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Old 05-22-2012, 09:46 AM   #379
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Did you use a hole saw to cut around the c channel bolts? What size if I may ask (only 'cause I think I've got to do the same...)
Looking forward to your work again!
Marc
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:53 PM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Did you use a hole saw to cut around the c channel bolts? What size if I may ask (only 'cause I think I've got to do the same...)
Looking forward to your work again!
Marc
Hey Mark,
I do not use a hole saw to remove the bolts. I Have the belly pan removed from under the front half of the trailer. I grab the nut from above or below with vise grip pliers and rock it back and forth until it breaks in two. Then I take a punch and tap the remainder of the bolt out of the hole. If I have a struggle, I usually can cut the nut off with a die grinder. The vise grip method works for me 90% of the time. The only reason you would need to use a hole saw is if you didn't remove the belly pan. That is not how I replace the sub-floor. I always remove the belly pan to get access to both sides of the U channel bolts. Hope that helps you.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:31 PM   #381
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Quote:
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Did you use a hole saw to cut around the c channel bolts? What size if I may ask (only 'cause I think I've got to do the same...)
Looking forward to your work again!
Marc
I found a FAST way to work around that task. A circular saw set to a cut depth the same as the wood thickness. Plunge cut a small square around each bolt, probably 10 seconds of work per bolt! Lift off the wood, then the strong bolts can be knocked off with an angle grinder.

Minimum effort for maximum distruction...and the wood is still good for a pattern.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:22 PM   #382
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That spider looks serious

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Well, after a few hours this morning I managed to get some work done.
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I even had a lucky spider watching me.
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That spider looks deadly serious....puts the ants I found in our window gasket to shame. You just never know what you will find in an old Airstream and keep the Raid and camera handy just in case.
Sandy
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:47 PM   #383
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That spider looks deadly serious....puts the ants I found in our window gasket to shame. You just never know what you will find in an old Airstream and keep the Raid and camera handy just in case.
Sandy

That's actually a very nice wolf spider specimen! I used to keep them as pets when I was a kid. They build really cool trap doors in the ground. Not aggressive.... I'm not fond of spiders in general but wolf spiders are neat!
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:46 PM   #384
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rotten sub-floor(s)

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A full day working on Abby yesterday. I got the bath removed.
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Attachment 120987
I was happy to see a PO installed an Inteli-Power PD 9160A!
Attachment 120988
Some reptile hatched a brood under the toilet flange!
Attachment 120989
Hey TOP;
I am about to install my "ONE" sheet of sub-flooring under the rear bath - well no bath there anymore ;-) and I'm wondering about the need to use something between the plywood and the frame??? closed cell foam tape???

Any suggestions or recommendations based on your multi-sub-flooring replacement??

Thanks so much and yes a long, long, process ;-)
Richard & Della
'73 Overlander - 27'
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:43 PM   #385
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Hello Richard and Della,
There are a bunch of ways to skin this cat. I'm not sure anything is needed, but if you want to keep the squeaks and creaks to a minimum, I would put something.
Airstream currently uses a Reflectix type bubble foil insulation between the sub-floor and the frame. I have seen this puddle water between the sub-floor and insulation. That isn't good.
You can also paint a thin layer of polyurethane sealant between the sub-floor and frame. Something like 3M 5200, 3M 540, Sonolastic NP-1, Trempro 635
The 3M foam tape might work, however I'd think it may retain water. I don't know for sure.
I believe Wabbiteer used a type of 3M silicone insulation tape.

Good luck
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:35 PM   #386
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Floor covering

Today we took a trip to Austin to select and order the Marmoleum sheet flooring. We chose African Desert. It reminds me of a certain desert in East Africa I had the pleasure of flying around in back in 1994. It exactly matches the color of the floor in the rear half of Abby. Hopefully I'll have the sub-floor prepped and ready to install the Marmoleum when it arrives next week.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:50 PM   #387
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Today we took a trip to Austin to select and order the Marmoleum sheet flooring. We chose African Desert. It reminds me of a certain desert in East Africa I had the pleasure of flying around in back in 1994. It exactly matches the color of the floor in the rear half of Abby. Hopefully I'll have the sub-floor prepped and ready to install the Marmoleum when it arrives next week.
Attachment 159121
Very nice... that's just a little darker than the linoleum we put in our kitchen in the house. 5 years on, I wish we'd chosen your color instead!
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:22 AM   #388
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Lance, I was going to use sheet type in a project and was told 1/4" luan needed to go down first. I thought the guy was trying to fluff the job. Then the next two guys said the same thing. Are you doing this in Abby?
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:04 AM   #389
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Lino sheet sub-floor prep

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Lance, I was going to use sheet type in a project and was told 1/4" luan needed to go down first. I thought the guy was trying to fluff the job. Then the next two guys said the same thing. Are you doing this in Abby?
Frank,
Yes, this will be installed in Abby. I installed sheet Marmo in a 1966 Safari a few months ago. Before I did, I talked with Paul Mayeux and called Forbo Tech support about how to prep the sub-floor. There is mention of using 1/4" underlayment in the instructions, but that is for very un uniform sub-floor. What Paul does is seal the sub-floor with epoxy, then level with epoxy thickened with micro light fairing filler, let cure, hit the high spots with a belt sander. This gives a uniform porosity throughout so the glue will cure uniformly. It has been working for Paul, so that's how I've been doing it with good results so far.
Here are some pics of the process.
Here is the leveling
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Then sealed with epoxy
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Sanded smooth
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Sheet installed
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:37 AM   #390
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I guess the epoxie has the added benefit of sealing the floor where the luan would provide another layer for water to get trapped in. I would think the laun would take a lot less time to do. Both methods achieve the same end result. The laun would add a few more lbs of weight as well. The laun might end up with a smoother appearing floor depending on how OCD you were with the filling and sanding with the epoxie method.

Perry
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:20 AM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
Lance, I was going to use sheet type in a project and was told 1/4" luan needed to go down first. I thought the guy was trying to fluff the job. Then the next two guys said the same thing. Are you doing this in Abby?
Frank & Lance,
I have had sheet Marmoleum installed in many of my clients trailers over the years. The contractor I use has been to "Forbo school" & he suggested that "Ardex" leveling compound be used over the sub floor. This apparently has a slight bit of "give" in it & will allow the floor covering to move slightly when it's going through it's dramatic temperature & humidity shifts normally found in trailers in this part of the country. Although marmoleum is normally "butt" fitted together in home applications (relatively constant temps), they suggested welding the joint together, which is the way they do it in commercial installations. This will also seal the floor joints from water intrusion.
We typically use bondo in all of the subfloor joints & elevator bolt holes, then belt sand it smooth before the Ardex is applied. A variety of adhesives have been used over the years, however due gov't regs, latex adhesive is now used. Several years ago I contracted to have Marmoleum installed in a 2000 19'er that had OSB subfloor. My contractor wouldn't install the product directly over OSB because the latex adhesive, being water based, would cause the OSB to start to break down. We had to install 1/4" plywood over the subfloor (not luan) before they would take on the job.
I have heard of cracking issues on marmoleum jobs in trailers showing up on the sub floor joints, that I believe were caused by either not using Ardex or possibly a more aggresive adhesive. Although this is a wonderful, vintage trailer friendly product (from the asthetic point of view), great care should be taken in it's installation.
Good luck with your installations,
Colin
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:17 AM   #392
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Hey Lance heard you on the VAP nice one!
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