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Old 04-16-2011, 08:25 PM   #181
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Whooo! That floor is beautiful!! So did you tint the epoxy or something to get in that nice warm orange color? It looks different then the underneath? Home Depot also sells the craft paper that builders put down to protect floors while they work on homes.. I think it's got some post it type sticky to keep it down.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:51 PM   #182
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If you look back to posts from January, you'll se I used water based minwax stain before three coats of epoxy and three coats of Defthane polyurethane floor finish.
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Old 04-16-2011, 11:33 PM   #183
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Nice floor, Trainer of Personnel!
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:41 AM   #184
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Nice floor!
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:56 AM   #185
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Beautiful job. You should be able to float your AS. it will be so watertight. The next person to remove that floor will need dynamite. Sal.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:28 PM   #186
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I just read your thread for the first time. Impressive that you have done so much in a short amount of time. I have also done quite a bit of metal work on my project. Mine is somewhat delayed due to all the road trips my job has taken me in the last few years.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:04 PM   #187
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Thanks Rex, Baseman, Sal and Aerowood.

Aerowood,
I have read all of your thread. You are doing some great work. I have read most of your posts about rivets and sealants. I'd like to have used ProSeal between the rear hold down plate and the exterior skin, but I used 3M 560 polyurethane adhesive sealant. I didn't intend to but a "project" trailer. I was just unknowing at the time. That is why I'm "always learning"!
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:13 PM   #188
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No more Separation!

No more sag. No more rotten wood falling in my eyes. This is truly a solid floor! (well in the back half of the trailer at least!)
I used all stainless hardware. The elevator bolts, hex head bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. I completely covered the hardware in the C channel with 3M 560 adhesive sealant. I drilled three holes through the C channel for drainage. I filled them in with epoxy and re drilled the hole through the epoxy so they are waterproof. I used aluminum plate for the 3/8" bolts that go through the C channel into the main frame rails. I'm sure it will last for another 50 years or so. Here are some pics of the hardware.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:21 PM   #189
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Skin and hold down plate

Here are some pics of the skin under the rear hatch and the .06" stainless hold down plate from inside.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:49 PM   #190
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Nice Job Lance...I'm looking forward to seeing you camp in her really soon.

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Old 04-19-2011, 06:04 PM   #191
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Thanks Steve.

This afternoon I hooked up the electricity so I could run the A/C while working inside. It was very hot and humid here today. I also glued all the drain pipes for the gray and black tanks and did a little MOC (Maintenance Operational Check). Checked. Found OK! It was nice to see 75 gallons of water running out the drain pipe!
I'm brain storming on how to best attach the bumper compartment lid with out creating a dam that holds water on top of the bumper storage lid. I'm thinking of bolting an AL angle between the frame rails and leaving about 1/4" gap for water to drain down below. I'm not too concerned about keeping water out of the bumper storage compartment. I don't plan on putting anything in there that can't get wet.
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:15 PM   #192
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Lance I'm offically jealous now on two counts. One is that your weather is so hot that you need the A/C and the other is that you're so much farther ahead than me and will be camping soon.
Excellent work as usual. The floor looks fantastic.
I have been wondering about the bumper storage compartment as it is really part of the belly pan. If it fills up with water it may leak into the belly and get trapped. I did seal it abundantly with Vulkem and am thinking about drilling some drain holes into the section of the pan that makes up the compartment bottom. I want to do a test and see where the water lies once it gets in before drilling the holes.
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:53 PM   #193
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Question

Chris,
Thanks for the compliments. I'm thinking of having either some louvered slots or some machinery cloth for the bumper storage compartment to drain out of.

Question
Is there any reason that the little red light that comes on when shore power is applied would be wired between the Neutral and the ground? I know it used to work when I had her plugged in. Now it doesn't. I opened the cover and found it is wired like that. I pulled one lead off the N and shoved it up in the L and it came on like it used to.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:58 PM   #194
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Lance what little red light are you talking about?
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:02 PM   #195
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he is talking about the polarity light on the left side of the trailer.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:04 PM   #196
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I thought so but wasn't sure. It should never be on unless the polarity is reversed.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:12 PM   #197
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Red light on, BAD

Thanks guys. I was just reading a thread about that. Now I understand. I guess that when I was plugged in at the house the last time my extension cord modification was the cause. I have a new extension cord now.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:12 PM   #198
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Lance here is the page from my service manual showing how the polarity light is wired and how to trouble shoot it.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:14 PM   #199
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I should read my service manual a little more often I guess
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:25 PM   #200
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Quote:
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I should read my service manual a little more often I guess
Maybe you also need to remodify that extension cord too.
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