Argosy Redo

[rugjenkins]

Question- where is the power inlet located/ placement. I had planed to put it street side at the back near the battery. Curious to know where yours is located?

[rugjenkins]

I'm having to extend all the bottom interior panels about 2 inches. It's the height of the perimeter band I added to the frame. Also patching and cutting new holes since we went with a new layout. Considering making the patches in the shapes of states instead of square and round holes[emoji1]

[rugjenkins]

Started working on the wood interior endcaps again. My order from vts came in. 1/2 long 1/8 buck rivets plus washers. The washers must be used or it won't work if you use 1/8 plywood. I also took measurements this time for a more concise approach (winging it was not working). Many have done 9 panels or 11. I choose to have 13 panels. My reason for 13 panels is there would (in theory) be less compound curve. Not sure it makes a huge difference from 9, 11, or 13. The compound curve causes the panel underneath to stick out some but the above panel sits flush. I'll take a pic so you can see what I'm talking about.
So I ordered the longest rivet with washers from vts. I have learned that the length needed varies depending on curve. The edges don't need to be as long as the center curve. I'm buck riveting the panels together. I like the look of the wood and solid head rivets together. So, to shorten the length I cut each rivet with diagonal cutters, put on the washer and buck it together. So far so good. I've done 3 panels.
What I have learned so far.
1. Use long rivets with washers, cut to proper length.
2. 2 inch spacing between rivets
3. 2 inch overlapping on the back. (If my panel is 5 inches wide, I cut it 7 inches for overlapping).
4. Cleo all the holes for that panel. Only putting in 4 or 5 to hold it together does not work. I had to redo the 3rd panel because of trying to do a shortcut [emoji51]
5. Olympic rivets would be way faster. You can rivet in place. I'm taking the endcap down every panel to buck rivet it together.

[matthewsx]

Nice, would be great to do some patterns up....

[rugjenkins]

All the panels are straight cuts. Only the first one is a pattern. Wishing I would have done a 3 in rivet spread. I may redo the whole endcap. This my test piece.
Here are the straight cut dimensions. Each side mirrors each other. From bottom to top, edge side, all the numbers are in inches unless stated: 8,5,5,7,9,11
Panoramic window side: first panel up. 3 ft, 5 inches on all the rest.
So far all is working out fine. I should finish it today. More to come. It looks wonderful. Btw, my cost so far per endcap is only about $25 in materials. It think you can make a whole endcap out of one sheet.

[rugjenkins]

Scratch everything from the above post. I just finished one side. It looks good but needs to be tweaked. Plus my wife just added her expertise [emoji106][emoji56]
Starting a new pattern on the other side. It may be a 9 panel with 3 in spacing on rivets. I'm figuring out the tricks[emoji106]

[rugjenkins]

Finished the other side. 9 panel with 3 inch rivet spacing is the way to go. Straight cut panels at 12 inches on the top and let them flow until the side are flush with panel on the bottom. This one went so fast and that includes taking it up and down to buck rivet. I will redo the other side tomorrow and post some pics of it installed. So glad this went so much faster, I was almost dreading the task! Refreshed and perspective adjusted! I love riveting and the natural beauty of the wood[emoji106][emoji1]

[rugjenkins]

Completely finished the front endcap.
Both sides done
Cleo's installed in the center panel
Endcap down. Buck riveting the sides and center together
Endcap installed. Bottom trimmed.
I really like the end product. It's just as strong as the abs one it replaced. Milestone completed.?

[TouringDan]

It looks terrific! Nice work and a great sense of accomplishment.

Dan

[rugjenkins]

Thank you, Dan.
You have encouraged me all along the way since I joined the forum. I really appreciate that. [emoji106][emoji1]

[DDickey]

Originally Posted by rugjenkins

Completely finished the front endcap.
Both sides doneAttachment 305606
Cleo's installed in the center panelAttachment 305607
Endcap down. Buck riveting the sides and center together Attachment 305608
Endcap installed. Bottom trimmed. Attachment 305609
I really like the end product. It's just as strong as the abs one it replaced. Milestone completed.?

That looks fantastic, I love the wood. Getting the endocarps done felt like a major milestone to me too. Once they were done the rest of the interior skins went quickly.

[rugjenkins]

DDickey,
Thank you for the compliment. Honestly, I'm having a small mental hurdle over the interior skins. I'm at the point where the camper starts to look like a camper again. For me it's biggest milestone of the build, mostly because I've desired to be here for so long. I should have all the interior skins on this weekend except for the upper center skin.
Btw, your trailer is looking awesome! Your thread is one I've been following. It encourages me to press on. Great work.

[rugjenkins]

Putting in interior skins. I'm putting in a thermal barrier on top of the hytech paint. I'm using polyethylene silk foam. Only down side is almost all adhesives don't stick to it. It the same material most black and grey tanks are made out of. I used pl3000 adhesive for the initial set. It holds it temporarily until I put the skins on. I have resorted to using gorilla tap to hold it in place until I rivet everything on.

[rugjenkins]

So I have to take a break from the interior skins to find a leak near the front pano. It has eluded me for 2 weeks! Cleaned and resealed above, sides and below pano's. still there! Cleaned and resealed endcaps and seams on the front. Still there! Now I'm using capt tolleys on the rivets holding the frame in. I may have found it or them[emoji106][emoji1]. Now I'm cleaning and resealing the front window and replacing the seals. There's no need to put on the skins with leaks! That's leads to issues. Alas, I will prevail! I will conquer you, the bane of all airstreams! [emoji12]

[rugjenkins]

The marinco power inlet and the progressive dynamics 4645 power converter came in the other day. Whoop whoop. I really like these power converters. All one unit, nice and neat, professional, good quality. I was going to get the 50 amp but decided since I'm only running 1 a/c the extra cost and headache was not worth it.
I choose the marinco over the furrion power inlet because the marinco was shiny[emoji1]
I may put in an inverter also so I can run the apartment fridge while towing.

[rugjenkins]

Cleaning up the windows and replacing the gaskets. 2 down, 5 to go.

[rugjenkins]

Working on the 3rd window. The upper hinge catch had 4 rivets missing. I drilled out all 10 and replaced with buck rivets.

[rugjenkins]

I fought and wrestled putting this window back on the trailer. I tried for 2 hrs to get it in. These side windows on the frames have a slight inward bow. So when I replaced the popped rivets with new ones the curved catch hinge (not the correct name) bowed too and would not go back in. I had to drill out the 4 center ones (the popped ones) to get it to go on. After it was on, I raised the window and buck riveted them on again.

[rugjenkins]

I've decided not to use the girard tankless water heater , I ordered the door and installed it in the original water heater space so I could close up the exterior. I've decided that the original battery compartment was prone to water intrusion so the water heater and battery compartment will be patched. Good news they are side by side. Bad news, I had to cut the belly wrap to install the water heater door. Which messed up the belt line. I removed it tonight and cut the replacement. Hopefully will install belly wrap and patch. I will put in an excel tankless ventless water heater instead of the girard unit. Will save $300.

[rugjenkins]

Picture of removed belly wrap.