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07-10-2011, 09:08 PM
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#351
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Always learning
Commercial Member

1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,525
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Chuck,
I did put the bumper storage compartment back together temporarily. I haven't finished the belly pan yet. I have been busy camping!
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10-05-2011, 11:54 AM
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#352
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2 Rivet Member 
1973 27' Overlander
Medford
, Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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Sub-floor replacement
Hey Top;
Really was enjoying the dialogs as I am starting the sub-floor replacement of the bathroom (rear, '73 Overlander 27'). You mentioned once taking the inner skin off, which is what I was fearing. I'm guessing that it is necessary as the plywood probably goes completely to the outside of the floor frame????
Any more pics of this process. Your offerings have been great !
Richard
__________________
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10-05-2011, 05:57 PM
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#353
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Always learning
Commercial Member

1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,525
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Della,
It is necessary to remove the lower inner skins to access the bolts that go through the "C" channel, the wooden sub floor and the outriggers. They are very easy to remove. Just have to drill out the pop rivets attaching them to the ribs (formers). If you look back at post #20, picture 7 of post #105 and post #138, you'll see that I drilled out the rivets and peeled the skins forward.
Good luck with your repairs! If you have any more questions, give me a ring sometime. I'm glad to help any way I can.
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10-05-2011, 06:05 PM
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#354
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Rivet Master 

1973 31' Excella 500
1961 30' Sovereign
1947 22' Liner
Durham
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,544
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Make sure you remove your battery before drilling out the exterior rivets holding the lower beltline trim in place.  Just ask Top why.
__________________
1973 Excella 500 31ft Center Bath
1963 Overlander 26 ft
1961 Sovereign 30 ft Custom
1955 Overlander 26 ft
1947 Liner 22 ft.
2010 Ford F450 Crew Cab Dually Diesel
TAC ON-11
Every day is a gift, but does it always have to be a pair of socks.
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10-05-2011, 06:15 PM
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#355
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Always learning
Commercial Member

1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,525
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Thanks for bringing that up!  Actually it was the banana wrap, but yes. Remove the battery from the trailer BEFORE drilling near it! Oops!
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10-05-2011, 06:30 PM
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#356
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Rivet Master 

1973 31' Excella 500
1961 30' Sovereign
1947 22' Liner
Durham
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,544
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That's a visual image I'm never going to forget.  I know the battery needs to be ventilated but not internally. 
Just poking fun of course.
__________________
1973 Excella 500 31ft Center Bath
1963 Overlander 26 ft
1961 Sovereign 30 ft Custom
1955 Overlander 26 ft
1947 Liner 22 ft.
2010 Ford F450 Crew Cab Dually Diesel
TAC ON-11
Every day is a gift, but does it always have to be a pair of socks.
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10-06-2011, 09:25 AM
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#357
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2 Rivet Member 
1973 27' Overlander
Medford
, Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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Thank you two !! I am considering only replacing the street side half of the sub-floor, mainly because the rot seems to be just on that side and also because I can not conceive of how one gets a whole sheet of plywood in to that space and under the "wall plate". What I do not know is whether there is a faming member to attach to somewhere in that area. Any clues????
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10-06-2011, 11:03 AM
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#358
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2 Rivet Member 
1973 27' Overlander
Medford
, Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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sub-floor replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by Top
Della,
It is necessary to remove the lower inner skins to access the bolts that go through the "C" channel, the wooden sub floor and the outriggers. They are very easy to remove. Just have to drill out the pop rivets attaching them to the ribs (formers). If you look back at post #20, picture 7 of post #105 and post #138, you'll see that I drilled out the rivets and peeled the skins forward.
Good luck with your repairs! If you have any more questions, give me a ring sometime. I'm glad to help any way I can.
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Shall I look forward to the bolts between wall, plywood, and outrigger being rusted or frozen?? Also, will I need to remove the belly pan(s) back there to unfasten the plywood from below?
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10-07-2011, 11:14 AM
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#359
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Always learning
Commercial Member

1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,525
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Della,
I'm sure that all the nuts and bolts will be rusted solid. Just grab the nut from below with vise grips and wiggle it back and forth a few times, and they break right off. Yes, you'll have to remove the banana wraps and the belly skin to gain access to them from below.
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02-05-2012, 07:35 PM
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#360
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2 Rivet Member 
1971 31' Sovereign
Watson
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 34
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Great thread. Very educational.
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02-05-2012, 07:40 PM
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#361
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Always learning
Commercial Member

1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,525
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Thank You
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exsys
Great thread. Very educational.
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Thanks so very much! I hope others can share in my very steep learning curve
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02-06-2012, 06:57 AM
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#362
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Rivet Master 
1981 31' Excella II
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,356
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Nice job, it looks better than new. The interior looks new. The floor looks great. I don't think you will have to worry about rot and if it ever leaks you will know where they are.
Is the rest of the interior other than the floor original?
Perry
PS I have not put the belly pan back on mine yet either.
__________________
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02-06-2012, 07:22 AM
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#363
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Always learning
Commercial Member

1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,525
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Thanks Perry,
Yes, She's all original. I even have the original laundry hamper. Sometime I'll be replacing the floor in the front half of the trailer, replace two of the front end cap panels, insulate, replace the broken tambour, replace all the belly pan and polish.
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02-06-2012, 08:37 AM
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#364
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Rivet Master 
1981 31' Excella II
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,356
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For some reason, I thought you had done a shell off on this one. My tambour is missing in the entertainment center which is the biggest piece of tambour in the whole trailer. I don't think I will buy new when that stuff is like $500 a sheet or something like that. The rest of mine works fine after some silicone spray. I am not looking forward to the belly pan. I want to be able to remove mine and am thinking about that one. I also don't want to fill the frame full of holes and weaken it. I am more worried about the holes being a place for rust to start than actual weakening. I have a few places where the vinyl fake wood coating is starting to lift but it is not too bad yet.
Perry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Top
Thanks Perry,
Yes, She's all original. I even have the original laundry hamper. Sometime I'll be replacing the floor in the front half of the trailer, replace two of the front end cap panels, insulate, replace the broken tambour, replace all the belly pan and polish.
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