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Old 06-15-2009, 10:08 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander View Post
I put the rear piece of floor in yesterday - I'm starting from the back and moving forward, repairing the frame and painting it as I go. I had hoped to do it all in one piece, but in the end I cut it down the middle and installed it in two pieces as it didn't seem as if the shell was going to flex enough to do it in one piece. I used a router to bevel the top and bottom of the edge of the plywood where it needs to go into the C-channel. I also used a rubber mallet to gently tap the C-channel into position over the edge of the plywood from the outside of the trailer.

I think the pieces in the middle of the trailer will go in in one piece - not sure about the front piece, but on my Sovereign it's not a full sheet, so it might.

At the rear of the trailer the frame hangs down a bit unless it is supported, unlike the front of the trailer where the frame is supported by the jack. Would it be easier if you supported the frame rails behind the point where you're replacing the front piece of plywood? This would transfer more of the weight to the wheels and perhaps allow the frame to flex and separate a bit more from the shell, giving you more space to slide the plywood in. I'd keep a bit of weight on the jack at the front for stability.

Grant
Grant.

The frame must be level when replacing the floor as your trying to do. Use some jacks at the rear of the frame.

Cutting the big sheets in half, weakens the monocoque construction.

How are you planning on joining the flooring at the side to side seams? That must also be done.

Andy
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:28 PM   #44
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1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
Milton , ON
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Grant.
The frame must be level when replacing the floor as your trying to do. Use some jacks at the rear of the frame.

Cutting the big sheets in half, weakens the monocoque construction.

How are you planning on joining the flooring at the side to side seams? That must also be done.
Andy
I have the frame supported at the rear, and the frame is level. I joined the two pieces at the back with a piece of 5/8" plywood along the bottom of the seam and glued with WEST System epoxy and screwed from the bottom into the floor plywood. The side to side seams will fall over cross members like they did in the original floor, and they too will be joined with 5/8" plywood, glued and screwed from underneath. For those of you who are not familiar with the 70s frames, the cross members under the plywood joints are 5/8" lower than the regular cross members, which allows space for the strip of plywood.
I don't intend to cut any other pieces in half, just the rear one. I probably would have been able to spread the shell enough to put the rear piece of floor in whole if I had removed more of the bolts connecting the shell to the frame, but I was concerned about removing that much support. I'm not planning on cutting any of the other sheets of plywood.
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1946 Spartan Manor
1954 Va-Ka-Shun-Ette
1964 Overlander
1965 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
1974 Sovereign
2005 F-350 SRW 4x4 crew cab long box
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