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Old 05-26-2012, 10:12 PM   #393
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Floor prep

My Mom and Dad came down to visit for a few days, so I haven't been getting much done on Abby. Yesterday I removed all of the the old pink insulation from under Abby. I hate that stuff.
Today I applied a coat of ESP 155 epoxy from Progressive Epoxy as a sealer/primer to the interior floor. I removed all of the old "weld screws" holding the floor to the frame and drilled new holes and counter bored with a forester bit for new zinc coated elevator bolts. I then brushed and rolled on the epoxy. It is very watery as it is a solvent thinned epoxy. It soaks in very well. When the epoxy was no longer tacky, I installed the new elevator bolts.
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I'll sand it down smooth with some 180 and coat it with West System 105/206 epoxy, then fair the gaps and valleys with West epoxy thickened with low density fairing filler to a peanut butter consistency. This is not the cheap or fast way to fair a sub-floor. It is slow and expensive. It is, in my opinion, the best way to prep the sub-floor for sheet flooring. There are many ways to prep a sub-floor for sheet goods. This is the method I use. This is the method that Paul Mayeux, from A&P Vintage Trailer Works turned me on to. He has been using this method for over seven years now and has not had any problems with the Marmoleum cracking, breaking or coming unglued.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:21 PM   #394
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Refer clean up

I took the refer wall off yesterday just to get access to more of the sub floor and get it out of the way from having to cut the Marmo around it. No wonder my refer wasn't cooling too well when it got hotter than 80 degrees outside.
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Those fins aren't going to get much cooling air across them with all that fuzz covering them up. I'm surprised it was cooling at all, actually.
I did a little cleaning. I bet she'll work much better now.
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:11 AM   #395
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Lance, I have a couple questions:
In an effort to save $$, would a butterfly bit be an acceptable substitute for a forester (I would need to by a forester), I will be using elevator bolts on 3/4 exterior plywood?
Once expoxied, how long would you think I could leave the installed plywood exposed to the elements, if at all? I could tilt the frame for run-off. It will be a month or so before I can get the frame under the shell.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:07 AM   #396
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Forstner bit

Hey Baux,
It is actually a forstner bit. I guess my auto correct thinks you can drill with a forester?! They are only about $15-$20. If you don't want to buy one, I can mail you one of mine to use. I'm not sure about using a regular wood bit. I'd think it would bore out the center too much for the 1/4" 20 e-bolts to fit snugly.
If you epoxy the plywood with three coats and use the barrier coat additive and a UV inhibitor, then three coats of polyurethane floor finish, you should be OK with leaving it exposed for a while. I would keep it covered with some heavy plastic sheet.
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Lance, I have a couple questions:
In an effort to save $$, would a butterfly bit be an acceptable substitute for a forester (I would need to by a forester), I will be using elevator bolts on 3/4 exterior plywood?
Once expoxied, how long would you think I could leave the installed plywood exposed to the elements, if at all? I could tilt the frame for run-off. It will be a month or so before I can get the frame under the shell.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:18 PM   #397
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Just listened to you on the Vap, Good job Man!
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:30 PM   #398
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The critical connection point

Happy Memorial day to everyone. I did my weekend BBQ yesterday, so I spent the day at the shop working on Abby.
I applied the Eastwood rust converter on Saturday so today was 48 hours later. I applied two coats of Eastwood rust encapsulator to the frame. The first coat was black and I brushed it on. I then used silver for the second coat. The second coat was sprayed on. Here are a few pics of the critical area of the front of an Airstream. The front hold down plate, crossmember and U channel.
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I cut the corroded flashing off. I taped the edge after I sliced my thumb and bled all over the place. So, like Frank writes about, my blood has been shed on this girl. The rest will all just fall into place.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:49 PM   #399
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The VAP

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Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
Lucky spider? Whatcha drinking buddy cause spidey's aren't lucky

I heard you on the VAP (EVERYONE listen to the latest episode!) Awesome, just awesome! I was like OH MY GOODNESS .... IT's TOP.... and my family was like "Top who?" Geesh.... losers


Congrats buddy and best of luck in the business!
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Hey Lance heard you on the VAP nice one!
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Just listened to you on the Vap, Good job Man!
Thank you for the kind words. I am very happy and honored to have been a guest on the VAP. It was a lot of fun for sure! Hopefully I'll be a guest on a few more shows in the future. I have learned an awful lot from the show. Tim, Colin, Rob and Frank are an awesome bunch of guys that really know a lot about vintage Airstreams. I love to share knowledge, and The VAP is a great resource.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #400
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Weld screw removal

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Originally Posted by hondasub View Post
looks like a nice project you have there and your floor is actualy better than mine at teh moment i am looking for someone to glean me they're knowledge. The bolts that hold the frame to the wall sill through the floor have some sort of square head on them and i dont know what they have underneath the frame. Can anyone tell me what tools i will need to get these off i ask partly due to the fact it doesnt feel like a hex head at teh bottom. could be wrong its happened before
Hondasub,
Sorry that I missed replying to your question earlier.
My method for removing the original weld screws is in post #380. I use vise grip pliers on the square nut. Rock it back and forth until it snaps. Good luck with your project!
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:40 PM   #401
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Top,

I looks like you've got a new neighbor. I just picked up a 73 31' int. and am in the NW Houston burbs.

I came across this thread looking to figure out why the rear bath counters in mine had separated from the walls, and thinking that the angle iron/turnbuckle contraption on the back of the trailer from the frame to the body might be related. Your sag repairs have given me some direction for sure, but Im a bit nervous to dive that far in.

Do you know any members in the Houston area who I might be able to hook up with if and when I hit a snag?
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:09 AM   #402
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Rear end torture device

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Originally Posted by TxBxSx View Post
Top,

I looks like you've got a new neighbor. I just picked up a 73 31' int. and am in the NW Houston burbs.

I came across this thread looking to figure out why the rear bath counters in mine had separated from the walls, and thinking that the angle iron/turnbuckle contraption on the back of the trailer from the frame to the body might be related. Your sag repairs have given me some direction for sure, but Im a bit nervous to dive that far in.

Do you know any members in the Houston area who I might be able to hook up with if and when I hit a snag?
Hey Tx,
I saw the pics of that crazy contraption on your trailer. Looks painful, or painful to look at

There are a few Houstonites Houstoners-Houstonians here on the forums. A few have recently completed, or are in the process of doing shell off restorations. Here is a good thread for you to read.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f305...gun-52872.html

Don't be afraid to dig in. You'll have plenty of help here on the forum.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:18 AM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Top View Post
Happy Memorial day to everyone. I did my weekend BBQ yesterday, so I spent the day at the shop working on Abby.
I applied the Eastwood rust converter on Saturday so today was 48 hours later. I applied two coats of Eastwood rust encapsulator to the frame. The first coat was black and I brushed it on. I then used silver for the second coat. The second coat was sprayed on. Here are a few pics of the critical area of the front of an Airstream. The front hold down plate, crossmember and U channel.
Attachment 159570Attachment 159571
I cut the corroded flashing off. I taped the edge after I sliced my thumb and bled all over the place. So, like Frank writes about, my blood has been shed on this girl. The rest will all just fall into place.
These photos are almost intimidating as you have done an incredible job cleaning up that area. Nice job !!
Richard and Della
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:40 PM   #404
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Fresh floor

Well, after I don't know how many years, Abby has a completely solid floor all the way around.
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I still have to do some filling and fairing. I used 3/4" marine grade plywood coated with two coats of West epoxy for the three patch pieces. They are joined together with a cleat and fastened with screws into a bonding coat of epoxy. I installed the bolts through the U channel after a good dose of TremPro 626 to seal the holes.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:45 AM   #405
Restorations done right
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after a good dose of TremPro 626 to seal the holes.
Attachment 159725
You use 626? Seriously? I suddenly have a newer stronger found love of you Lance. You just stepped into AAA rating!
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #406
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Moving along in the right direction

Yes, Frank. I use the Trempro 626. The latest order I got has it in a gold tube that reads "Trempro/Vulkem". Good stuff. Thanks for the new love and AAA rating. I try to keep it on 13, like you.

I have the front frame all cleaned, repaired, rust converter applied and painted. I hate the pink insulation. This is where it belongs.
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Here are some pics of the frame.
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I have been getting a lot of help from my oldest son. It really helps.
Today I got the insulation attached to the underside of the floor.
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Now to get the belly pan all fastened on and get the rub rail trim installed then seal everything in the U channel except for the factory drain holes.

The Marmoleum arrived last Friday. The glue did not. Some sort of mix up there, but the store got it all squared away. I have been getting Marmoleum from Jim at Eco-Wise in Austin. Really cool place with lots of green building solutions.
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