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Old 11-15-2014, 03:31 PM   #43
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They could have drilled a half inch hole and pulled the wires through a waterproof grommet.
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Old 01-04-2015, 03:38 PM   #44
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BoldAdventure – I just read your post and have had a very similar experience with my 2007 International 25FB.

Did you repair the damage yourself or take the trailer to a repair center? What kind of $ damage can one expect to fix a floor issue like this? Did the whole trailer have to have new linoleum put down?

Thanks – and hope your repairs are behind you.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:02 PM   #45
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Wow, so sorry for replying to this thread so late. We've been doing this in stages, when I get free time.

So here is an update, the cost wasn't very expensive. Just a little time consuming.

First I removed all the bad wood. Which was a messy process.



Lots of vacuuming.

I cut close to the supports so I could screw back into the original spots, in one place I had to cut where I could not do that, but it's under the couch, and used fiberglass resin to hold the seam.



After that, we primed the floor with oil based primer sealer stain & mold blocker.



Then we purchased new laminate for the entire Airstream. Total cost of all this was about $300.00.

WAY CHEAPER THAN ANY SHOP. And, let me tell ya, total time spent is probably 3 nights. Why it takes places 4-6 weeks is beyond me.

We purchased the plank flooring, which is going in sometime.... eventually...

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Old 03-06-2015, 08:59 AM   #46
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Making progress, we chose a light flooring color.

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Old 03-06-2015, 10:22 AM   #47
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New flooring looks great! Did you remove all the cabinets to lay the flooring?
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:43 AM   #48
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TinTin; yes/no. We removed the couch & dinette to fix the floor, and I removed the bed in the back and night stands, but the storage portion under the bed I left in place. The kitchen area is also in tact. But I sliced out all the old flooring at the walls with a razor blade.

We are not running this into the bathroom area. We are going to do something a little different and are getting the "stone" looking squares to go in there. Thought that might be unique.
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:01 PM   #49
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You doing that without trim around the sink? Looks clean as you have it. What about the walls? And I really like the color choice.
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Old 03-06-2015, 06:54 PM   #50
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Thanks on the color. We're in love with it, especially against the dark grain.

We unscrewed the trim around the sink to slide the pieces underneath as close as we could. The walls, as close as humanly possible. The original wall trim, is really disgusting, I threw it all away. Going to have to find a replacement, either from Airstream or another route.

It's a good thing I have a helper.

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Old 03-06-2015, 07:07 PM   #51
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What flooring did you choose? It looks like stick together joints. I've read that type can separate from extreme temperatures.

Are you going to put in quarter round molding?

How did you get the new subfloor pieces under the shell edges?

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Old 03-07-2015, 06:12 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
What flooring did you choose? It looks like stick together joints. I've read that type can separate from extreme temperatures.

Are you going to put in quarter round molding?

How did you get the new subfloor pieces under the shell edges?

Kelvin

Define extreme temperatures and I asked about the molding above. Have to find a solution. In most places we don't need it however.

See attached diagram. Top will tell you the only way to get the best permeant fix is to take off the interior walls and open the belly pan. I opted to not go this route, and use a method others have used. I removed the section that was rotten carefully and then notched my wood to fit around the bolts in the wall seam area of the c-channel. Pain in the butt.
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Old 03-07-2015, 06:17 PM   #53
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This might work accept in the main attachment points at the front and rear of the trailer.

Perry

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Originally Posted by BoldAdventure View Post
Define extreme temperatures and I asked about the molding above. Have to find a solution. In most places we don't need it however.

See attached diagram. Top will tell you the only way to get the best permeant fix is to take off the interior walls and open the belly pan. I opted to not go this route, and use a method others have used. I removed the section that was rotten carefully and then notched my wood to fit around the bolts in the wall seam area of the c-channel. Pain in the butt.
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Old 03-07-2015, 06:20 PM   #54
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Thumbs up Mostly Finished Product

And now the mostly finished product. Please excuse the poor lighting/mess. As we just finished most of this today. Just a few final detail pieces to go. If you are wondering, we did not go into the bathroom with it. I have something different in mind for the bathroom.













The color is Coventry Oak and yes it's Resilient Planks. What they do in "extreme" temperatures I'll wait to see for myself.
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Old 03-07-2015, 08:18 PM   #55
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Looks good. Nice color choice. You might consider some small aluminum cove moulding for the areas where trim might be required. I'm sure the vinyl planks will perform just as well as the sheet vinyl that Airstream used in your trailer originally.
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Old 03-08-2015, 09:38 AM   #56
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Looks like Home Depot TrafficMaster Allure. Since you will be full timing soon your floor will not be exposed to temperature swings over the course of the year like most of us who have to store during the year and expose the floor to temperatures that can swing from < 0F to >100F. These residential floors aren't designed for RV use and many warn about temperature restrictions.

The only flooring I've found that has specific RV uses is Beauflor.

Syntec Industries > RV

Your floor looks very nice. I hope you have good results with it.

Kelvin
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