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01-05-2011, 09:14 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1963 19' Globetrotter
1963 22' Flying Cloud
1963 24' Tradewind
,
, Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 245
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Applying POR-15
I am wondering if I should sand blast the frame before applying por 15 or just paint over the rust. The reason I ask is I have herd sand blasting takes away good metal. Also how many coats do I need to do it correctly, and how many quarts will I need to do the Tradewind? Thanks for the help!
__________________
Psalm 67:7
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01-05-2011, 09:20 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1965 22' Safari
Staunton
, Virginia
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 71
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No need to sandblast- just remove any flaking rust. Sandblasting your frame would make the POR ("Paint Over Rust") not adhere as well. I did most of my Safari's frame with one quart- one coat. Two should probably take care of yours with extra. Get good gloves- that stuff stains your skin and tends to splatter.
Brad
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01-05-2011, 10:30 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
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Always do two coats, at least.
Definitely get and use gloves.
I recommend that you get one quart of black and one of gray. When it dries, and if you use only black, it is devilishly difficult to see the difference between the first coat and the new wet coat.
Zep
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01-05-2011, 11:04 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1979 30' Argosy
Havelock
, where we park it
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,652
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Sandblasting won't eat up the good metal if it is done right, use the gun at an angle and keep it moving. I blasted my trailer and it was easier and looked better than where I just painted over rust after using a wire brush.
Marvin
__________________
Marvin & Annie
Niki (fur baby)
1979 Argosy 30 (Costalotta)
WBCCI 10103
"Happiness is a warm Puppy" Charles Schulz
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01-06-2011, 04:34 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,073
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Don't let it get on your skin. They say it isn't toxic, but once it gets on you, it won't come off. I got it all over my hands and had to sandpaper my hands to get most of it off.
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01-06-2011, 07:56 AM
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#6
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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Zepp is spot on and you definitely don't want to get this stuff on you as it is very hard to get off.
Terrified of the bellypan! - Page 5 - Airstream Forums
You might consider touching base with Becky about her experience as well. Airstream Forums - View Profile: beckybillrae
Good luck,
Kevin
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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01-06-2011, 11:00 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,062
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If you do sand blast consider the aggregate choice carefully - you don't need aggressive coal-slag glass or other fast media and collecting & screening & reusing what you do shoot makes it less likely to remove good metal. When you do get bare bright metal the metal prep compounds from POR actually put a coat of rust on so the paint 'bites' better. As cheap as I am I tried using a grill cleaner lye to both clean and prep the bare metal I uncovered around the rusted areas, looked to be a waste of money anyway. My tip is use the store-bought metal prep.
My '73 frame had a oily-creosote based paint on it from the factory - where it hadn't already rusted the POR did not want to adhere very well, even after using the 2 and 3-inch abrasive biscuits with air tools there was still a film remaining that solvent washing just pushed around. I ended up over-painting the fresh and clean looking painted iron inside the frame rails with Derusto spray paint. I used semi-gloss black POR and found it okay to recoat, I also thinned it with their solvent which stretched it and hopefully helped the POR get underneath the original factory paint...
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The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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01-07-2011, 06:53 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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I used one of the cheap Harbor Freight touch-up spray guns and then just through it away after I was done
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01-07-2011, 07:34 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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I have moved over to "Chassis Saver" for my rust treatment and prevention. Same stuff as POR at half the price. I use the silver and really like the high aluminum content (like POR silver)....so far I have seen no deterioration of the silver on the exposed areas.
P.S. I have found that "Rust-O-leum" is worthless. Rust bleeds thru everywhere within months.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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01-07-2011, 07:49 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I used one of the cheap Harbor Freight touch-up spray guns and then just throw it away after I was done
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I use a brush--POR 15 is incredibly self-leveling. Looks like it was sprayed on.
However, getting full coverage back in some of the frame joints is difficult with a brush--a spray might do better.
Zep
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01-07-2011, 08:06 AM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Venice
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 180
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Remember when sandblasting you MUST use a good respirator. Don't put on one of those Harbor Freight dust masks. Silica will eat your lungs up! Be careful!
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01-13-2011, 11:36 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1953 21' Flying Cloud
Encinitas
, California
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 41
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The POR-15 instructions state that a sandblasted surface provides good adherence. POR-15 just needs something to "bite" into. Sandblasting leaves a good, even texture.
I sandblasted my frame and applied 2 coats of POR-15 with very satisfactory results.
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