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Old 01-17-2007, 06:42 PM   #15
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I think the floor was put on before the shell.

Why don't you take a small scrap of the plywood say 12" x 12" and see if it slides under the c channel?
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:49 PM   #16
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Some are definately 5/8" and some are 3/4", but I don't know when they changed. Seems like older ones are 5/8, newer 3/4. My '73 was 3/4". Have you tried a scrap piece of 5/8 just for grins? See how it fits in the channel? I'm trying to remember who has done a '50's model......Over 59 is one guy. A-Merry-Can is another. You might try looking at threads they've started and see what size they used.

Use the "Member Search" feature on the left of the portal page and look at the threads they have started. It'll give you some ideas.

Jim
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:16 PM   #17
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I checked my 71. The floor looks like 3/4. To ask a dumb question, I thought the floor goes in the channel not under it??

The 74 Service manual recommends replacing floor by:
1. remove no more than necessary. use as a template to cut new piece
2. use 4" wide strips for a butt joint gluing edges with a good wood glue. Screws every 2". Extend strips 2" beyond cut out area
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
I checked my 71. The floor looks like 3/4. To ask a dumb question, I thought the floor goes in the channel not under it??
That's another one that depends on the year. Some years ('73, for example) use a "C" channel that the floor slides into. Other years used different types of channel. I can't remember what all of the different varieties are, but it's on the site someplace. Safari-Tim also posted some pictures and information on this subjuct on his site. Look at theVAP - The Vintage Airstream Podcast - Home It was the subject of one of the episodes, IIRC.

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Old 01-17-2007, 07:41 PM   #19
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I have a '64 Overlander too, and the floor is definitely 5/8", and I'm pretty sure the vinyl tiles did not go under the C-channel. I just did the same replacement as you (more details) although only the last 2 feet of the floor.

I did it by removing the belly skin between the frame rails, although if I wasn't into the belly skin anyway to get at the black tank I could've used self-tapping screws from above. I did it in two sections, one left & right, and slid one into the corner, then put the other one into the corner, overlapping a little bit right in the middle, and shoved them in until they were side-by-side. I guess if I had remove the banana wrap I could've put it in from outside in one piece, but I decided I didn't want to mess with it. I can't see how you could put in a single piece that was the full width of the trailer from inside - how could you simultaneously get it under both sides of the C-channel?

My suggestion if I'm understanding your situation right would be, 1) measure the actual height of the floor between the frame and C-channel, and 2) install it in two section and join them together underneath. Again if I'm understanding you right, you plan to put the black tank under the floor from above, which seems a lot more difficult than just dropping some of the belly skin to put it in from underneath - but I may be confused.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:49 PM   #20
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On mine the C-channel sits on top of the floor. The floor doesn't slide into anything in particular, it just goes under the channel and is bolted & screwed to it. In places the frame extends right to the edge of the trailer and so the floor is sandwiched between the frame and C-channel. Across the very back of the trailer, in mine anyway, there is a flat piece of steel going between the frame rails under the C-channel and the floor, channel, and this flat piece are all bolted together there.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:48 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dear Hubby
Ok, well the old floor is 5/8" but it had flooring on it (vinyl Tile), that made it 3/4" thick. Now I am not sure, if the flooring went under the channel, because I had to pull it all up when I was looking for the bolts.

But, in 1964, did they put the flooring on before the shell, or after the shell?

I have no problem getting 5/8" wood, and I have no desire to put 3/4" where 5?8" should be.. but.. I have heard the flooring went under the channel, if it did not then, 5/8" will work.

Also, everyone says 3/4" wood... so..... what do I do..?

And how is your project comming, ya got the floor in yet, because we both have the same year, did you use 5/8" for your new floor?


DH
on my 63 the vinyl did not go under the U channel... it was frame, plywood then the U channel just like a sandwich. and the U channel on the 63 does not have the, what i call a second channel, connected to the U channel that the pylwood would slide into.

i did the shell off route and right now i have everything stripped down and waiting to have the frame sandblasted..... i'm also going to add a fresh and grey tank in the frame... when mine goes back together i will use 3/4 and since mine is completly apart i will not have the problem that you are having (i hope)

here a link to my rehab thread if you want check it out... http://www.airforums.com/forum...hab-26286.html
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Old 01-17-2007, 09:36 PM   #22
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Ok after inspecting the plywood I had left, the tiles did not go under the wall framing, like every trailer I have ever seen made (I love those "How it's made" shows)

I took the floor, with the tiles on it, and it was 3/4" I lined it up to a piece of 3/4" plywood and it was the same.

But since the tiles do not go under the shell in 64, I took a piece to the Home Improvement store and got an exact match. Seems 19/32 was the size I needed.

Now, Since it is late, I am going to cut and install tomorrow.

As for seaming the wood, I plan to do the seams at the frame breaks, so I will not have to lap the plywood down the body (Just like it was first built) the down the middle seam I plan to use the standard 3 overlap with screws at 6 o.c. with glue.

This has been so infuriating, but, As it seems, once again, older trailers, follow different rules.

DH
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:22 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dear Hubby
As for seaming the wood, I plan to do the seams at the frame breaks, so I will not have to lap the plywood down the body
DH
yep, you should find that you have a crossmember to bolt to every four feet working back to front and your last sheet in the front will be less than four feet...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dear Hubby
This has been so infuriating, but, As it seems, once again, older trailers, follow different rules.

DH
thats why when you are parked in a campground in a sea of white and pop-up, pop-out, pop-apart trailers you can say to your self "what a bunch of sissys"
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgregory13
thats why when you are parked in a campground in a sea of white and pop-up, pop-out, pop-apart trailers you can say to your self "what a bunch of sissys"


Ok that was funny !

I needed a good laugh after this mess. thank you !

DH
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:10 PM   #25
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Speaking of seams . .

Make sure you use corrugated fasteners (about one every 4 inches) on the seams, onece you get the flooring in, particularly the seams that go from side to side. This will help keep movement, a type of shimming, from occuring.

Seam movement control is very important, particularly if you use a glue-down flooring.

Calvin (No Hobbs)
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:34 PM   #26
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the floor in your as is 5/8,it is under the c chanel,it can be replaced in one piece but you will fight with it.cut it in half, install half at a time,it will be much easier.you will still have to pry up on c chanel get it under .yes it is fine to use self tappers in the main floor area but,there is no way around pulling the inside skin off to replace the bolts that run through the c chanel,floor,then the end of the outriggers.this is a must because these bolts hold the body to the frame.and remember if its wet in the back, it could be leaking in the front.anyway fix the leaks first.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:06 PM   #27
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Ohh by the Leaks.

The guy before screwed the windows shut, and now.. I have nice 1/8" holes in the shell.. where water is just pouring in.

I can use self tappers though the c channel along the shell, right?

Or do I have to do some kind of bolt job there?

DH
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:20 PM   #28
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holy shells!

Since the holes are in there, would putting in Olympic rivets be a solution that would not look like an out of place fix? They should slip right in to 1/8" holes and match the Airstream rivets closely.
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