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Old 12-03-2010, 06:18 PM   #57
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I'm getting quotes from fabricators now. Anywhere from $1,200 to $1,600 to fabricate and weld a new chassis, and I provide the C channel.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:47 PM   #58
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Hmmm.

Welding class: $150
Welding set-up: $300
Practice materials: $50
Some jigs/clamps: $100


Knowing you could get the skills and tools to do the job yourself for HALF the lowest bid: PRICELESS

(And you'll have a skill you can sell for $65/hr, or less if you prefer, to help other Airstreamers in need - could be a great barterable skill!)
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:41 PM   #59
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Great thought, but I think that this is a little more that I can handle by myself.
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:57 PM   #60
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Lessons learned..

I started this thread about bracing a shell for removal from the chassis. My shell was out of whack because the chassis was 1) bent 2) twisted, and 3) missing most outriggers on one side and that side was sagging (curbside).

So I had to brace the shell twice. Once for the initial removal, and a rebrace once I got the shell up on sawhorses.

Learned (and this is for my particular case):

1) The biggest thing about bracing is not so much to support the shape of the shell.. (It supports itself surprisingly well) it is to support the shell while you are jacking it up and when it is sitting on the sawhorses.
- I used no diagonal bracing.. not necessary.
- 2x4s work fine if you support them near where they are attached to the shell. The first bracing I used 2x6s. I used 5/16 carriage bolts to bolt the boards to the shell hoops. I think that this is a good size (don't forget washers).

2) The biggest pain was and I didn't figure out how to do this out until the re-bracing.. is being able to jack up the shell (bracing) in a way that the jack is not in the way when you then must put the support under the bracing to keep it jacked up.
- The first bracing I had to come up with inventive ways to accomplish this.

3) I didn't have to worry about anchoring the shell so wind wouldn't blow it away. The weight of the shell + decent lateral support on the sawhorses was fine. Of course the wind isn't as bad here as it is other places, I guess.
- leaving the upper part of the inner skin on is helpful in at least 2 ways.. weight and shell support.

4) It is dirty, nasty work. I am so tired of crawling around in the dirt.
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:57 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB View Post
Great thought, but I think that this is a little more that I can handle by myself.
I thought it sounded trivial, compared to what you have done so far. Go for it, dude!
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:06 PM   #62
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Daniel I am exactly where you are right now. I am hopeing to roll the trailer out from under the shell today (in a few hours). You are right on the money about the cribbing. The Shell supports it self pretty good. The jack points are the important parts. Good luck I will be following along. You will meet some great people with alot of advice here. Take it in and use what works for you in your situation. I am going to meet up with a guy I met here. He has a lot of info, I will be shareing ALL of it.
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:03 PM   #63
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I thought it sounded trivial, compared to what you have done so far. Go for it, dude!
Thanks but welds can be tricky. I took welding in high school and remember that a weld can be pretty, but still not very good.
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:05 PM   #64
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Daniel I am exactly where you are right now. I am hopeing to roll the trailer out from under the shell today (in a few hours). You are right on the money about the cribbing. The Shell supports it self pretty good. The jack points are the important parts. Good luck I will be following along. You will meet some great people with alot of advice here. Take it in and use what works for you in your situation. I am going to meet up with a guy I met here. He has a lot of info, I will be shareing ALL of it.
Read your blog and couldn't help but laugh. Pretty nasty work, huh? I'm looking forward to seeing what you will be doing. Awesome.
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:45 PM   #65
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Read your blog and couldn't help but laugh. Pretty nasty work, huh? I'm looking forward to seeing what you will be doing. Awesome.
Haha I laugh when I'm not freaking out. It can be pretty overwhelming, just try to focus on one task at a time. I met up with a guy I met here. He has a 65 globetrotter, got some pretty great ideas!
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:34 PM   #66
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Well, I turned the old chassis over to a fabricator. They came and picked it up today. Said it would take a week or so. Cost $2,300. Labor and materials. All made out of C5x6.7 C channel. We'll see how it turns out.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:24 PM   #67
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Just in case anyone is interested, I emailed Airstream service and what they use for the chassis frames today is 10 ga. 2" x 5" tube.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:24 PM   #68
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Hi Daniel B

.1406"X2" X 5" X sounds light for a 31' trailer.

for what lenght trailer was this?
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:11 PM   #69
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I didnt ask.. here is the email. The guy's email is rmcneeley@airstream.com

Daniel,

We use a 10 GA 2" X 5" tube today.

Randy
Airstream Customer Support.
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Airstream chassis metal

Chris,

I was hoping that you could maybe answer this question. I've been
looking and looking but no luck.

I have a 1974 Excella and am going to have a new chassis fabricated.
I am wondering what type of C channel was/can be used.
The local steel places sell standard C5x6.7 and C5x9 C channel, but I
see that the c channel used on the original chassis is quite light/thin.

I'm already on my way to using C5x6.7 because that is what is available.

Any information is appreciated.

Thanks
Daniel
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:53 PM   #70
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The moment of truth approaches. I have to decide now on subfloor material. Good quality, regular 3/4 plywood, sealed up really good.. mistake?
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