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Old 06-13-2014, 12:44 PM   #15
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Oops sorry I forgot to add the last picture.

Here is where I would put the 3/8" angle. Right under the body.

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Old 06-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #16
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J. Morgan...what holds the 3/8" angle? The bolts for the axle? Did you attach to the frame anywhere else? Did you run the support the entire way and cut out for the axles or stop short of the axle cutout in the mounting bracket/frame? Using the plate did it affect the width of the axles fitting between the frame rails? Just curious. Thanks!

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Old 06-13-2014, 01:22 PM   #17
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The angle is welded to the frame, it is about five feet long and we cut notches in the angle for the axles by dropping their locations using a simple framing square.

I jacked the back of the trailer aggressively to straighten it up before welding the angle.
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:27 PM   #18
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That makes sense. I didn't notice the welds in the pictures. Any clearance problems with the new axles? Specifically the inside fit between the frame (with the angle welded on)?

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Old 06-13-2014, 01:27 PM   #19
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Thank you
I already have 1/4 boiler plate someone bolted over the axles, it is
fine, it is just aft of that it broke. One thing that made it worse it the
wheel well had a hole in it, for years I guess, a blowout?? Anyhow
the area back of it had 3 inches of dirtbuilt up, that rusted the bottoms off
the frame outriggers, I repaired the hole soon after I got it, but never dropped the ourside banana rap to inspect it. But this caused a lot of frame rust.
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:12 PM   #20
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We stitch welded to the bottom edge of the frame and extended some gusseting from higher up on the inside of the frame to stiffen up the inside edge,

I was and still am considering tying the two sides together with some square tube. My common sense says that the axles being in place is enough.... But my sense of caution and tendency to overbuild is 99% going to get the best of me.

Clearance all around is much better than before, everywhere.

And.... As a bonus my Airstream looks more masculine sitting up high
...
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:18 PM   #21
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If the rust isnt everywhere you can build around it so long as you have enough solid structure to weld to.

I am thinking that the crack is due to stress and fatigue, and that the rust has really attacked the open edge of the crack.
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:20 PM   #22
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A person COULD bolt metal in using a lot of 7/16" or 1/2" bolts but welding would be better over the long term and easier in the short term.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:58 AM   #23
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Looking at the photo, I see very typical metal for that era.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:47 AM   #24
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Note;;,;

The diameter bolts I am talking about above refers to shank diameter, not wrench size.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:56 AM   #25
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Before you get too far into the repair have you inspected the rear end of the trailer to rule out rear end separation which is VERY common on this era trailer. If you don't have problems back there then you are in the minority. The frame is supported by the shell. If it is hanging free back there, then most likely any repair will end up with the same result. I think the damage is due to rust and overstress. Steel won't fatigue unless it is also overloaded. Simple vibration is not enough to cause this. Most likely, the damage was caused by dead axels and the rear end flopping around every time you hit a bump. Unbalanced running gear can be a contributing factor but I don't think it is the main cause.

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Old 06-14-2014, 09:31 AM   #26
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There is a lot of leverage in play over the axles, in my observation the frame is prone to bend around the axle at the notch for the axles, placing a lot of stress in the local area, and movement which induces fatigue.

I know for sure that when I pulled my trailer on worn out axles for 5,000 miles caused damage.

I am pleased at how much damage I was able to get out shell on.

I think the OP just wants to get out and camp this year. If this was my goal I would consider making a good frame repair and saving probable issues in the back for later repair.
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:59 PM   #27
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SAVED! I hope. Tried all over to get a welder to come to the house as trailer was apart and blocked up. Finally put a ad on Craigslist. After a week got
1 call. Man has a side job doing welding, mostly trailers. Days he is a pipe welder for a large corp. He showed up, worked about 2 hours, welded a angle
piece across the top of the crack, then 1/4 plates about 8 inches long on either side. Took jacks out and it is holding, 1st trip will tell, got it all back together. Anyhow charged about $200 He said cause was frame rusted through at that point. He did burn one hole through the plywood floor, about quarter size
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:17 PM   #28
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Good deal!!

Happy camping !!!
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