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Old 02-16-2016, 04:41 PM   #71
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1975 Argosy 28
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Yes, the wheel wells were cracked and flimsy. I accidentally burned the interior ones (over zealous taking out the olds&#128513. I can't remember if they are caulked and screwed into the frame. They are attached to the exterior skin with rivets. Should be two sets of trim. One goes over the other. The wheel wells and 2nd trim piece are riveted together. The wheel well fits into it. Undo the rivets and it should come apart. I made new ones out of 20 gage sheet metal. Hope this helps. Click image for larger version

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I'll post some pics if the trim and how it goes together when I get home
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:43 PM   #72
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Here's the pics of the wheel well trimClick image for larger version

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1st pic - inner trim that attaches to skin and wheel well slides into the rivet both together
2nd pic- outer trim that goes over 1st trim
3rd pic- under side of wheel well and 1st trim piece.
The bolts are usually rusted out- vise grips and bend to break. Other wise is used a cutoff wheel or grinder.
Hope this helps
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:32 PM   #73
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Installing 2 in foam on underside of floor. This stuff is not cheap! Click image for larger version

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I think it will help on sound deadening too.

Painting the belly wraps so I can install them Saturday! For me this will be a huge milestone. All the exterior back together. Click image for larger version

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The paints not perfect but if can live with it. I may paint the camper soon, before the pollen hits this spring. I don't have a paint booth so I'll be painting it outside. I know it won't be perfect but it will look great anyhow😜
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:18 PM   #74
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What's the idea behind painting the belly pan? Are you making yr entire argosy black?
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:29 PM   #75
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No not the whole camper. I'm thinking of incorporating shiny metal and paint.
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:31 PM   #76
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Maybe something like thishttps://www.google.com/search?q=painted+airstream&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari&safe=active#imgrc=kEEVkbiuHQ MhfM%3A
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:51 PM   #77
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Drying time is as slow as molasses using mineral spirits to thin. I'll use naphtha next time
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:53 PM   #78
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http://www.rv123.com/blog/painted-ai...b2b0830a04282/
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Old 02-19-2016, 08:30 AM   #79
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Matt - Quick question I was thinking about the other day. Once you put the floor in, and put the insulation in, how do you fasten the bottom pan back to the Trailer ? Mine had Buck Rivets that I removed, and with the floor installed I wouldn't be able to get a bucky bar behind them. Do you just use sheet metal screws or something similar?
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:46 AM   #80
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I will use sheet metal screws with flat and lock washers, just in case I need to get back under there. Many use wide flange rivets.

On mine the belly wraps were overlapped on the skins. To much opportunity for leaks. My shell is jacked up 4 inches so I can underlap the belly wraps to the shell. I will use screws to attach the bottom half. I'll post pics this Saturday.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:53 PM   #81
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2 in foam is done on outrigger sectionsClick image for larger version

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Old 02-20-2016, 07:57 PM   #82
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The milestone starts- 1/3 finished with the belly wraps.Click image for larger version

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ID:	257599front door sectionClick image for larger version

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Old 02-20-2016, 10:18 PM   #83
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Thanks again Matt for the info. Also, looks like you did a great job removing the paint !
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:05 AM   #84
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Looking great! How are you finding the buck rivet process? Having not started it yet, I'm feeling a bit nervous about it
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