Axle mount channel bent

[Al and Missy]

I am in the process of repacking my wheel bearings. I was nervous about jacking at the jack point since it is so far aft, and I had seen posts on here recommending jacking from the axle mounting channel so that is what I decided to do. All was well on the road side. When I went to the curb side to do the same thing, the bottom rail of the channel at the rear was bent up. I moved further forward (still between the wheels) and jacked from that point, but I think that part of the channel rail is now also deforming a little.

This is a 2001 25' Safari Twin bed model with a wardrobe and the galley on the curb side. I'm a little surprised that the curb side would be so much heavier that it would bend that flange, but my curb side tires run a few degrees hotter than the road side, so maybe that side is heavier.

The vertical side of the channel that the shocks attach to looks fine and I felt the top side of the bent flange for rust but it feels nice and smooth.

Could this be a problem, or just a lesson to use the jack point?

Thanks,

Al

[cwf]

woah, woah, woah..

NEVER jack on the axle channel!!!

There is a vertical plate welded to the axle channel... that plate mounts to a bigger vertical plate that then mounts to the FRAME.... it is that BIG HONKING plate where you should place the jack to lift the trailer..

[Al and Missy]

I was jacking on the underside of the heavy vertical plate that the axles are mounted to which is apparently welded to the frame. Sorry for the confusion. I'd call the axle tube a box, not a channel.

Al

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I was jacking on the underside of the heavy vertical plate that the axles are mounted to which is apparently welded to the frame. Sorry for the confusion. I'd call the axle tube a box, not a channel.

Al

Why jack when it is not necessary just pull one wheel onto stack of 2/8, you can even do both wheels opposite sides this will let one wheel each side free to work on. There is a lot of posts on forums about this & there isn't any chance to damage axle or frame, or to change tire do wheel same side. If single axle no choice must jack, tandem axle never jack no matter what experts say. Why take chance of damage

[Al and Missy]

I was pulling both wheels and drums for a bearing pack. Also, my driveway is tight and I didn't want to be maneuvering the trailer back and forth. Way less work to jack when you are doing both wheels. Not so to change a flat or work on only one.

Al

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I was pulling both wheels and drums for a bearing pack. Also, my driveway is tight and I didn't want to be maneuvering the trailer back and forth. Way less work to jack when you are doing both wheels. Not so to change a flat or work on only one.

Al

What is better moving trailer aprox. 1ft forward or back 1 ft. as you have already caused some damage by jacking, you do not have to make major moves to do this, also misnomer less work to jack than move distance I stated

[A W Warn]

I doubt the bending of the axle mounting plate was started by jacking. I would bet it was started by running over something while traveling, like dropping off of a curb.

I have jacked all of the trailers I have ever owned this way, even the 3 axle, without damage. Though, I use a ramp at times to remove a single wheel. I use the jack when I'm removing two or more wheels at the same time. It is easier/faster for me this way. I also slip some heavy 8"x8" wood blocks in beside the jack for safety after I remove the first wheel.

[Al and Missy]

I didn't jack on the axle.

And you don't know my driveway

The question I asked was if it was a problem that the rear of the bottom flange of the "channel" that the axles are bolted to is bent. It was apparently bent when I bought the trailer. I may have distorted it slightly more by jacking, but only on the side where it was already bent. No problem jacking on the road side.

There are several posts on here that suggest that jacking on the bottom of that plate is better than the factory jack point at the rear of the trailer. There is nothing attached to it, and it is only about 1" wide. The mounting surface of the plate is fine. I called it a channel, but after removing the wheels it looks like it is an asymmetrical angle with a 9" or 10" vertical flange which is attached to the frame and a 1" or so wide horizontal flange on the bottom which is apparently only a lateral stiffener.

Anyway, it is done, so I can't undo it.

[Al and Missy]

Thanks, Alan.

I did put a jack stand under the jack point once I got the trailer up, and before I took off the wheels. Better safe than sorry!

Al

[tjoneillMO]

The lower flange of the frame channel is in tension under what is normally a bending stress in the frame. The top flange is in compression, and somewhere in the middle of the web the stress is zero, hence the engineering term "neutral axis".

If the bending is aft of the rear axle attachment point is is not really participating in this loading. It would still be supporting shear loading from the weight above. A pic would be good to assess the damage, but it is likely no big deal. Fixing it could be worse.

[dznf0g]

I have noted some flexing in this area as well. If I understand correctly, Al is talking about the bottom lip of the "L" of the axle plate. I think it is no big deal. I do try and make sure the jack tip/plate is as close to and/or centered on the vertical side of the "L" as possible. Again, unless you are bending the vertical plate, no big deal, IMO.

[Al and Missy]

Thanks guys. I finished the job with no apparent consequences. Headed for Alumalina on Wednesday. That should show up any problems, but I'm not expecting any. it is just the back inch or two of the horizontal part of the axle mounting L on the frame. I don't see that it is structural, except, perhaps, being in tension when the trailer is on the wheels, but it is so close to the end that it would seem that loads would be minimal. It is even tapered, i.e. the corner of the bottom flange is cut off.

Al