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Old 05-28-2009, 04:34 PM   #15
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Regarding the pipes - they are PVC. I'd simply cut them at a spot where it would be easy to re-join them together using a coupling. Then they are out of way for the floor removal and replacment, but easy to re-install when you're ready. Just remember to leave enough of a straight piece on each side of the cut for the coupling (1 to 1 1/2 inches). 4 couplings, some cleaner, and pvc cement would be all you would need to put them back in place.

Chris
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:59 PM   #16
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Framing Issue Exposed

Now it is time to have a drink... I am not sure if my issue can be fixed. I pulled down half of my belly panel (up to the wheels). I noticed that the framing beam the runs length ways (front to rear) is broken in two. This is not a good day... I hope someone has a suggestion to pull me out of my funk.
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Old 05-29-2009, 04:40 PM   #17
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Post some pictures of the frame so we can cry with you and then come up with some suggestions on how you should process. Notice I said proceed not give up!

We had frame issue and rust issue, Along with a lot of other issues, but we addressed them and they are now fixed and we hope to take our first camping trip next week end!

Your best bet is if you don't have a welder is to hire someone to come and cut out the bad section of frame and peice it back in. You will have to rip out the floor to do it though.

Annette
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Old 05-29-2009, 04:52 PM   #18
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Framing Photos...

Thanks for the encouraging words... I certainly don't want to be part of the 30% of Airstreams not still on the road. The break in the beam seems to be located between the door's step and the trailer wheel.

I just returned from the Airstream Factory about two weeks ago. They worked on the camper and did work around the step. I realize they did not cause this issue, but I would have expected them to notice it.

Ok, please offer those suggestions... I may get kicked out of this thread and moved to framing 101.

Thanks everyone & have a great weekend!

Robert
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:46 PM   #19
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Looks to me like your main frame rail is ok, but it's hard to tell from the pic. Not sure what that board is under the plywood. Is that maybe an old repair? Everything is fixable and a welder can make something that looks pretty bad be just as good as new.

Get the rest of your subfloor up and the bellypan off and see how you look then. Bet it won't be as bad as you think it is now.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:51 AM   #20
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Belly Pan Removal

So far I have the front of the axle portion of the bellypan unriveted. Do I continue taking the rivets out and the pull the belly pan out from the rear of the camper? I looks like one continuous sheet.

I hope to get some work done today and tomorrow on it.
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Old 05-30-2009, 03:16 PM   #21
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since we are 101. lets disscuss rivit removal. What size rivits for what rivits where? dose one just drill the top off so the skin comes off. Whats this cleo stuff I assume its an alingment procedure. How about the rounded top ones, center punch or what. Whats the drill bit made of steel, carbon, ect. top to bottom or bottom to top. What size drill bits (one fit all). send a link to the rivit master for detailed explicit how to....thank you ahead off time humblely yours 63 safari...
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rslaymaker View Post
So far I have the front of the axle portion of the bellypan unriveted. Do I continue taking the rivets out and the pull the belly pan out from the rear of the camper? I looks like one continuous sheet.

I hope to get some work done today and tomorrow on it.
I'd probably go ahead and get the belly pan off.

Maybe ought to think about some support for your shell. It looks like you've removed all the plywood from under the C channel and that's fine. But the only thing holding the shell up when you get the plywood removed will be the steel plates center front and rear (probably rear, but not on my '57). It'd be a good idea to get some pieces of 3/4" plywood slid under the C channel where you have the outriggers.

You're likely at that stage where you need to decide how far into it you need to go: repair just that area, do the whole floor and repair and paint the frame, and whether to do it shell on or shell off.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:03 PM   #23
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Will welding happen from the top or bottom? So if I put the plywood down, will I the welder be able to complete their work? Thanks for the tip... I don't what the top part to not be attached to anything. No work done today... Hoping to have a productive day tomorrow with the Airstream.
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:38 PM   #24
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Will welding happen from the top or bottom? So if I put the plywood down, will I the welder be able to complete their work? Thanks for the tip... I don't what the top part to not be attached to anything. No work done today... Hoping to have a productive day tomorrow with the Airstream.
You'd want to leave it open for welding. Just some small strips of plywood on the outriggers is all you need for support. I left a strip of original floor in mine and it's still like that as I'm getting ready to go to the welder.

See what Shari, InsideOut, did here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...&postcount=113

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:05 AM   #25
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Steve, Thanks again... In Shari's picture the under belly is not removed, correct? I hope I that is right... Because I have started to remove the entire sheet that attaches to the frame from beneath the trailer. I thought that was the under belly.

If I am correct... I don't think I got an answer on this question. I remove all the rivets from the under belly... and since it runs between the frame and the axle. I will need to pull the entire sheet from the rear of the trailer. Is that a correct assumption?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:58 AM   #26
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Yes, they left theirs on. Hard to weld with it on, though.

Sounds like the plan on yours, off in one piece. If you can think ahead far enough, you can maybe cut it into a couple of sections. Mine had a seam right down the longitudinal center and I cut it in half by the axle for 4 pieces. I did this as I knew I'd be adding tanks fore and aft of the axle, so I'd be modding the pan there anyway.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-31-2009, 10:39 AM   #27
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You are right... Mine does have a seam down the middle. The suggestion of cutting the long pieces by the axle will make it significantly easier to proceed. If that worked for you I will go that route... Thanks so much, for now back to the camper to do some cutting.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:47 AM   #28
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At this point, waiting on welders and their estimates. The $800 from one is out of my price range, hoping something better comes along. Maybe a different approach that could reduce the price. The situation does not look good.
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