Back attachment shell on floor replacement

[Rousseau]

I have been replacing the rear bath floor due to RES/rotted floor. I am to the point where I will be inserting the new ply. Before I do that I have a concern about the rear end plate. The aluminum channel is attached to a steel plate, which I may or may not be the "rear end plate" at the very back of the trailer. The exterior belt trim has rivets that go through the exterior shell. These same rivets at one time were attached to the end plate; however, they are now unattached. I have not done any riveting yet, but I do know which Olympic rivets I will be using and had ordered some. I tried to rerivet with -7 size to no avail. PO had done some plumbing work in the rear at some point, and I am wondering if these rivets were placed by them or if they were original. If they are original, how do I rerivet effectively? Thanks for any and all insight. It's a 72 Trotter.

[perryg114]

I would use bucked rivets because you are making a structural attachment to the frame of the trailer. What does the aluminum look like where the steel plate attached? Pictures would help us. My plate was still attached and I left it that way. It made floor replacement a little harder because I had to replace the floor in three sections instead of one big one. I think the bucked rivets are the ones with the dot in the center of the head which I believe are stronger than the rivets used elsewhere. Someone like Aerowood on here can probably tell you more.

Perry

[Rousseau]

I placed the floor using two pieces yesterday. I think the subfloor will be enough security. I still would like to know more about sizes in relation to rivets. Bucked rivets, wow I cannot believe I was thinking Olympic. The aluminum is solid. I will post pics, but I have had probs downloading to my computer.

[perryg114]

This will give you some back ground. You want solid domed head rivets in Aluminum. I believe you will only find 1/8", 5/32", and 3/16" rivets on Airstreams. I expect the ones at the back are 3/16" but I would check. #30, #21, #11 drill bits are used to remove or drill pilot holes for these rivet sizes. You will need an air operated rivet gun and some bucking bars. It is a two man job with one driving the rivets and one bucking. Practice first before you try this on your trailer.

McMaster-Carr

http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/rivets/arvr.htm

http://www.mlevel3.com/BCIT/Rivet%20Identification.htm

I think the rivets you want are 2117-T4 with the dimple which is what mine has in it at the back. These are stronger than the 1100 series plain rivets.


Perry