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Old 01-23-2007, 02:27 PM   #29
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1964 26' Overlander
Alameda , California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
The ones that V.T.S. & Inland RV sell are 5/32" but you can of course drill out the hole to be 5/32" first. You can get them in 1/8" or 3/16" but I haven't found a source (haven't looked very hard either to be honest).

Put a dab of Vulkem on them as you put them in and twist them around a little once they're in the hole to get a seal all the way around and you'll be set.

For a quick fix until you can get some Olympic rivets, you can get normal 1/8" aluminium pop-rivets at Home Depot (etc) that are easy enough to drill out to replace, and will keep the water out until then.

I've put Olympic rivets in many, many holes in the outside (awning & awning rails mostly) and once they're shaved down and polished a little, you wouldn't even know they weren't there back in 1964.

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Old 01-23-2007, 02:31 PM   #30
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1964 26' Overlander
Alameda , California
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Posts: 161
Oh, and along the C-channel you want to use, variously, 1" wood screws in places where there is no frame underneath the floor, self-tapping metal screws where you're joining the shell to the frame through the floor and you have no access to the underside, or you can use bolts in both cases where you have access beneath to tighten them.

I had access underneath and used wood screws every few inches to hold the shell to the floor, and then bolts every foot or so even where there was no frame, and also bolts to connect the shell to the frame. Probably overkill, but many of the original screws had rusted and I wanted to make sure the shell & floor had a good connection.

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Old 02-01-2007, 12:57 AM   #31
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1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville , California
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Originally Posted by stanton66
there is no way around pulling the inside skin off to replace the bolts that run through the c chanel,floor,then the end of the outriggers.this is a must because these bolts hold the body to the frame.
Question here; I am doing a partial floor replacement in the rear of my TW. I do no wish to pull much if any bathroom fixtures or to access the c-channel bolts is there a problem of boring a 1 1/2" or 2" hole in the inside skin at these bolts to access them without pulling the skin? None of the inside skin is visible at the floor level as it is all behind something. A vinyl patch could be glued over this hole when finished with the bolting process. Any opinions?
Thanks, Neil.
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407

Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.

1966 Trade Wind

1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid

1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
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Old 02-01-2007, 04:19 AM   #32
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1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
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Why not, but use alum patches perhaps.
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB
WBCCI R2 Rep VAC 11411 Metro NY VP

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Old 02-01-2007, 12:29 PM   #33
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1964 26' Overlander
Alameda , California
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Posts: 161
Bear in mind that as well as the bolts, there are probably wood screws as well, and you may not be able to locate those as easily as the bolts. Mine were not evenly spaced between bolts or anything sensible like that. On the other hand if you can get the floor out without removing the screws (if it's really rotted, say) you could probably just cut them off and not replace them when you put in the new floor - just use bolts.

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