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Old 03-06-2007, 10:42 AM   #43
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If you still have that eggsheel effect after you've scrubbed the glass with everything you can think of, plus tried a new single edge razor blade to scrape it as smooth as can be it may mean the glass is pitted.

You can try a little bit of rainex on it, I wouldn't buy a whole jug as I hate the stuff myself for many reasons. but 'borrow' a few drops and squeegee liquid over the rough area, let dry, repeat and then wash the excess off. Something in Rainex fills the minute pores of glass (and plexiglass) to increase their optically clear qualities.

BUT rainex and other repair products are probably mutually exclusive, try the other things first since rainex is very persistent.
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:15 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWAMPBILLIES
...Once he got most of the glass out we were surprised to find the original caulk was still soft. Pulling it out brought most of the edge pieces....Now all we have to do is clean up the single pane, right? Wrong. Our water level was over half way up the glass in both of these windows. When we removed the inside piece and cleaned it out, we were left with this white residue that reminded me of what happens to the glass part of the coffee pot....We have tried everything to remove this white residue. I tried The Works, Vinegar, scrubbing, even buffing with rubbing compound. Nothing. I am hoping someone has some suggestions....Other that the white residue the windows look great. I am so dissappointed after all the work of breaking the inside glass we still do not have clear wing windows.
Even though your outside window is glass, you may want to try this product:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ieldrestor.php

Aircraft Spruce is a great supplier for the aircraft owner and builder, and many of the products carry over to Airstream maintenance.

Of course, if the crazing is really deep, no amount of abrasives will be able to bring back the transparency.

Have you looked into products that telescope makers use to shape and polish their mirrors?
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Old 03-13-2007, 01:12 PM   #45
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We did use sandpaper starting at 400 grit. We are afraid to use it on a drill though because of the tempered glass. I am afraid if it gets too hot or has too much friction it might break.
I am just at a loss with this. I can't believe noone else has had this problem. It looks better without the standing water but we just can't get rid of the white film. If I can't come up with a viable solution I am just going to get a can of that stuff that you spray on glass to make it look frosted. That may at least even it out some. Right now it looks terrible.
Thanks for your suggestion. I was so happy to get the inside glass broken without breaking the outside, I hate to break it now.
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:56 AM   #46
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Well it has been awhile since I updated this thread. Thought I would post a couple of pics of the new developments. Betty has had a few new additions including a new awning and some new drapes and bed covers, but the most exciting thing is the fact that the polishing has begun!!
Lewis has been living in her while working out of town so we have taken on a few small projects but this week end, he started polishing. Below are a couple of shots taken the first day. It looks like it is going to be a long difficult process but boy it sure does make a difference!
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Old 09-04-2007, 07:51 PM   #47
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Debbie, were you ever able to get the glass on those front windows clean? I was trying to take mine apart and inadvertently broke one. Now trying to get them completetly clean. Any suggetstions?

Jim
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Old 09-04-2007, 08:15 PM   #48
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Before and After

Wow,
What a turn around.
You must be proud to see it each day.



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Old 09-04-2007, 08:16 PM   #49
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I wish I had better news for you. We were able to get the inner pane busted out without breaking the outside one, but it is still very corroded. I initially thought it was some type of deposit but I now think the glass is actually etched from the water sitting between the panes for so long. Does yours have that white etching on them also? I'm sorry to hear you broke one. We had thought about trying to buff them with the compound we bought for the skin but afraid it would break it. We have tried everything. I am going to try to cover it up with limosine tint. I hope that works. I just cant see buying new windows.
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Old 09-04-2007, 08:20 PM   #50
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Thanks Klattu!! She has a long way to go, but we are so proud of the progress she has made!
After I posted some of the things we have done I realized I forgotten to mention the pergo flooring and new awning.
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:19 PM   #51
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I only have the curbside window completely apart at this point. It's not too bad. The roadside window is in terrible shape. Since I've got to buy some plexi or Lexan, I think I'll ask around at the glass shops. Maybe one of them will have a good idea.

I like Wabbit's idea about the abrasive used for grinding telescope mirrors. I used to know a guy who actually made his own mirror. As I recall, tho, you have to put a little pressure on the glass to use that stuff. I'll try and pick up a copy of Sky and Telescope magazine this weekend. There used to be several companies that advertzed the materials in there.

I'll let you if I find anything interesting.

Jim
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:24 PM   #52
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Thanks Jim.
I asked at my glass shops and all I got was the deer in the headlight look. It is the pressure required for grinding and buffing that scares me. I hate to come this far and then break it.
Debbie
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:13 PM   #53
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The question of how to clean the interior surface of the window. The water was probably alkaline thus try a diluted solution of muratic acid - wear good rubber goves . Let is set for 5 min. use a contactor's knife blade and scrape the surface. If this works, then use pumace if the surface is rough and serium oxide if smooth. Use an electric drill with a buffing wheel. This should get you down to a smooth and polished surface. Best of luck. Ernie

P.S. My friends who are in the glass business tell me that if care is taken, you should be able to take the window apart. And if a curved window is broken one can be made which will replicate the original; try to save the original in one piece if possible - all at a smaller cost than buying a new window. The desicant gaskets can be gotten from a glass shop if they will co-operate with you.

My windows have weep holes in the bottom of the frame. If the desicant is old then the window will still fog but no swiming hole.
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:42 PM   #54
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The pressure required to grinding is generally little more than just the weight of the buffing piece that sets on top. The process is very slow. The grits are: (You may not need the 120 grit.)
120 grit is next. You must grind out the 80 grit pits using 120
until all the pits are 120 grit. Then proceed to the next grit.
220 grit is usually next. This is a fine powder. This will leave
your mirror surface with a nice luster.
240 grit can be used next.
320 grit can be used next. This will leave a reflective luster. If
you get scratches at this grit go back one grit.
400 grit is getting pretty fine.
600 grit is very fine and you can stop here and polish out from
600 grit if something happens to your grinding tool. It will
take 100's of hours to polish out from 600 grit.
800 grit is very fine and the small the grit you can grind to now
will shorten the polish hours needed.
1000 grit is like talcum poweder, and scratching your mirror by
any dust or other contamination is very easy at this stage.
1200 grit is almost polilshing compound particle size. If you get throught the 1200 grit with out a scratch you are lucky and ready for a good poilsh.

Have fun, Ernie
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:56 PM   #55
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Smile removing silicone

Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampBillies
I got most of the silicone off fairly easily. Then I just had the little patches left. And they have beaten me. I have tried everything. I have scoured this forum for solutions. First I tried looking for that Hoppes #9 solvent that I saw recommended. I looked everywhere. Got blank stares. So I bought some mineral spirits. I might have well just spit on it. So back to the forum.
Try lacquer thinner or alcohol; both products are used by glass and tile people for removing silicone. After wetting the silicome use a new one sided razor blade and then a lint free 4" square cloth soaked in alcohol or laquer thinner (wear good rubber gloves). Best Ernie
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