 6, & 9 o-clock positions) that would fit into the drain strainer (nut) and was able to break it free.
It was kind of a pain to put it back and I still don't have it tight enough, just haven't gotten around doing it. (There's a slip joint at the P-trap that's pretty hard to get a good grip on.)
(Don't worry though, removal is always the easy part!)
The "Tough As Tile" is still holding up, although there a couple of spots I wish I'd sprayed thicker. It cleans easily and looks so much better than the old yellow finish. The hardest part was disassembly and prep.
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) how much did it cost to have it professionaly redone?
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