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Old 04-07-2006, 11:52 AM   #15
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I think that attaching from the bottom is feasible but not necessarily the best way to do it. The aluminum channel is not all that thick. You might want to consider some sort of toggel bolt. Also if you were to detach the front part of the inner panel above the floor area you want to repair you could make the repair entirely from above without removing the belly pan if you wanted. You could use decking screws through the channel from above into the plywood. They probably would hold better than sheet metal screws into the aluminum channel. If you could get at least some access behind the wall in that area you could still bolt through to below if you remove the banana wrap along the side in that area.

You can tell where the cross members are by looking for the screws or bolts that hold the plywood floor down. The lengthwise frame member is about 14" to 16" in from the side of the trailer. They are spaced right about 5' apart. There are no screws or bolts into them holding the floor down so you can't find them looking that way. One of the old fashioned stud finders that has a magnet in it would be one way to find the metal cross member. I cut out a lot of my old floor using a circular saw set so that the blade depth cut almost all the way through the plywood. That way all I had to watch out for was the screws or bolts.

Malcolm
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Old 04-07-2006, 12:01 PM   #16
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There is a cross member right in the middle of the rotted out section of floor which will be quite convenient. You can kindof see in my picture there are holes on either side of it in the floor. I also want to cut out just far enough to get into the C channel a few inches, this will also give me support. As far as doing it from below, I figured this would give me the added advantage of removing wet insulation (as much as I can) and the ability to splice the new wood with the old with the plywood strips scanning the joint between old and new floor that could be screwed in with wood screws from below.
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:07 PM   #17
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BTW I really like your idea of using a toggle bolt from below and that will probably be the way to go.
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Old 04-08-2006, 07:32 PM   #18
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I ended up taking a panel off and am coming in from the top. Tearing off the belly pan and the bannana strips didn't seem too apealing to me.
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Old 04-08-2006, 08:40 PM   #19
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Any suggestions on how the splice the new plywood to the old especially along the joint that appears closest in the picture. The old plywood in this area will want to sag if it is unsupported.
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Old 04-08-2006, 08:44 PM   #20
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What if you screw a block of wood 2 inches wide to the bottom of the old floor. Have 1 inch under the old floor and 1 inch under the new floor. You could just drop the new piece in and screw it to the block.
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Old 04-08-2006, 09:41 PM   #21
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That sounds like a winner thanks. Man I love deck screws.
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Old 04-08-2006, 09:47 PM   #22
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AZ has a good idea. I think I saw this proposed once before by either malconium or barkingspider. In your case, I think it would work just fine because you are replacing a very small area that doesn't carry a lot of weight, relatively speaking.

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Old 04-11-2006, 03:54 PM   #23
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Sorry - I am a little behind on my forum reading...

Putting a strip of wood under the edges and screwing down from above is exactly the right thing to do. I would suggest a couple of additional points though.

1.) Make sure your strips are plywood so they won't split when you put the screws into them.

2.) Where you have space consider making the strips 3" or 4" wide.

3.) Consider using glue along with the screws to attach the strips.

4.) You can now use decking screws through the channel into the wood. Consider using a non-metalic washer between the screw head and the aluminum channel. I found some that are designed to fit a flat head screw (at Home Depot I think). That will help isolate the disimilar metals from each other.

5.) I think I mentioned this earlier but it would be a good idea not to put any fasteners into the length wise frame member. Airstream seems to avoided this so I am personally inclined to do so as well.

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Old 04-11-2006, 08:00 PM   #24
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Malcom's point number 5. I noticed the same in my camper. The main rails that run from front to rear had no fasteners in them. I can only assume that is by design. These rails are made of much heavier steel than the rest of the trailer.

The glue idea is also a good one. I have a buddy who makes wood furniture in his shop out back. He says the nails are just there to hold things together unitl the glue sets!

Let us know how it's going.

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Old 04-11-2006, 08:05 PM   #25
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I leak tested the window area where I think this water was coming from today with a hose and so far so good. I'm keeping my fingers crossed tonight when it rains.
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:40 PM   #26
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Excella Leak!!!!!

My Excella had a very bad leak. Not able to locate the source, I removed the end plastic panal off the ceiling. Yes, that is a bunch of work. However, I wanted to find the leak and find the leak I did. The front top panel on the roof had no seal between the outer panels and water would leak in the length of the seams on both sides. The water would drip to the wires in the insulation. Travel along the wires (the conduit) and follow the wires to the wall on the road side. Then leak down the channel to the front window also to the floor on the roadside. I mistakenly blamed other sources because the water came out many feet away from the real source. Also, Vista View windows will leak, too. But the water from that point should go straight down to the floor. Not travel as would when you have a roof leak. Once I found and repaired the leaks then I have started, and am still working on, the repair of the floor and related areas. Good luck.
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