Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-04-2010, 08:18 AM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
Birdwell57's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Madison , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 120
Blog Entries: 5
Are all curves created equal?

Are the rounded corners of the shell/floor the same on all corners? I got the floor off last night, and as you can see by the photos the back section is going to be impossible to use as a template for the corners. Can I use the front section as a template for the back corners?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...as-simple-764/
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00730.JPG
Views:	66
Size:	182.1 KB
ID:	97437   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00731.JPG
Views:	59
Size:	168.3 KB
ID:	97438  

__________________

__________________
Birdwell57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 08:40 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,912
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
I had the same situation. I trusted my artistic eye to fill out the missing profile sections and found they came up short, there are places that I wish I had another inch of plywood on that radiused curve. Remember the factory is a production line environment with close enough as a final product so it might've been short all along. I used a mirror image from side to side as a go or no go check and it was still wrong.

Find a refrigerator cardboard box, or get a cheap 4x8 sheet of paneling or thin plywood and split it into 4x4 sections and get a custom fitment - my $85 sheet of marine plywood coming up 5/4" short sure was embarrassing.

What you do have is the references for the cut-outs - BUT DON'T TRUST the locations 100%... My BW tank cutout is off by a significant margin. Transfer the outlines to the templates and cut them out 'undersized' so you can find true center on the valves and tank opening before marking on the new floor panels - remember the cut-outs can be done after the floor is installed so you are not locked in to a design even before the floor board goes in!

Also note the now floating final 4' section of shell can & will move, spring back away from bolt alignment or shift from the friction of inserting the plywood floor - I was able to shift the floor around by screwing a 2x4 block to the plywood, standing on the 2x4 and tapping with a sledgehammer as one would use a croquet mallet to walk the plywood into place, and I coerced the C-Channel and shell around into centered alignment with soft cedar 2x4s and hand sledge working on the ribs and from the exterior (over the ribs).
__________________

__________________

Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 08:43 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Hi, I can't speak for your trailer. However on the 55 Flying Cloud I'm restoring the back corner shape is different from the front. My suggestion is to have the shell and "C" channel well braced so it won't wobble around on you. Have someone help hold up a 1/4" sheet of plywood and trace a pattern from the shell shape. I did this with the Cloud and had to allow for minor trimming to make a final fit. I also found that one side of the curve was slightly different that the other. I try to remind restorers that these trailers are had crafted, ie. not all things are the same.
Don
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 08:54 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
68 TWind's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,420
I replaced the rear in my 68 TW. I don't know if the radius on each side were exactly the same. Common sense says they should be, but we are taking about an Airstream-HA. fir I made a template out of cardboard. Used a big sheet from a mattress box. One I got it perfect, I transfered the pattern to a sheet of luan plywood to make the final pattern. Even though the cardboard was perfect, I still had to do a lot of sanding and trimming to get the luan plywood perfect. The luan is light and I was able to take it in and out of the trailer many times before it was just right. The ply flooring is very heavy and very difficult to get into the c-channel. After cutting the heavy ply for the floor, I then beveled the edges that go into the c-channel a little with a belt sander. This greatly eased the installation. I also coated the top and bottom( in about 4 inches from the edge) and all outside edges with West System epoxy resin. Two reasons. First, water protection. Second, after a couple of coats, the edges were rock hard and slick, made final installation much easier. Finally I put 3 coats of spar poly-ur. marine varnish on top and bottom. Water is what killed my first floor so I wanted all the protection I could get.
Finally, you will find on the rear you will not be able to get the whole sheet back in place in one piece. I split my rear sheet along the street side frame rail so the joint would be on top of the rail.
Check out TomW's web site he has on the refrub of his 67 Overlander. He has lots of pics on the floor replacement. 1967 Airstream Overlander

Good luck
__________________
68 TWind is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 09:11 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar

 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,097
Blog Entries: 3
Can you use the c-channel for a pattern? For my rear that was in poor shape I used the C-channel. I attached it to where it was using existing holes (I had some left), layed it on a piece of luan (68TWind's idea-Thank you) and traced. I was able to install the rear rounded section in one piece by sliding it under the rear as I had jacked up the rear shell using a hydraulic jack from the interior.
__________________
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 09:29 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
fotochop's Avatar
 
1969 23' Safari
New Orleans , Louisiana
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 699
Images: 18
I think most of them are different...a $12 sheet of 1/4 inch luan plywood will be money well spent when making your template... scribe from the wall or use the c-channel... or slip under c-channel if possible..

...like many others I had to split my subfloor down the middle to install, not a problem as long as you have ctr support on both middle edges, float and seal everything after..
fotochop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 09:42 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar

 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,097
Blog Entries: 3
Rick,

What did you float and seal with?

Thanks, Michael
__________________
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 12:59 PM   #8
3 Rivet Member
 
Birdwell57's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Madison , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 120
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop View Post
...like many others I had to split my subfloor down the middle to install, not a problem as long as you have ctr support on both middle edges, float and seal everything after..
It never crossed my mind to use the C channel. As you can see by the photo, I don't think I'm going to have a problem getting the plywood back in.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00732.JPG
Views:	71
Size:	166.2 KB
ID:	97448  
__________________
Birdwell57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 01:15 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
fotochop's Avatar
 
1969 23' Safari
New Orleans , Louisiana
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 699
Images: 18
an UNDERSTATEMENT! we should all be so lucky!

and silverhoot, I 'floated' the sanded seam with bondo and sealed the whole shebang with many many coats of 'combi-poly' (a tip I got from Aerowood where you gather up the 4 of 5 cans of leftover polyurethane you have laying around and mix them all together....hey, we're GREEN, eco-friendly, all that!)
fotochop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2010, 09:24 AM   #10
3 Rivet Member
 
Birdwell57's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Madison , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 120
Blog Entries: 5
Anybody have a guestimate on how much west system it would take to seal the edges of the new floor?
__________________
Birdwell57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2010, 10:07 AM   #11
Rivet Master<br><img src="/ugala/forums/images/5rivet.gif">
 
CanoeStream's Avatar

 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,279
Images: 19
Blog Entries: 3
In reinventing complex contours, nothing gets you closer than a story stick -- http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...pes-29321.html

I've had a lot of experience with unthinned epoxy resin losing its bond if the underlying substrate gets damp. And unthinned resin doesn't enter the wood very far at all. What I did on my Argosy was use RotDoctor (thinned epoxy) to penetrate -- plan for a lot because it keeps soaking deeper until it finally sets. I put this on the floor top and edge at the perimeter first.

Then I lightly sanded with 80 grit to give 'tooth' to the surface and then overcoated with SystemThree on the floor edge and back a foot on floor top and under any plumbed area. Don't put any on the underside of the floor -- no seal is perfect and encapsulation will hold moisture forever & accelerate rot. Due to unknown adhesion compatibility, I wouldn't put epoxy under any place you may later glue down marmoleum or whatever.

West epoxy is très chic but so expensive. Yes, they "wrote the book" but... Equally high quality boatbuilding resins like SystemThree or MAS work just as well.

Never machine sand or saw epoxy treated materials unless you are wearing respiratory protection with organic filter canisters. Use gloves to handle unset epoxy (read The Epoxy Book if you are new to big-time epoxy use). Rot Doctor is very volatile -- ventilation and flame advisories -- you know the drill...

After your restoration be sure & test your shell to prevent any water from getting in anyway. Look around for someone with a SealTech machine -- eg, soldiermedic up near St. Louis. But there will be some dealer closer to MS than that.
__________________

__________________
Bob

5 meter Langford Nahanni

CanoeStream is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Equal i zer connection BCMC27 Hitches, Couplers & Balls 6 02-16-2010 06:06 PM
OK all you Equal-i-zer experts Minnie's Mate Hitches, Couplers & Balls 21 09-03-2008 06:45 PM
removing the Equal-I-zer urbanfood Hitches, Couplers & Balls 6 10-19-2007 03:43 PM
Equal-i-zer G&TMTrails Hitches, Couplers & Balls 33 01-16-2007 08:56 PM
One Elec Brake not Equal to Other Three wingfoot321 Brakes & Brake Controllers 1 04-24-2004 04:01 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.