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Old 06-06-2012, 08:51 PM   #407
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What type of insulation did you use below the floor?
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:54 PM   #408
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Looks awesome. I agree totally with you on the insulation. I had done some homework in "tiny home building" before going airstream, and they recommend strongly against the pink stuff. One main point is the amount of condensation that is produced from drastic temp differences in/out of the small space ends up collecting in the spongey pink insulation and rotting the house from the inside out.

What type of insulation are you using, and where are you getting most of your supplies? It seems there are a hand full of specialty items used to deal with sealing the aluminum, and I would imagine that's mail order. But is the majority of this stuff available at loses/home depot?
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:01 PM   #409
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Way to go Scotty for the assist!
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:16 PM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilermaker View Post
What type of insulation did you use below the floor?
See below
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Originally Posted by TxBxSx View Post
Looks awesome. I agree totally with you on the insulation. I had done some homework in "tiny home building" before going airstream, and they recommend strongly against the pink stuff. One main point is the amount of condensation that is produced from drastic temp differences in/out of the small space ends up collecting in the spongey pink insulation and rotting the house from the inside out.

What type of insulation are you using, and where are you getting most of your supplies? It seems there are a hand full of specialty items used to deal with sealing the aluminum, and I would imagine that's mail order. But is the majority of this stuff available at loses/home depot?
Thanks!

The insulation I am using is two layers of 1" Dow Super Tuff-R polyiso. I got the idea from Frank. Thanks Frank! Timeless also uses it. It is very labor intensive, but I think it is well worth it.

I recently bought some Ecobatt from Knauff. It is what Airstream started using in 2013 models. It soaks up as much water, if not more than, the pink stuff. I'll be taking it back to Eco-Wise.

I get the majority of my supplies from Heights Lumber and Supply, a local Ace hardware store and lumber yard. I get most of my propane items from Smith and Smith Propane and hardware. I get my plumbing supplies from Hamm and McCreight, a local plumbing supply place. I like to buy local when I can. I only go to Lowe's and Home Depot if I can't get it from a local hometown store. I also get a lot of things from Fastenal, VTS and Out of Doors Mart. I get all of my electrical stuff from Randy at Bestconverter.com.

Good luck with your restorations.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:18 PM   #411
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Way to go Scotty for the assist!
Thanks, Steve.
Yes it is great to have help. He wants to learn some mechanical skills and earn some money to buy a car. I think after the summer is over, he'll be able to say his summer was well spent.
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:47 AM   #412
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Thanks for the info on the insulation. Do you leave an airspace between the underside of the floor and the Tuff-R?
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:27 AM   #413
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Thanks for the info on the insulation. Do you leave an airspace between the underside of the floor and the Tuff-R?
I did not specifically attempt to have an airspace between the floor and the insulation, however there is a small 1/4"-3/8" gap just because of the outrigger and crossmember overhangs, e-bolts, sheet joining cleats etc. The polyiso is a far superior insulation than the fiberglass as installed from Airstream. We don't do a whole lot of cold weather camping down here, but we might need the high quality insulation on some trips up north in the future.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:28 AM   #414
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So, it looks like you epoxy both sides of the floor? no issue with the wood being able to "breath"?

I'm a little concerned with having the rigid foam tucked up tight against the bottom of the floor; if any water gets in there, its got no place to go. I was recently chatting with someone who had to re-do their re-done floor over again, because of a tank that was tucked up tight. something leaked from above, and water got down there, and.... I think I'm just going to skip the belly insulation altogether.
now, the walls...I'm still torn. (I was the call-in question on insulation on the VAP a couple of shows back. amazing coincidence that you were the call-in guest on that show!) It seemed like the consensus was "don't bother; just go with the pink, and make sure the holes are blocked so mice don't get in". Certainly would be easier. But I'm thinking, much like the issue of waterproofing the floor--you could say "just make sure the trailer doesn't leak". yeah, right. Certainly, we need to do the best we can, but we all know that at some point, water is going to find its way in. I think the same could be said for critters. At some point, something is going to wiggle loose, a gap will appear, and....
{sigh} decisions, decisions...

(irony: they stock the poly-iso in several sizes up here. Piles of it. its like tap water)
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:39 AM   #415
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I used a similar product called RMAX which is an aluminum backed foam. I used Liquid Nails to adhear it to the floor. I just used several blobs of it. This will leave a small gap between the foam and the floor and I hope this will let any trapped water out. I also did not tape the edges so water would have a place to leave. At some point, you have to stop agonizing over it and do something. I don't know if coating both sides of the wood is a good thing or not. I did find that you end up drilling holes in that newely sealed wood when you put the side wraps and belly trim back on. Now all that hard work sealing the wood is for not. It is hard to guarantee you will never get water in that wood no matter what you do.

Perry
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:50 AM   #416
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Abby's looking great Lance! I can't wait to see your Marmo.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:36 AM   #417
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My Mom and Dad came down to visit for a few days, so I haven't been getting much done on Abby. Yesterday I removed all of the the old pink insulation from under Abby. I hate that stuff.
Today I applied a coat of ESP 155 epoxy from Progressive Epoxy as a sealer/primer to the interior floor. I removed all of the old "weld screws" holding the floor to the frame and drilled new holes and counter bored with a forester bit for new zinc coated elevator bolts. I then brushed and rolled on the epoxy. It is very watery as it is a solvent thinned epoxy. It soaks in very well. When the epoxy was no longer tacky, I installed the new elevator bolts.
Attachment 159389Attachment 159392
I'll sand it down smooth with some 180 and coat it with West System 105/206 epoxy, then fair the gaps and valleys with West epoxy thickened with low density fairing filler to a peanut butter consistency. This is not the cheap or fast way to fair a sub-floor. It is slow and expensive. It is, in my opinion, the best way to prep the sub-floor for sheet flooring. There are many ways to prep a sub-floor for sheet goods. This is the method I use. This is the method that Paul Mayeux, from A&P Vintage Trailer Works turned me on to. He has been using this method for over seven years now and has not had any problems with the Marmoleum cracking, breaking or coming unglued.
Sorry for this late question, but what was the sub-floor surface prep before you applied the epoxy sealer?? Sander? Our '73 has lots of "gunk" from the old linoleum and wondering the best prep device.
Thanks in advance,
Richard and Della
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Old 06-07-2012, 04:54 PM   #418
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Good descriptions, Top, and nice fielding of questions. The depth is appreciated. A worthy thread now bookmarked for this Vintage Kin owner.
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Old 06-07-2012, 05:56 PM   #419
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Chuck-I don't believe it will be an issue. The whole rear half of the floor is all new MGP and it is completely coated with epoxy. I haven't noticed any issues in the year since it has been done.
I don't think that using the pink stuff is a good idea in a TT. It is a compromise of price, performance and installation cost. I tend to lean more towards performance. I do think it is possible to have a trailer that is free of leaks, within reason. It takes good sealant, periodic inspections, constant maintenance and leak tests with a SealTech 430r.

Perry-I looked at the R-Max, but the minimum order was 48 sheets at $20 per sheet. I thought that since it is made here in Texas, I could get a good deal. I guess not. I taped the outer edges with foil tape but not the interior edges. There is a way for water to drain if it were to make its way between the sheets of insulation and the bottom of the sub-floor. I sealed the exposed areas of the bottom with epoxy to make sure the wood will withstand some water exposure.

Paul-Thanks! I can't wait to show her off at the RMVAC rally. Maybe. I probably should sign up and send in some money.

Richard and Della-I sanded the sub-floor with a belt sander before coating it with epoxy. There wasn't any adhesive on the floor. If you have a bunch of gunk, I would try heating it up with a heat gun and scraping off what you can. You may also try some adhesive remover. If you try to sand it off, you may melt the adhesive with the sander and make a bigger mess than you started with.

REDNAX-Thanks very much. I appreciate your kind words. I like to share knowledge, like you.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:53 PM   #420
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I do think it is possible to have a trailer that is free of leaks, within reason. It takes good sealant, periodic inspections, constant maintenance and leak tests with a SealTech 430r.

Paul-Thanks! I can't wait to show her off at the RMVAC rally. Maybe. I probably should sign up and send in some money.
Yes indeed. The 430r is an excellent leak detection system, and it has worked great for several years since inception.

So you finally decided to head to the RMVAC rally ehh? You talked about it, but hadn't committed yet. Hope y'all have a great time.

Steve
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