amateur frame repair????

[Jim in Pima]

HELP
My 1975 Airstream Sovereign has a serious broken frame, curb side
just back of the rear wheels. If has been reinforced in the past, looks
like boiler plate bolted on over the axles, then another steel piece with holes in it welded behind that. The crack runs down from the top nearly
to the bottom, but again this is reinforced with a "skid"
Finding a local welder to come over and fix it is not working.
Thought, could I get some 1ft 1/4 x 12" x 2 bars and bolt them
through with 1/2 8 rated bolts, say 4 per bar, and put 2 or 3 bars
across the break? I have no idea how to weld, wish I did, and at
78 I am at a loss.

[overlander63]

Jim, can you tow the trailer to a welding shop?

[Stefrobrts]

There has to be a welder out there that will come over and fix it, or let you take it to their shop if it still rolls. I had to ask around, but I found a welder to come repair the 7 or so breaks I found in my frame when I replaced the floor. Solid as a rock now.

[J. Morgan]

I don't think you will be able to fix the frame with a bolt on solution. These trailers are weak right over the axles.

The best fix is going to be accomplished by removing the prior patches and welding in some structural support with the trailer jacked into the proper position.

Is the trailer immobile, or can it travel to a welding shop. There are mobile welders that will come on site, the trick is finding one.

[Jim in Pima]

Hi Thanks to all for the response.
With a little work the trailer can be moved, the belly pan has been dropped to
get to the rear of the frame, a few rivets will hold it in place, also there has
been separation in the rear, I have it jacked back into place but have not fastened it, so this will drop out again when I move it. The frame over the axles was factory reinforced many years ago, too bad they did not got back further. I think the main cause was the type 27 battery mounted in the rear, we always made sure we did not travel with full holding tanks as it has suffered sag since I got it 10 years ago. Had it inspected by Uwe at
a restore rally and he thought it would be fine. Anyhow moved the battery to a vented airtight case up front. We just completed living full time in it
for 6 months while house hunting, I do not recommend that long a stint.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

Can you post photos? I think a lot of what was described by the OP and the last poster was factory normal and not add ons by others.

[Jim in Pima]

http://www.airforums.com/attachments...6/1/crack1.jpg
I really have no idea how to post photos, but his should be the link to the
crack photos

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jim in Pima

http://www.airforums.com/attachments...6/1/crack1.jpg
I really have no idea how to post photos, but his should be the link to the
crack photos

Photo shows lots of rust.

Basically, the crack is a fatigue crack, which is caused by lack of proper running gear balance.

Andy

[J. Morgan]

That is going to be a difficult fix to think through. It can be done by a welder who is a good thinker.

I think the repair might be best accomplished from the other side of the frame.

Jack the trailer into place plus a little extra lift in the back, and fishplate over the frame for several feet in each direction.

Of course i am speculating without seeing a picture of the other side of the frame.

[J. Morgan]

As an addendum, I don't think the repair itself will be that difficult, complicated, or expansive, it will just need to be well thought out and planned.

[Jim in Pima]

Hi Andy We discussed balance when I bought new axles from you,
my Aluminum Wheels present a problem.
I had new radial tire put on for this last trip (3000 miles) when we moved
east. The dealer was supposed to have balanced the tires, on my old
set of bias ply I used the ceramic pellets to balance them and it seemed to work but we put the new tires on when one of the bias failed while traveling. Could have been the straw that broke the ol gals back.
I just want it fixed, getting camping-itis

[Jim in Pima]

It bothers me, that this is/has been a long term problem with the rear bath
sovereign, why them isn't more information available, other then those that do a shell off rebuild.??????I mean that would be great if one could afford it and had the shop to do it.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jim in Pima

Hi Andy We discussed balance when I bought new axles from you,
my Aluminum Wheels present a problem.
I had new radial tire put on for this last trip (3000 miles) when we moved
east. The dealer was supposed to have balanced the tires, on my old
set of bias ply I used the ceramic pellets to balance them and it seemed to work but we put the new tires on when one of the bias failed while traveling. Could have been the straw that broke the ol gals back.
I just want it fixed, getting camping-itis

What is the flat spot dimension on the backside of your mag wheels?

Andy

[J. Morgan]

Ok, not exactly your situation, but it should give you some ideas.

When I put the axles under my trailer I raised the trailer three inches, and I worked with a bit of sag at the same time.



My idea for your trailer would be to jack up the rear and fishplate a piece of 1"x 2" angle over a long section of the frame behind the wheels, simple, easy, and done.

I would probably run something across the bottom at the same time.

[J. Morgan]

Oops sorry I forgot to add the last picture.

Here is where I would put the 3/8" angle. Right under the body.

[Roadrunner]

J. Morgan...what holds the 3/8" angle? The bolts for the axle? Did you attach to the frame anywhere else? Did you run the support the entire way and cut out for the axles or stop short of the axle cutout in the mounting bracket/frame? Using the plate did it affect the width of the axles fitting between the frame rails? Just curious. Thanks!

Bob
Indiana, PA

TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[J. Morgan]

The angle is welded to the frame, it is about five feet long and we cut notches in the angle for the axles by dropping their locations using a simple framing square.

I jacked the back of the trailer aggressively to straighten it up before welding the angle.

[Roadrunner]

That makes sense. I didn't notice the welds in the pictures. Any clearance problems with the new axles? Specifically the inside fit between the frame (with the angle welded on)?

Bob
Indiana, PA

TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[Jim in Pima]

Thank you
I already have 1/4 boiler plate someone bolted over the axles, it is
fine, it is just aft of that it broke. One thing that made it worse it the
wheel well had a hole in it, for years I guess, a blowout?? Anyhow
the area back of it had 3 inches of dirtbuilt up, that rusted the bottoms off
the frame outriggers, I repaired the hole soon after I got it, but never dropped the ourside banana rap to inspect it. But this caused a lot of frame rust.

[J. Morgan]

We stitch welded to the bottom edge of the frame and extended some gusseting from higher up on the inside of the frame to stiffen up the inside edge,

I was and still am considering tying the two sides together with some square tube. My common sense says that the axles being in place is enough.... But my sense of caution and tendency to overbuild is 99% going to get the best of me.

Clearance all around is much better than before, everywhere.

And.... As a bonus my Airstream looks more masculine sitting up high
...