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Old 09-23-2012, 08:03 PM   #477
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1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
yeah, that gap in your pic is pretty much the exact profile of where the rear x-member protrudes on mine. Did yours not stick out there, originally?
There wasn't much left of it to tell really.
It looked like this-

http://cdn.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1289348981

http://cdn.airforums.com/forums/atta...0&d=1295823781

I would, and did, make sure that the bolts go through the U channel, sub-floor and the rear cross member. Mine wasn't actually a cross member, but an inverted steel C channel.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:26 PM   #478
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heh, well, at least the bolts were going through (what was left of) it.

Amazing that mine is actually pretty solid, especially the top part. The bottom edge...not so much. It could probably be salvaged if it wasn't for some of the other areas where there is actually some perforation.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:26 AM   #479
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1981 31' Excella II
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My 81 has a solid c-channel across there and the channel was facing towards the rear not forward. It would make it harder to skin the rear area like I did if that beam were sticking out. So maybe it was a good thing they screwed up and had the beam too far forward on mine.

Perry
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #480
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1970 29' Ambassador
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Hold Dowm plate

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Originally Posted by Top View Post
Here are some pics of the skin under the rear hatch and the .06" stainless hold down plate from inside.
Attachment 127603Attachment 127604
Attachment 127605Attachment 127606
Is you hold down plate 36" in length and i assume that it rivets between the shell and Chanel is it centered mine was so far gone that i am having trouble trying to figure it out any help would be appreciated .
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:29 AM   #481
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1972 31' Excella 500
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Outer skin pigtail

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Originally Posted by Colin H View Post
Yeah, anywhere on the main frame rails. Use a ground lug.
Colin
I would suggest a "pigtail" wire from the rear mounting plate to ground as an extra safety measure to prevent energized "skin" from any errant voltage.Keep up the great work you are a talented instructor and you are providing a wealth of information and OJT that we are very appreciative of.I will be following your lead approximately 2 years hence.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:21 AM   #482
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Ronco Tanks

Lance,

Your tanks from Ronco are look like they are ABS or Fiberglass but when I called they told me theirs were Polyethylene.

Can you advice?

I really like your set up I want to generally copy it. I have to see if I can relocate or work around my attached levelers.

Anyway If you could let me know I sure would appreciate it.

Tony
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:45 AM   #483
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Tony,
Yes, they are roto-molded poly.
I took the stabilizers off and use two small aluminum screw jacks on the rear.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:31 AM   #484
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Hi Lance

Following your lead I picked up the 17H for my Black and Grey water tanks from Ronco. Rich treated me well and I recommend them to others. We are in the process of building frames pretty much like the ones you did. No sense in reinventing the wheel.

I was curious, you said you were going to wait awhile to enclose the tanks, have you done that yet and if so what did you come up with?

I also was wondering when you come from your grey tanks to the in front of black tank valve am I seeing it right that it is three inch? In the picture of your grey tank outlet it has the 1 1/2" reducer, so is that to carry water from both tanks. Anyway, read through your thread again and many thanks it is a bit of a guiding force in my attempt at bringing some more life to my 1973 TW.

Thanks

Tony

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Old 04-03-2013, 03:03 PM   #485
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Hi Lance

Here is our version of your tank carrier design. We didn't hang it off the frame quite the same as you did my buddy decided to weld a "block" and drop it on the leg of the channel stringers.

Also at the outlet area we you some flat bar we had on hand double up. The pedigree is all yours.


Thanks for your example

Tony
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:28 PM   #486
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1964 24' Tradewind
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We just bought a 1964 TradeWind 24'. It was renovated by the previous owner and the sheet goods in the main part of the trailer are getting pretty tatty. I have a couple of big pieces of Marmoleum but since the new cabinets are already installed, I am very reluctant to disturb them. I am thinking about taking out the old sheet floor and installing 1/4" Baltic Birch sub floor. Were crossing our fingers that the frame is OK. Is there a good way to check without tearing everything up?
I'm attaching a photobucket link so you can get some idea.
Airstream Land Yacht Photos by wolffullmoon | Photobucket

This is our first trailer and we are very excited to get it out.
Put a new axle and jacks under it as well as wheels and tires. Safety stuff is more important than cosmetics.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:04 AM   #487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolffullmoon View Post
Were crossing our fingers that the frame is OK. Is there a good way to check without tearing everything up?
Crossing your fingers has never worked for me. Hopefully you have better "luck" with that than I have. The only way to know if the frame is sound is to remove the belly pan, all the nasty fiberglass insulation and rodent nests and look with your own eyes. You'll know what you have and won't need to cross your fingers.

Congratulations on the new to you trailer. Like having children, your life will be changed forever!
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:50 PM   #488
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Great thread top, I'm working on the rear separation of a 1971 sovereign and this has been the most helpful thread i've found. I'm headed down to benning in august, the plan is to live out of the Airstream, original AC still works, for now......

Got a few questions for you, I need to add a grey tank, in the next frame opening up from the black tank, I have zero welding skills, know of an alternative bracing system for the new tank? Also i dont know how to plumb it in with everything, should i just join it to the existing black tank? if so what would be the most cost efficient and painless way of connecting the current grey water run off into the dual black tanks? currently the black water runs into the tailgate hatch and I would like to elbow it to a street side valve. Do I need to weld a hole like yours?
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Old 10-15-2016, 05:19 PM   #489
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Top, regarding your Marmoleum installation, if you wanted to lay Marmoleum all the way into the rear bath could you have done that with one continuous piece or would you have had to lay a separate piece in the bath area. Would the seam show and would it eventually spread apart due to temperature fluctuations despite being glued down?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:01 PM   #490
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Welding

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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Top, regarding your Marmoleum installation, if you wanted to lay Marmoleum all the way into the rear bath could you have done that with one continuous piece or would you have had to lay a separate piece in the bath area. Would the seam show and would it eventually spread apart due to temperature fluctuations despite being glued down?

Thanks

Kelvin
Kelvin,
The Marmo was used in the front to mimic the finish of the rear half of the trailer. It was never a consideration to cover the rear half.

It can be done. If properly installed, you would only see the seam under the bed or in the closet. If you have marmot installed by a Pro, they can weld the two sheets together. The sheets are 2m wide.
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